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Two Different Results - Hand Stitching

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Hello,

Been practising my hand/saddle stitching and it seems to be coming along. watched Neil Armitage's, Ian Atkinsons, JH Leather and others several times, always looking for more to watch and learn from. Maybe I will get Al's book too.

One thing that I"m trying to understand is does the leather type affect the stitch? I think the answer is yes, but...

I'm using KS Blade 3.85mm with 0.6mm Ritza Tiger. Leathers are both 3mm total thickness (two 1.5mm glued together). Difference is the leathers - veg tan on the left is from Tandy and the brown leather is that Wanderings leather you can get three sheets of off Amazon (newbie move on my part...). When I look at the stitches and how they have laid out, the one on the brown leather looks what I wanted while the one on veg, not so much. I did the same technique from what i can tell, same cast, etc on both, yet two different looks. is it solely the leather? should I get a different sized thread (thicker, thinner)? any help would be appreciated here. Thank you!

image.png.c3e3682d227c6d133a6c9db9f08113ef.pngimage.png.6f48ea7448fb1765befe131c51ad0a68.png

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Is the one on the right the front, and the other the back?  With a saddle stitch, the front side is slanted from the 10 o:clock position to 4 o:clock.  Your one on the left is opposite--8 to 2.  

LK_00589.JPG

Edited by mike02130
punctuation

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1 hour ago, mike02130 said:

Is the one on the right the front, and the other the back?  With a saddle stitch, the front side is slanted from the 10 o:clock position to 4 o:clock.  Your one on the left is opposite--8 to 2.  

LK_00589.JPG

no, it's two different pieces (the image on the right/brown leather is the front, the image on the left is the back)... sorry for the confusion.

what gets me is the resulting difference, so i can only think it's the leather

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It looks to me like you stitched the two pieces in different directions.

when I compare the stitch holes that I can see punched.

so I’m thinking you are seeing one back side and one front side.

Joel

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Yes, it's correct. The temper of the leather, the weight of the leather, and hole size/shape and thread thickness will have an impact on the stitching. Like a soft leather will be more sensitive to difference in tension, and a difference in tension will result in different look on the stitch. Some firm thicker leathers will not be that picky about tension or tension angle difference. When you stitch really thin and soft leather then both tension and tension angles becomes very important, just a small change in tension or angle will change how the stitch look. To make it even more complicated, if one side is a soft leather and the other side is firm, you might have to use different tension on either side. 

A tip, if you start a project make an extra piece of the same leathers and do a stitching test run first.

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