132k5 Help needed to adjust clearance between needle and hook

[Damas]

It's me again. I could not resist and brought home that old lady from 1925. I found very few litterature on 132k5. I have a 132k10 so I have been able to compare and there's very little difference between them.

Hook and shuttle are different, even if based on the same system.

I am having a hard time with it. I followed the attached, in order to time the machine and I have been able to moove the hook so it meets the needle at the right place, on the right time.

But, needle is too close from hook and is pushed every time the hook is passing by. I need to move it to the right in order to have enough clearance between needle and hook. I just can not figure out how to do that.

I can move it to the left, but I did not found a way to move it to the right. English is not my mother tongue and the following instructions aren't clear enough for me to succeed...

Can someone here help me ?

[CowboyBob]

If you loosen screw #4 you should be able to push the bushing marked #3 to the right.

[Damas]

Thank you @CowboyBob, I'll try that !

[Damas]

OK, I gave it a try and succesfully removed the bobbin case retainer ratchet, and that allow me to access to screw #4. Bu once untight, nothing moves...

I don't know what to do next. I have gently tried to tap on it in order to unlock things but nothing moves... And I am scared to bend something if I go harder on it

Is it supposed to slide, or unscrew ? I don't know how to move this bushing...

[Constabulary]

I think you have to remove the feed dog holder bar and the hook and then tap the bushing to the right IF it has no collar on the left side (not sure).

[Damas]

Dear @Constabulary, thank you for your help. I have done as you say and it does not help, that bushing still won't move. I put plenty of WD-40 on it, I used a brass tube to tap on it, no success.

There is no collar on the left, no collar on the right, appart from the one at the other hand of the shaft, near the gears, see pic. But I believe this one is to prevent the shaft to move to the right.

There is the shaft end, with the bushing once the hook is removed.

That's the other end of the shaft, with a collar

That's the right side of the bushing

[Constabulary]

Then I think the bushing is gummed or rusted in place (you never know) and you have to apply heat (hot air) with a heat gun for a while (big bushing embedded in quite some cast iron so it may take some time), a gas blow torch may work better but will burn the paint. Dont know if you have a larger splint driver so you could tap the bushing around the shaft somethings a gentle hammer strike will do the job but do not damage the bushing!

I had to adjust the bushing on my 108w20 when I installed a new hook but in just the opposite direction.

https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/79339-singer-108w20-my-new-binder-setup/?do=findComment&comment=528295

 

 

Edited May 10, 2022 by Constabulary

[RockyAussie]

Why not just sand a little off the back of the hook now you have it off?

[Damas]

@Constabulary Thanks, I am not sure I'll be able to apply heat in a good way, I'll be afraide to over heat. I did use a larger splint among all my different atempt, unfotunately with no luck...

@RockyAussie That's definitely the easiest solution and I thank you for providing it ! I will use it in last resort because I don't feel very confortable with the idea of altering an oem part

[RockyAussie]

13 minutes ago, Damas said:

@Constabulary Thanks, I am not sure I'll be able to apply heat in a good way, I'll be afraide to over heat. I did use a larger splint among all my different atempt, unfotunately with no luck...

@RockyAussie That's definitely the easiest solution and I thank you for providing it ! I will use it in last resort because I don't feel very confortable with the idea of altering an oem part

You worry to much. The bushing is there for the shaft to run in not for the hook in any way. Even if you ground it on an angle and did a butchers job it would not matter as long as you get the clearance your looking for. It should not be touching the bush anyway.

[Constabulary]

There is so much cast iron you will not overheat it with a heat gun, not even even with a gas blow torch.... you don´t want it "red glowing" just hot enough that the bushing can break free when you tap it.

Is there probably a 2nd screw holding the bushing?

[shoepatcher]

May be a second screw holding the bushing C but should not be.  In my opinion, the bushing should be flush with the right side of the cast piece it is in.  Looks like it can go about 1/8" from left to right!

glenn

[Damas]

Sorry for late answer, I have been away for a few days. So I compared both machines and the bushing is moving on my 132k10, in both direction, when gently taping on it, once screw #4 is loose.

There isn't any second screw. The second hole is where comes the bobbin case retainer ratchet I had to remove in first place in order to access screw #4.

Both machines are identical twins for this mechanism. So my guess is @Constabulary is right, probably some rust I will have to stress with heat to unlock that bushing. I'll try that and keep you informed.