Danne Report post Posted January 5, 2023 So as some of you guys know I make mostly watch straps as a hobby. With different construction methods, when making a durable strap in layers, sometimes I use reinforcement but need to add a middle layer or add leather to the top layer (as example if I would use a exotic leather that is around 0.5mm) then I don't need to add it for durability, since I have reinforcement, but for the thickness of the strap, and I need a soft leather. Other times I want to make a thick strap, where it make sense to reinforce the construction with leather and no synthetic reinforcement, then I need a strong leather. It's calf crust I'm looking for, or for some of these maybe kipskin. 1. A really soft calf/kip but still with a "tight" grain so it's possible to shape with a skiving knife for padding (So for example a tumbled calf, or a leather like Perlinger Odessa (shrunken calf) will not work, because it will be hard to shape it for a round padding. 2. A chrome tanned calf crust that is more firm. I use a vegetable tanned calf crust today, but I think there will be chrome tanned versions that are stronger. 3. Really soft split leather, still need good quality, veg tan or chrome tan doesn't matter (going to use where I need to add thickness to leather, but not make it that much firmer, and no need to add durability) Please read this: I appreciate all tips, but I need to know the tannery and product, because if something works for me, I need to be able to source it again somewhere, and that seller might not be around anymore, and also please don't make this thread a discussion why I need certain leather types for my constructions, as always I'm willing to discuss this if people are interested, but then pm me, and we can discuss, and if more people seems interested in that, we can discuss that in another thread. Also I know I can use microfiber (Like TecnoGI and LuigiCarnevali) for some of these things, and I have a lot of these materials in different weights and firmess. But I don't want to use them for watch straps, for these things I want leather. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArkieNewbie Report post Posted January 5, 2023 I have never used any of these. Just what I found available. https://maverickleathercompany.com/product/haas-french-calf-burgundy/ https://maverickleathercompany.com/product/italian-deluxe-calf-brown/ https://www.buckleguy.com/horween-mlb-baseball-glove-leather-panel-tan-multiple-sizes/?sku=HW-BS-LP12x12-555-TAN&gclid=CjwKCAiAh9qdBhAOEiwAvxIok0noRHNNc1QC-kY42eBxPWkucnNafY03su-Mb9pH0pAk7UuCljQ0ShoCBqIQAvD_BwE https://waterhouseleather.com/product/vegetable-tanned_leather_calfskin_kip/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Danne Report post Posted January 5, 2023 5 minutes ago, ArkieNewbie said: I have never used any of these. Just what I found available. https://maverickleathercompany.com/product/haas-french-calf-burgundy/ https://maverickleathercompany.com/product/italian-deluxe-calf-brown/ https://www.buckleguy.com/horween-mlb-baseball-glove-leather-panel-tan-multiple-sizes/?sku=HW-BS-LP12x12-555-TAN&gclid=CjwKCAiAh9qdBhAOEiwAvxIok0noRHNNc1QC-kY42eBxPWkucnNafY03su-Mb9pH0pAk7UuCljQ0ShoCBqIQAvD_BwE https://waterhouseleather.com/product/vegetable-tanned_leather_calfskin_kip/ Thank you, I check the links. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nstarleather Report post Posted January 5, 2023 46 minutes ago, Danne said: So as some of you guys know I make mostly watch straps as a hobby. With different construction methods, when making a durable strap in layers, sometimes I use reinforcement but need to add a middle layer or add leather to the top layer (as example if I would use a exotic leather that is around 0.5mm) then I don't need to add it for durability, since I have reinforcement, but for the thickness of the strap, and I need a soft leather. Other times I want to make a thick strap, where it make sense to reinforce the construction with leather and no synthetic reinforcement, then I need a strong leather. It's calf crust I'm looking for, or for some of these maybe kipskin. 1. A really soft calf/kip but still with a "tight" grain so it's possible to shape with a skiving knife for padding (So for example a tumbled calf, or a leather like Perlinger Odessa (shrunken calf) will not work, because it will be hard to shape it for a round padding. 2. A chrome tanned calf crust that is more firm. I use a vegetable tanned calf crust today, but I think there will be chrome tanned versions that are stronger. 3. Really soft split leather, still need good quality, veg tan or chrome tan doesn't matter (going to use where I need to add thickness to leather, but not make it that much firmer, and no need to add durability) Please read this: I appreciate all tips, but I need to know the tannery and product, because if something works for me, I need to be able to source it again somewhere, and that seller might not be around anymore, and also please don't make this thread a discussion why I need certain leather types for my constructions, as always I'm willing to discuss this if people are interested, but then pm me, and we can discuss, and if more people seems interested in that, we can discuss that in another thread. Also I know I can use microfiber (Like TecnoGI and LuigiCarnevali) for some of these things, and I have a lot of these materials in different weights and firmess. But I don't want to use them for watch straps, for these things I want leather. Thanks Hey quick question: where are you located? What's easily available to you especially in smaller quantities will vary incredibly based on location. