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Runamuck

Bernina 217 advice

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Hello everyone, 

I've been wanting a machine to do lighter materials than what my Cowboy 4500 is ideal for, and came home yesterday with an early 217 in a table with the cam box on the back. Came with boxes full of feet and plates and a bunch of stuff I don't even know what it is for. I am thinking light leather, Cordura, and waxed and non waxed canvas. What size and type of threads should i be using for these materials?  Alot of 287wh 120 and 287 1738 needles in the box; are these any good for what I want to do? I have no thread other than the big stuff for my Cowboy, so will have to order some; what do I need that will stand up for outdoor and hunting projects? Best sources?  I'm also wondering where I could get some pattern cams for the back of this machine. There is one on it with # 21 on it, I don't know what that means. Hope I didn't make a dumb purchase, but the price was right. I would like to put a servo motor on it, as the speed of this thing looks scary. Any advice or input as where to start with this thing would be greatly appreciated. There is an impressive wealth of knowledge here so figured this was the place to ask. Thank you.

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Hello Runamuck,

The Bernina 217 is a really nice machine. The one with the cam box on back and the cams are a bit harder to find. I used to have a Chandler 217, which is basically the same machine. I recall that the hook was very expensive at one point, as mine had broken and I was having a hard time with the idea of spending hunddreds of dollars to replace it, so ended up selling. Then a Company called "Global" started making that model machine again, and the prices on the hooks came down quite a bit. So search for Global and see if any parts are interchangeable for the Bernina 217 you have. I think your machine has a fairly long stitch and a fairly wide zig zag stitch, which is nice. For weight of thread, I think I was using v69 poly. It may take a heavier thread, not sure if you would have to put a heavier weight tension spring and/or other beefier arts on it to handle heavier threads, but something to consider anyhow. If you got a good price on that machine and it runs, I think you got a nice machine for light to mid-weight leathers and canvas work.

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If I were to order some v69 polyester thread, is there a brand that's better than others for strength or longevity? Will my size 120/19 needles will work with that size of thread? There are a few needles in sizes 14, 16, 18 also. With no thread, I ran the machine by hand through doubled 3-4 oz veg tan scrap and it seemed to go through like butter. I did notice the cord prongs are worn and corroded very thin, so that will have to be first thing. When I got home I felt some resistance rolling by hand; opened to clean and lube and found it was plum full of dog food! Evidently,  someone was using it for a home. Cleaned and lubed everything runs nice and smooth without thread.

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I had a Bernina 217 with a cam reader that I wish I'd kept. The original cams were steel, but I found an after-market for some kind of plastic-like cams that worked quite well . Most of the cams are decorative-stitch cams, but there are two cams you might be interested in -- a three-point two-stitch zig-zag and a four-point three-stitch zig-zag. Both are used for sail making. I'll try to find and post a link to the vender later.

I had a few manuals that went with the machine -- Adjustment Manual, Instruction Book, Owner's Book, and Parts Book. I had scanned the books and if you're interested, send me a PM with your email address and I'll send you copies.

Edited by Tejas

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8 hours ago, Runamuck said:

If I were to order some v69 polyester thread, is there a brand that's better than others for strength or longevity? Will my size 120/19 needles will work with that size of thread?

Actually, a #18 (metric 110) needle is best for v69 (T70) bonded thread. I would only use a #19 needle if the machine struggles to pull up the knots with a #18 needle.

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Thank you for your input guys, I ordered a couple spools of v69 bonded poly from amazon; hopefully it's ok. Are there any brands you prefer? I hope to at least get it spooled up and make sure it works within a few days. If anyone knows where to find some cams, please let me know.  

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1 hour ago, Runamuck said:

Thank you for your input guys, I ordered a couple spools of v69 bonded poly from amazon; hopefully it's ok. Are there any brands you prefer?

I use a variety of brands, some of which are listed below.

  • Cowboy bonded thread from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines
  • Superior bonded thread
  • Amann Strong-Bond from Wawak.com
  • QTC Hi-Spec thread
  • Miscellaneous brands from The Thread Exchange
  • An occasional spool of Weaver bonded thread

With all of these brands, there are bound to be good spools and bad spools. A good spool is well bonded, but not coily like a spring. The bonded thread should stay together when you clip the end with a proper thread snipper (aka: Wiss). If you buy a brand that works well, stick with it as much as possible. If a brand keeps separating, move on.

