cylinder machine seat/foot pedals

[Treesner]

hey guys I recently got a artisan sewing machine and opted for the pedastol style table as I thought it would take up less space in the shop 

however I'm finding it a little awkward. I can't really get a chair close to it because the legs hit the base..

I was short of thinking about cutting a notch in the base so the chair leg could squeeze in but I noticed that if I sit non the edge of my chair to get closer to the machine then my feet are in an awkward position like the pedal would need to be moved back 

I wonder if I could drill new holes and mount the machine closer to the edge of the table?

 

the other thing that I dont understand is do you use your left foot as the sewing and right as the presser foot lifters? or do you switch feet? 
ideally it would just have the side leg thing like some of the other machines have but I'm not sure that could be fitted or not. 
could I switch the pedals so left was presser and right was speed? I feel like I need my right to have more control over the speed where left is just up/down so finessee does not matter 

 

[Treesner]

 

this is what the u table looks like 

Edited June 23, 2022 by Treesner

[Treesner]

this is what I think would make it better

 

Edited June 23, 2022 by Treesner

[dikman]

I built my own table , a heavily modified "standard" table, and placed the lifter pedal on the left, as you say it feels more natural. But it was a lot of work! You can't just swap pedal positions because you'll need to make up new linkages for the lifter.

Looking at the base of your machine, moving the upright towards the front and shifting the pedal assembly towards the back might make it more comfortable but I'm not sure if it would affect the overall balance of the machine on the base. Moving the head assembly is possible but you'll probably have to extend the belt slot and drill a new hole for the lifter chain, and it probably still won't be close enough for you.

 

[RockyAussie]

I found I ran into the same problem with the base and by moving the whole lot forward on the stand leg it worked for me. I have not as yet put in 2 front bolts. The pedal axle on yours is different and may present a problem doing the same thing but moving it forward did help a lot for me.

[dikman]

There ya go! Guess it's true, great minds think alike.

[Wizcrafts]

I have a U shaped table for my Techsew 2700. It is raised up as high as it will go so I can sit on a barstool when I use it. Otherwise, it would work fine if lowered.

My machine also has a foot pedal to lift the feet.I use my right foot to lift and my left foot to control the speed. I do this on all of my machines, even the ones with a knee lever (right knee->right).

[RockyAussie]

8 hours ago, Treesner said:

 

this is what the u table looks like 

This video should be checked out before thinking of using a U shaped table.

 

[dikman]

Good video, Brian, the only thing different I would have done is mount the speed control unit just underneath the table, rather than on the edge where it might catch on something. 

I was wondering what the baseplate was made of, that would make for a pretty heavy table!

[RockyAussie]

5 hours ago, dikman said:

I would have done is mount the speed control unit just underneath the table, rather than on the edge where it might catch on something. 

THAT is very true and I brought that up with them. It only takes a bit of angle tucked in under the table and that is how I believe all models will now be done

 

5 hours ago, dikman said:

I was wondering what the baseplate was made of, that would make for a pretty heavy table!

. Steel at about 12mm thick. Yeah it is heavy and stable which is good I reckon. Not so great on casters with an uneven floor though. I have to get it onto the proper feet provided when I get space to move it into my factory sorry I meant studio........whatever.

[shoepatcher]

One of the biggest problem with  cylinder arm machines mounted on tables with cut outs under them is arm clearance.  The pedestal  stand  cures some of those problems but!!    First, I have never liked the metal pedestal  stands that they mount so many machines on.   The castors raise the machine up to high for it to be comfortable when  using the foot pedals.  Second, the pedestal arm is to far back on the stand.  You are leaning over to sew things way more than you should.  The pedestal should be 4" closer to the sewer on the base.  Third, when they mount them, the base of the machine should come right up to the left edge of the table top. Otherwise, you loose arm space for sewing on the arm. 

I mounted my DA669 on an off the arm table myself.  Set it up like I wanted it.  No complaints.  With thing to note:  With the machine mounted on an off the arm table, you may want to get a slide on flat table attachment for those items you will be sewing that need a table around the arm.

