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I've decided to start making lasted footwear and need to buy my first pair of lasts. I've taken various foot measurements. There is a problem though. And a common one I imagine. My foot measurements don't exactly match the last I want to buy. Obviously length is non-negotiable. Ball width too I presume. But what about ball girth and instep girth? How much excess is allowable for these two measurements?

Thanks.

Scott

Edited by ScottEnglish

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You can make minor adjustments to lasts, shaving bits off here and there, or adding expoxy putty or gluing on bits of veg tan leather to increase the dimensions.

Or you could get a custom pair of lasts made to your measurements: Springline Lasts do this, I believe.

It’s not easy to find lasts that have zero heel lift, and wide toes, and lack of toe spring. Let me know if you do!

Something else to be aware of: once feet are not crammed into footwear with tapering toes, stiff soles and raised heels, over months to years they will change shape… spreading, lengthening, and maybe getting higher in the arch. Not surprising, as muscles and tendons begin to work as they were meant to, maybe for the first time in decades. But it does mean that your first pair of lasts may not last (haha) you a long time. I have been making my own footwear for seven years now, and I am probably going to have to buy new lasts this year if I want to keep making lasted shoes.

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Hi tozafoot. Try Podohub for suitable lasts. Namely the Sparta, Athens, and Chamonix models. They have no heel lift. You can even pay a little more and have no toe spring! See Design adjustments in the ordering form. These are the models one of which I intend buying.

Thanks for mentioning how feet have the potential to change shape when barefoot type footwear is worn. This might explain why my ball width seems out of proportion to the rest of my foot!

Edited by ScottEnglish

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In terms of ball girth and instep girth, some excess is allowable, but how much is dependent on the individual's foot and the specific design of the shoe. It's generally recommended to err on the side of caution and choose a last that is slightly larger than the foot measurements, as it's easier to adjust the last to fit a smaller foot than to enlarge it to fit a larger foot.

Ultimately, it may be helpful to consult with a professional shoe maker or cobbler for guidance on choosing the right last for your specific needs.

 

Edited by Northmount
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Thanks, ScottEnglish, that Podohub site looks very interesting! How great that there are increasing resources for people who want to make foot-shaped footwear.

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