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Maybe picking up a dead thread but I too just picked up a Chandler 217 with the cam box but only one cam.  I'd really like to find the 3 and or 4 point zig-zag cams if anybody knows of a source?

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Global makes what seems to be a Bernina 217 clone with a cam reader. The video in the link below shows the machine sewing multipoint zig-zag stitches.

https://globalsew.com/product/zz-217-series/

Here is a link to the zz-217 Service Manual that shows a picture of one of the cams, that might be compatible. Perhaps you might try contacting Glogalsew.

https://globalsew.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/service-manual-Global-217.pdf

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On 9/17/2023 at 3:07 PM, sandmanred said:

Maybe picking up a dead thread but I too just picked up a Chandler 217 with the cam box but only one cam.  I'd really like to find the 3 and or 4 point zig-zag cams if anybody knows of a source?

I tried to 3- print them 

worked but i was not 100 % satisfied

the Bernina favourite (household machine) shares the same hook and has the same cams inside

I bought one for the hook and finally pulled the cams out: they are the same as the old bernina 217 cams

the global has an other size cambox and cams i believe

Edited by Michiel

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On 9/24/2023 at 10:16 AM, Michiel said:

I tried to 3- print them 

worked but i was not 100 % satisfied

the Bernina favourite (household machine) shares the same hook and has the same cams inside

I bought one for the hook and finally pulled the cams out: they are the same as the old bernina 217 cams

the global has an other size cambox and cams i believe

Thanks for the information!

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So I bought a stack of cams from a Bernina 830 in hopes of happening upon a 3 stitch zig-3 stitch zag cam in the stack.  Closest I got was a serpentine zigzag with about 9 stitches in a repeat.  So used the cams to engineer a cam to do the 3 stitch zig-3 stitch zag.  It took me a couple of tries but I got it.  Lucky to have a neighbor with a 3D printer to test the design.  Here's a picture of the results of the first and second try, the 3 stitch zigzag and the serpentine cam from the 830 along with a video link.  And a copy of the .stl file in case you want to print one for yourself.

3 point zigzag cam 6 lobe v2.stl

IMG-9017.jpg

IMG-9020.jpg

IMG-9021.jpg

 

 

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That's good work! We have a section of the forum where people can share digital and laser printer design patterns and programs.

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Nice work,

After i made my cams i figured out that by making them a little larger i could make my stitch with also wider.

i bought a wider feed dog needle plate and foot from global (which fitted my older bernina) and was able to enlarge my stitch with

From small to much wider

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On 10/29/2023 at 3:54 PM, Michiel said:

Nice work,

After i made my cams i figured out that by making them a little larger i could make my stitch with also wider.

i bought a wider feed dog needle plate and foot from global (which fitted my older bernina) and was able to enlarge my stitch with

From small to much wider

The stitching on my cam happens at 4 difference radii measured from the center of the cam, from smallest to largest they are 27.8, 28.5, 29.3 and 30.0 mm.  This range drive the needle through the full 6mm of zigzag travel.   How much larger did you go?

I think my machine could go even wider as the first thing the needle hits is the slot in the presser foot.  I'll look into getting one at Global.

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On 10/28/2023 at 11:03 PM, Wizcrafts said:

That's good work! We have a section of the forum where people can share digital and laser printer design patterns and programs.

I can also put the file in another location but can you point me to the section you think is best?

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3 hours ago, sandmanred said:

I can also put the file in another location but can you point me to the section you think is best?

https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/223-3d-printers-and-lasers/

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On 9/24/2023 at 5:16 AM, Michiel said:

I tried to 3- print them 

worked but i was not 100 % satisfied

the Bernina favourite (household machine) shares the same hook and has the same cams inside

I bought one for the hook and finally pulled the cams out: they are the same as the old bernina 217 cams

the global has an other size cambox and cams i believe

I recently picked up a bernina that has the fancy stitch cam,  and in the manual it references both cam styles, the small cams and the larger style one which is what the globals come with ( i also have a global 217 with 4-point). So some bernina 217s came with the small cams and others with the larger one?

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