[Treesner]

3 hours ago, shoepatcher said:

One of the biggest problem with  cylinder arm machines mounted on tables with cut outs under them is arm clearance.  The pedestal  stand  cures some of those problems but!!    First, I have never liked the metal pedestal  stands that they mount so many machines on.   The castors raise the machine up to high for it to be comfortable when  using the foot pedals.  Second, the pedestal arm is to far back on the stand.  You are leaning over to sew things way more than you should.  The pedestal should be 4" closer to the sewer on the base.  Third, when they mount them, the base of the machine should come right up to the left edge of the table top. Otherwise, you loose arm space for sewing on the arm. 

I mounted my DA669 on an off the arm table myself.  Set it up like I wanted it.  No complaints.  With thing to note:  With the machine mounted on an off the arm table, you may want to get a slide on flat table attachment for those items you will be sewing that need a table around the arm.

glad I'm not the only one annoyed with this setup

can you send some photos I dont know what an off the arm table is

[Treesner]

18 hours ago, dikman said:

I built my own table , a heavily modified "standard" table, and placed the lifter pedal on the left, as you say it feels more natural. But it was a lot of work! You can't just swap pedal positions because you'll need to make up new linkages for the lifter.

Looking at the base of your machine, moving the upright towards the front and shifting the pedal assembly towards the back might make it more comfortable but I'm not sure if it would affect the overall balance of the machine on the base. Moving the head assembly is possible but you'll probably have to extend the belt slot and drill a new hole for the lifter chain, and it probably still won't be close enough for you.

 

 

I think I can actually just switch the throttle bar and get a longer chain to switch pedals

I modded it and the presser foot works at a diagonal like this 

 

[Treesner]

18 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

I found I ran into the same problem with the base and by moving the whole lot forward on the stand leg it worked for me. I have not as yet put in 2 front bolts. The pedal axle on yours is different and may present a problem doing the same thing but moving it forward did help a lot for me.

 

 

hey thanks I didnt think about just moving the entire pole, that would probably be the easiest

however I did measure and I have to sit 14" closer to get where I want, if I move my post all the way to the edge that would get me 8" closer and I'm not sure if having it way over on that edge would be out of balance or not, at least the motor is mounted behind the machine to help counter weight it I guess 

I think I can cut the post on the pedals down to make it narrower and squeeze in more 

only thing is, drilling through this super rethink steel plate is going to be hard with a hand drill I bet!

 

[RockyAussie]

Yeah, I don't think I would like to have the weight that far forward. It would make it a fair bit more shaky I reckon. If you can get rid of the castors would be good. Lower and more stable and less clearance problems.

 

[shoepatcher]

With the castors raising up the machine,  it may be shaky.  Another reason to remove the castors and replace with  short fat bolts.

glenn

Edited June 25, 2022 by shoepatcher

[RockyAussie]

10 hours ago, shoepatcher said:

With the castors raising up the machine,  it may be shaky.  Another reason to remove the castors and replace with  short fat bolts.

glenn

I am not sure with all the different dealers but the Cowboy ones here come with bolts with rubber feet along with the castors. At least that is how they send them to me.

[toxo]

There's a simple answer to this. I use a swivel stool on castors that allow me to raise up for my cylinder arm and lower for my flatbed.

This type has no castors so will slide under the base. Simps.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125248155123?hash=item1d295f2df3:g:rLUAAOSwL0piT7ML&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4GwJQk6FGOmIyaCJZTSSwzn6DPcgicTfxlr2vLvoGyWBGeGZEmQeB%2BD7QTRJC3CcM0Gg%2BoQOy9j9DojZLkT2sNqRjArlNMlcLXU4rrEthu24vHYCvQhU4CHyQbhcVCtgIcBu%2B0zv7eAsBqVhgXaQKZkwDhCzDaFqyIWouGYQ6n1r3nW4nQQkBwZQheFuCRuLnhb%2Bu7%2F4%2FxO%2BHPkbD%2BrQOzlpJ0Y3%2BIxwyLpM8%2BuMo2iQwj4S%2BCSuNqAgAXN84KkrBm4ApBUpvXUUCbPGyea05u9mXfRHgQFvbOD8wyrlhHAK|tkp%3ABFBMmuWb-7Ng

[Treesner]

On 6/26/2022 at 5:31 AM, toxo said:

There's a simple answer to this. I use a swivel stool on castors that allow me to raise up for my cylinder arm and lower for my flatbed.

