First Formed Holster

[rktaylor]

Here's my first formed holster. I need to finish the edges and oil it, but I am anxious for a critique. Give it to me straight and full strength. Thanks, 

Randy

[doubleh]

Looks good so far. Really smooth, shiny edges make a project.

[JLSleather]

Well, ... okay -

I like the stitchin', and the clean leather.  And the way the muzzle is covered/protected. Thumbs up all that. 

That said, I like to see the stitch lines come in closer, as that WILL loosen up over time, basically back to the stitching. So, no thumbs up there.   Just a tip fer later, when you closer-in the sttich lines, you'll want to create a site channel for the front site to clear easily.  Glocks are quite box-y shaped, square corners and sharp turns, so I'm including a pic of a Glock holster might show what I mean with less words.  This is a 19, so not exactly same model but basically same gun but shorter.

Yer sewing foot pressure is a bit heavy, leaving a footprint from the presser foot.  This is easily avoided..  I coverd that in other articles on this site.

And I'm not following the idea on the slots - why those angles?  Does that make it sit on your belt the way you like it?

 

Edited December 28, 2022 by JLSleather

[Dwight]

Yep . . . JLS covered pretty much my comments:  

Loose stitch lines . . . 

Some kind of oddball positioning of the belt slots . . . 

But he left out the part about the  backside of the holster.   There needs to be leather separating the wearer from the weapon.  Leather feels better against the body than does Glock, Colt, S&W or any of the others. 

Another thing I do . . . I turn my back piece so the flesh side is against the customer.  Makes the holster stay in place better . . . and by showing hair side . . . the holster looks better in my book.

May God bless, Dwight

[rktaylor]

Thanks for the comments and suggestions. Back to the shop for me. Are the stitch lines close enough on the top? I can tell what you mean along the bottom. I think I need to get it formed better before I sew it. Maybe that will help.

I am also not sure what you mean by the site channel.

14 hours ago, JLSleather said:

you'll want to create a site channel for the front site to clear easily.

Thanks again,

Randy

 

[chuck123wapati]

44 minutes ago, rktaylor said:

Thanks for the comments and suggestions. Back to the shop for me. Are the stitch lines close enough on the top? I can tell what you mean along the bottom. I think I need to get it formed better before I sew it. Maybe that will help.

I am also not sure what you mean by the site channel.

Thanks again,

Randy

 

yup what they said, i will add your forming is great!!!!

tape something to your pistol from the back sight to the front sight so a channel is created when you mold it. I usually use bamboo skewer sticks or a thin strip of leather about the same size as the front sight.

[rktaylor]

I think I made some improvements, but still have a lot to learn. The stitch lines are definitely closer.  Wonky belt slots adjusted. Thanks for sharing knowledge. 8 oz HO leather with 2 coats of neatsfoot oil and a coat of resolene.

Randy

[Simplejack1985]

I'd carry it. Good looking holster. 

[rktaylor]

2 hours ago, Simplejack1985 said:

I'd carry it. Good looking holster. 

Thanks, 

Randy

[chuck123wapati]

oh yea now your talkin!! 

[JLSleather]

You are - as some would say - now spitting the big drops

Tha's a nice color yer gittin' there, too.

Unless you got skinny fingers, might clear the area under the grip just a little more (I usually aim at about 5/8" between the grip and the leather at the top of the grip area, but give er take).

Fer a site channel, I use a wooden dowel just a tad higer than the front site, and then I whittle it down ta nuthin just before the port (so it ramps down to the slide by the front of the port).  Here's a couple pics might show ya the site channel thing.  HIGHER than the front site, all this "channel" does it keep your front site from becoming a GOUGE to your holster and a BRAKE to your pull.

Oh, and I think you'll find you don't want to be too aggressive on molding in the eject port.  If you like the LOOK of that, then just mold it deep and then push it back up part of the way.  When it hardens good, you'll see what I mean.

[rktaylor]

Thanks for the comments and suggestions. If it gets to be too much time before the next one, I may forget. I appreciate learning from everyone here. 

Randy

[AzShooter]

You are doing a great job.  I too like the color and finish.  You'll get better on every holster you make so take your time as you are learning.

[Hags]

Very nice work! 

[rktaylor]

15 hours ago, AzShooter said:

You are doing a great job.  I too like the color and finish.  You'll get better on every holster you make so take your time as you are learning.

Thanks. I'm not sure I want to make a career of this, but it's a nice diversion from making tack.

12 hours ago, Hags said:

Very nice work! 

Thanks Hags. I've studied a lot of your posts. Don't be surprised to see me post something that looks like yours. 

Randy

[Hags]

No worries Randy. Pm me if you have any questions.  Looks like you're on the right path!

[rktaylor]

On 12/31/2022 at 8:45 PM, Hags said:

No worries Randy. Pm me if you have any questions.  Looks like you're on the right path!

Thanks, 

Randy

[Gunfitters]

A full combat grip should be obtainable on the piece while still in the holster. You don’t want to be shifting your grip during the draw stroke. Hopefully the situation will resolve without having to clear leather. Roy Baker pancake style holsters tend to have a natural sight track due to the “sandwich” space but I’d still put a sight filler to block against like a formed dowel.  With wrap around Askins style holsters a sight track is a must.  If I use a reinforced top band piece I try to stop it parallel to the frame rail so my trigger finger has something to index along side.

[BigBore]

Nice work!

[rktaylor]

I appreciate the new comments. I don't make many holsters, so it seems like every one is the first one. 

Randy