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Danne Report post Posted January 5, 2023 (edited) 6 minutes ago, nstarleather said: Hey quick question: where are you located? What's easily available to you especially in smaller quantities will vary incredibly based on location. I'm in Europe (EU) but as long as the seller have either samples or sell in sq.ft it doesn't matter. Let's say I find a suitable firmer calf crust that I need for some type of straps, and I have done tests with a smaller piece, then I can buy a full hide or two, and it will last A LONG time. Btw, I have seen your posts, you probably have a good answer what leathers would be suitable for me. The leather I think will be hardest for me to find, is the chrome tanned calf skin with really good tear strength. Right now I use a veg tan firmer calf skin, and I'm certain it's good enough for those constructions I use it for, but from my understanding there will be chrome tanned equivalent skins that are stronger. The important part for me here is to have crust skins that are super soft but still possible to shape, and also firmer ones, so I can mix the leathers for what is suitable. I show you an example in a minute. Edited January 5, 2023 by Danne Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nstarleather Report post Posted January 5, 2023 18 minutes ago, Danne said: I'm in Europe (EU) but as long as the seller have either samples or sell in sq.ft it doesn't matter. Let's say I find a suitable firmer calf crust that I need for some type of straps, and I have done tests with a smaller piece, then I can buy a full hide or two, and it will last A LONG time. Btw, I have seen your posts, you probably have a good answer what leathers would be suitable for me. The leather I think will be hardest for me to find, is the chrome tanned calf skin with really good tear strength. Right now I use a veg tan firmer calf skin, and I'm certain it's good enough for those constructions I use it for, but from my understanding there will be chrome tanned equivalent skins that are stronger. The important part for me here is to have crust skins that are super soft but still possible to shape, and also firmer ones, so I can mix the leathers for what is suitable. I show you an example in a minute. Unfortunately I don't know too many suppliers that would ship to you...I do sell leather (that's excess to me) but I'm primarily a manufacturer t. I know D'annonay makes nice calf leather (I get scrap from Alden of New England). Your straps look very nice...since you're talking smaller quantities hopefully someone can point to you a few European suppliers that can work with you to find something that will work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Danne Report post Posted January 5, 2023 (edited) 7 minutes ago, nstarleather said: Unfortunately I don't know too many suppliers that would ship to you...I do sell leather (that's excess to me) but I'm primarily a manufacturer t. I know D'annonay makes nice calf leather (I get scrap from Alden of New England). Your straps look very nice...since you're talking smaller quantities hopefully someone can point to you a few European suppliers that can work with you to find something that will work. I will look for calf crust from D'annonay. Directly from tannery is like 100m2 moq. But the owner (Hermès) sell some products through their tannery division HCP. It's possible to find leather from the best tanneries for decent prices here if you really look for it. The downside is then I can't buy like 1sq.ft and try it. And for this purpose the price isn't that important, the important thing is that I find the correct leathers for my purpose. Btw, thank you for your kind words about my straps. Edited January 5, 2023 by Danne Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jcuk Report post Posted January 5, 2023 Have a look at these they may have something you can use. https://www.aacrack.com Hope this helps JCUK Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Danne Report post Posted January 5, 2023 6 minutes ago, jcuk said: Have a look at these they may have something you can use. https://www.aacrack.com Hope this helps JCUK Thank you, I forgot to look there. And they have a perfect soft calf for paddings that I have samples of. Saint Crispin baby calf. BUT of course they don't sell that product anymore But they might have other products suitable for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jcuk Report post Posted January 5, 2023 Here is one more for you. https://pittards.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Danne Report post Posted January 5, 2023 12 minutes ago, jcuk said: Here is one more for you. https://pittards.com Thank you Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomE Report post Posted January 5, 2023 Pergamena tannery specializes in lighter weight veg tan leathers. https://www.pergamena.net/ They've been around a long time. See p. 10 of this newsletter. https://livestockconservancy.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/Summer-2022-Newsletter.pdf Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Danne Report post Posted January 5, 2023 2 minutes ago, TomE said: Pergamena tannery specializes in lighter weight veg tan leathers. https://www.pergamena.net/ They've been around a long time. See p. 10 of this newsletter. https://livestockconservancy.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/Summer-2022-Newsletter.pdf Thank you, I think their suede splits can be suitable for me. https://www.pergamena.net/leather-shop/leather-splits Like I often use Alran sully goat, and the split from that leather would be perfect when I need to build up thickness but use reinforcement, but of course I don't want to take perfect hides and split away the grain. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