This type has no castors so will slide under the base. Simps.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125248155123?hash=item1d295f2df3:g:rLUAAOSwL0piT7ML&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4GwJQk6FGOmIyaCJZTSSwzn6DPcgicTfxlr2vLvoGyWBGeGZEmQeB%2BD7QTRJC3CcM0Gg%2BoQOy9j9DojZLkT2sNqRjArlNMlcLXU4rrEthu24vHYCvQhU4CHyQbhcVCtgIcBu%2B0zv7eAsBqVhgXaQKZkwDhCzDaFqyIWouGYQ6n1r3nW4nQQkBwZQheFuCRuLnhb%2Bu7%2F4%2FxO%2BHPkbD%2BrQOzlpJ0Y3%2BIxwyLpM8%2BuMo2iQwj4S%2BCSuNqAgAXN84KkrBm4ApBUpvXUUCbPGyea05u9mXfRHgQFvbOD8wyrlhHAK|tkp%3ABFBMmuWb-7Ng

oh yeah a stool like that would be closer for sure 

[nylonRigging]

On 6/23/2022 at 12:25 PM, Treesner said:

hey guys I recently got a artisan sewing machine and opted for the pedastol style table as I thought it would take up less space in the shop 

however I'm finding it a little awkward. I can't really get a chair close to it because the legs hit the base..

I was short of thinking about cutting a notch in the base so the chair leg could squeeze in but I noticed that if I sit non the edge of my chair to get closer to the machine then my feet are in an awkward position like the pedal would need to be moved back 

I wonder if I could drill new holes and mount the machine closer to the edge of the table?

the other thing that I dont understand is do you use your left foot as the sewing and right as the presser foot lifters? or do you switch feet? 
ideally it would just have the side leg thing like some of the other machines have but I'm not sure that could be fitted or not. 
could I switch the pedals so left was presser and right was speed? I feel like I need my right to have more control over the speed where left is just up/down so finessee does not matter 

 

 

I understand exact what you saying . I got that exact stand on a machine setup . I windup straddling the left front castor wheel and working both peddles with R-Foot .
The stand is quality, but user friendly/ergonomics is lacking for sure .
.

[shoepatcher]

It truly is.  Stand could be made so much better.  Not ergo friendly in my opinion.  I came up with a way to motorize a 29K or Adler 30 class on the the treadle stand that is fairly easy to do.  Only part you have to remove is the metal or wooden Pittman arm.   It takes using the machine on a set up to come up with a better set up.

glenn

[dikman]

3 hours ago, nylonRigging said:

 

I understand exact what you saying . I got that exact stand on a machine setup . I windup straddling the left front castor wheel and working both peddles with R-Foot .
The stand is quality, but user friendly/ergonomics is lacking for sure .
.

That's exactly what I was doing! Hence my Heath Robinson mod to swap pedals.

[lambchop]

This is what i use on sume of my machines.  From Mc Master carr.

C

1"

150

1 3/16"

1 1/8"

Ball Up, Ball Down

__

2 3/4"

2"

__

2

7/32"

2 3/16"

Not Rated to 400°

5674K14

8.42

[toxo]

I find that as much as I'd like to get closer, I have to stay back in order to keep my foot flat on the treadle to toe down/heel down.

@lambchop ???

[RockyAussie]

On 7/4/2022 at 3:19 AM, lambchop said:

This is what i use on sume of my machines.  From Mc Master carr.

C

1"

150

1 3/16"

1 1/8"

Ball Up, Ball Down

__

2 3/4"

2"

__

2

7/32"

2 3/16"

Not Rated to 400°

5674K14

8.42

Is this a balls up ?