Stitch size

[vortec1]

Hey All,

New here and new to leather work but great to be here!! I’m basically diving into this with what I have learned on YouTube. I probably should not have done it this way but I bought a a leather tool kit and a stitch kit Without realizing there are different sizes to the thread so my question is what size thread do I use if I wanna do a gun holster and sow on cartridge loops  . I’m using 8 to 9 ounce veg tan for the belt and I’m using 4 to 5 ounce veg tan for the cartridge loops. With the tools I ordered they’ve got the different stitch hole punch’s for the various different number of holes so are they pretty much a standard size. I didn’t go expensive on my tools because I want to make sure I like doing this and will upgrade later but I have most of what I need .Thanks in advance!!

[Matt S]

There's both a functional and an aesthetic element to deciding stitch spacing. I come from a background in the English saddlery tradition (though I'm no saddler) and prefer fine stitching -- starting point is 8SPI (3mm spacing) with 18/3 linen thread in a slanted, non-grooved stitch made with a diamond awl. Either single-needle back-stitch or two-needle saddle stitch. Anything coarser is for very heavy or rough-and-ready use. Western saddlery tends to be somewhere around 6-7SPI (4mm spacing) as standard, a chunkier thread (say 18/5 linen) and may or may not be grooved by default. The modern fashion is chunky synthetic thread at very wide spacing, often 4SPI (6mm spacing) or wider and using round holes, all because the results are easier/faster but to the detriment of longevity, strength and (IMHO) good looks.

The general rule is that the thicker the total thickness of leather you're sewing the wider your stitches are spaced, and so the thicker thread you use.

When stitching across a strap every stitch is a weakness (like when they perforate paper for tearing off a coupon) and is generally best avoided. Where it can't be avoided (like a cartridge loop) it's best to keep the stitches as widely spaced as good design allows -- maybe 4-5 stitches per inch (5-6mm spacing).  Alternatively you can use a rivetted or a laced style of cartridge loop to avoid stitching altogether.

[tsunkasapa]

I generally sew my holsters and sheaths @ 6 SPI. As to thread, I use either 3 or 5 ply linen. I have no idea what that is in MM, I don't play the metric game.

[vortec1]

Thanks for the responses !! At least now I have a better idea of what to get. I’ll try it on some scrap pieces first. It’s going to be a western but also functional for hunting but somewhat 1860’s period correct except the Chicago screws. 

[johnnydb]

The only thing not mentioned is the decorative stitching....like crossover stitches that put little "x" all down a seam or the "baseball" type stitch thT makes little  "v" out of the stitches....

Then there's decorative edge stitches that produce nice edges to your work.  (Usually done with sinew but not always)

Again....all a matter of taste. Style. Functionality. 

Kinda like the question:

What flavor of bread is best for a ham sandwich?

 

It's all a matter of taste....just done whine about the mayo, mustard or cheese. 

[Tequila]

You’re ambitious taking on such a big build as your first one.  If you are like me you have an idea of how you want something look, but maybe not knowledge or skills to get it that way.  So, don’t get discouraged if everything is not perfect, as long as you like it that’s all that counts.  As you gain experience with the tools and techniques to use them and figure out what type of things you enjoy making it will eventually all come together.  You’ll be the toughest critic of your work.