What to put inside a horse show halter throatlatch to make it keep a shape?

[FarmersWife]

I would like to build my mammoth sized donkey a show halter, and was wondering if anyone knew what is inside the rolled throatlatch of a show halter that helps it keep it's shape?  I'm guessing it must be some sort of wire, but I didn't want to just throw anything in because I believe some metals react and change the leather color.  Copper seemed like it might be a good choice.  Does anyone have any suggestions on what I could use?  Thank you.

Amy

[TomE]

The traditional way is to wrap a leather cover around a leather filler.  I outlined the process in this forum. https://www.leathercraftmasterclass.com/forum-1/leathercraft-techniques/rolled-leather-strap.  Here's an example:

[FarmersWife]

TomE - Thank you very much for the reply and link, it was very helpful!  That is an absolutely gorgeous halter you made.  Would the rolled leather fit up and stay formed into the jowl/throatlatch area like this one?:

I'm not sure if that "sculpted" effect is made with water or a wire - I don't have one that stays formed to take apart.  Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.  I appreciate your time!

Amy

 

Edited January 25, 2023 by FarmersWife

[TomE]

The throatlatches I've seen in that shape feel like they're solid leather to me.  Haven't taken one apart.  After shaping the rolled throatlatch in a rein rounder you can bend it into a shape and it will hold the shape fairly well when dry.  Steinke ("Bridlework" book) mentions using an insulated multistrand wire for smaller rolled pieces.  It needs to have some flexibility.  I'd be concerned about a single conductor copper wire being too ductile.  My money is on an all leather rolled strap giving you the best result.  I'm going to post my complete methods for making a halter in this forum shortly.  Would welcome your feedback.  

[Goldshot Ron]

Tom,

I looked at your instructions for the rounded throatlatch, and find your method very helpful.  Your halter looks very professional, and I will certainly use your tutorial. I cannot tell you how many attempts of rounded throatlatches have found their way into my trash.

Thank you, Ron

[TomE]

1 hour ago, Goldshot Ron said:

Tom,

I looked at your instructions for the rounded throatlatch, and find your method very helpful.  Your halter looks very professional, and I will certainly use your tutorial. I cannot tell you how many attempts of rounded throatlatches have found their way into my trash.

Thank you, Ron

Thanks, Ron.  I recall (?) you giving me tips for sewing close to hardware.  Glad to return the favor.  This rolled throatlatch is based on Al Stohlman's method for handle #17 in his case making book vol. 2.  @bruce johnson supplied the rein rounder.    

Edited January 26, 2023 by TomE

[Goldshot Ron]

Tom,

That is one of Al Stohlman's books I do not have.  My rounding method is basically self-taught.  And, because I do not make rounded pieces very often, it is "hit and miss" when I do.  One question, and I apologize if you mentioned and I didn't read your article well enough, but what is the finished diameter of your throatlatch when finished?  My rounder's largest hole is 1/2 inch.

Thanks, Ron

[TomE]

10 hours ago, Goldshot Ron said:

 One question, and I apologize if you mentioned and I didn't read your article well enough, but what is the finished diameter of your throatlatch when finished?  My rounder's largest hole is 1/2 inch.

The finished rounds are right at 1/2" diameter.  I start shaping with a 5/8" or larger hole.  Al Stohlman mentions the idea of using a heavy strap of leather clamped in a vise as a substitute for a rounder.  

[FarmersWife]

TomE - I am going to try the all leather approach.  I appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions in detail.  Thank you!

Amy

[TomE]

@FarmersWife you’re welcome. Will be interested in how it goes. 

[ShellCordovanFan]

On 1/25/2023 at 8:22 PM, TomE said:

Thanks, Ron.  I recall (?) you giving me tips for sewing close to hardware. 

What are these “sewing close to hardware” tips? I could certainly use some help in that department!! (The search function was not my friend for locating these.)

Edited March 13, 2023 by ShellCordovanFan

[TomE]

5 hours ago, ShellCordovanFan said:

What are these “sewing close to hardware” tips? I could certainly use some help in that department!! (The search function was not my friend for locating these.)

The failsafe is to stitch mark up to the hardware and begin machine sewing 4 holes away, leaving long tails of thread so you can hand sew back to the hardware.  As mentioned in my triple stitched halter methods, I have used this method to sew tightly against the 3 rings on a halter.  More recently, I've been inserting a wedge shaped welt next to the rings so that I can machine stitch right up to the ring.  Two tips -- Be sure to include the welt when wet forming the leather around the ring to minimize the bulge that the machine has to climb.  Also, I am having very good results using the narrow pressor foot setup from @Patrick1 at Hennigan Engineering and Precision.  These feet climb the change in material thickness without a lot of hands-on manipulation.  The Cobra double pressor foot is a bit more slippery in my experience with sewing bridle leather.  I am using the narrow throat plate and feed dog from @RockyAussie for these heavy projects (2-3 layers of 9-10 oz bridle leather).  I use the extreme narrow plate/feed dog from Hennigan Precision when sewing lighter projects with 138 thread and a #21 needle.  For a halter with a round leather throatlatch, I still sew the gullet end against the throatlatch by hand in order to sew tight against the loop that wraps around the throatlatch.