Need Info on American Leather Cutter/Skriver

[jkordzi]

Hi, I am now the proud owner of an American leather cutter/skriver, like the one here: https://www.yesteryearessentials.com/products/vintage-1920s-cast-iron-american-st-louis-leather-cutter?variant=18230130053. Unfortunately, it came disassembled.  Anyone have any idea where I can find any info on it, such as how to adjust it,  a catalog, manual, parts diagram, etc.? I'm going to restore it and then use it.  Thanks.

[bruce johnson]

I've never seen anything original. Pilgrim Shoe used to sell parts and I believe their catalog had a parts list. I don't recall a diagram. Bad News - Harris retired and Pilgrim Shoe is no more. I've refurbished and restored several. I don't have any pictures of the 3-in-1s handy. I do have pictures handy of a Landis crank skiver I did and this version of the crank skiver attachment is the same as the American. These might help some. The bottom end of the three in one is pretty basic. The gears pin to the shafts. The threaded end for the wheels are threaded right and left handed. 

[Aven]

You are an owner of a 3in1.  I'm not familiar with American Co.  I do know that Landis made a similar 3in1.  They also made a 5in1.  They are the same, except the 5in1 has two additional functions.  So if you can find information on it, you'll have what you are looking for.  Search the forum for shoe tools, shoe machines, and/or Landis 3in1 or 5in1.  Check YouTube for restorations.

FYI, I don't think the cutter wheels for the 3 and the 5 are the same.  Nor are they cheap.

And in the event you find a good source of information, please share.

Edited April 16, 2023 by Aven

[mb5]

Here is info on the Landis 5 in 1. Hopefully the 3 in 1 is close. From what I recall there were some minor variations even between 5 in 1 models. The parts list says it is for Landis or American. The blade change is probably the same, but I only tried it on a Landis 5 in 1.

https://web.archive.org/web/20120729235004/www.shoesystemsplus.com/parts-landis5in1.html

https://web.archive.org/web/20120723072550/http://www.shoesystemsplus.com/images/Landis_5in1_Change_Blade.pdf

Edited April 16, 2023 by mb5

[Northmount]

Moved this post to leather machinery

[jkordzi]

Thanks for the info - especially the 5 in 1 parts diagram.  Anyone have any info on how to adjust the machine once it's set up?

Edited April 17, 2023 by jkordzi
mistake

[bruce johnson]

3 hours ago, jkordzi said:

Thanks for the info - especially the 5 in 1 parts diagram.  Anyone have any info on how to adjust the machine once it's set up?

The cutter is pretty self explanatory. Biggest thing is figuring out how to remove or tighten the blades on the shaft. Some have holes and an adjustable spanner wrench will work. If not, the old guy who taught me used a pine board wedged into the two wheels and cranked the handle  backwards to bind and lock the blades and unthread them from the shafts. If that doesn't work then a vise grip will but be careful of the blade edge. To reinstall - spin on the inside wheel, then the outside. The board trick nearly always works for tightening them once they are threaded snug. 

Skiver - slide the blade in to the stop. partially tighten the two hold down bolts. put the "back-up bolt in the blade rest and tighten to the back edge of the blade, then back off about 1/4 turn to allow the blade to sit just behind the stop and tighten the hold downs. That slight allowance keep the blade just a hair back of the stop and prevents chipping that  blade corner. The angle of the blade is adjusted at each end. On the side away from the crank, that small knurled eccentic the bolt goes through is rotated and that makes the blade go up and down on that side. Set it and tighten the hexbolt. On the side of the blade nearest the crank, the eccentric has a little "handle" and the bolt on that side has two ears to act like a thumbscrew. Turn the handle to whatever angle you like and tighten the thumbscrew. 

     The gap between the top and bottom roller is what makes the tension to feed the leather through. Narrower gap for mostly thin leather, wider gap for heavier leather. It adjusts by the vertical hex head bolt. The spring helps with tension too and flexes to allow thicker leather through. If the leather feeds but then spins out, narrow up the gap by loosening the hex head bolt. This lets the bottom feed wheel get more of a bite.  If it wont feed at all the gap may be too narrow and tighten the bolt. This opens up the gap so the wheels can grab the leather. Play with spring tension as needed. Realistically, once you get this all set you rarely need to change anything on the fly. 

The guide on the front slides back and forth - feather edge over to the right to a slight skive with a mostly full edge as you adjust it left. 

Oil the ports every so often, grease gears as needed. Once you grease up the universals on the bottom wheel drive shaft on the skiver you shouldn't need to break into that for a long time. 

[jkordzi]

12 hours ago, bruce johnson said:

The cutter is pretty self explanatory. Biggest thing is figuring out how to remove or tighten the blades on the shaft. Some have holes and an adjustable spanner wrench will work. If not, the old guy who taught me used a pine board wedged into the two wheels and cranked the handle  backwards to bind and lock the blades and unthread them from the shafts. If that doesn't work then a vise grip will but be careful of the blade edge. To reinstall - spin on the inside wheel, then the outside. The board trick nearly always works for tightening them once they are threaded snug. 

Skiver - slide the blade in to the stop. partially tighten the two hold down bolts. put the "back-up bolt in the blade rest and tighten to the back edge of the blade, then back off about 1/4 turn to allow the blade to sit just behind the stop and tighten the hold downs. That slight allowance keep the blade just a hair back of the stop and prevents chipping that  blade corner. The angle of the blade is adjusted at each end. On the side away from the crank, that small knurled eccentic the bolt goes through is rotated and that makes the blade go up and down on that side. Set it and tighten the hexbolt. On the side of the blade nearest the crank, the eccentric has a little "handle" and the bolt on that side has two ears to act like a thumbscrew. Turn the handle to whatever angle you like and tighten the thumbscrew. 

     The gap between the top and bottom roller is what makes the tension to feed the leather through. Narrower gap for mostly thin leather, wider gap for heavier leather. It adjusts by the vertical hex head bolt. The spring helps with tension too and flexes to allow thicker leather through. If the leather feeds but then spins out, narrow up the gap by loosening the hex head bolt. This lets the bottom feed wheel get more of a bite.  If it wont feed at all the gap may be too narrow and tighten the bolt. This opens up the gap so the wheels can grab the leather. Play with spring tension as needed. Realistically, once you get this all set you rarely need to change anything on the fly. 

The guide on the front slides back and forth - feather edge over to the right to a slight skive with a mostly full edge as you adjust it left. 

Oil the ports every so often, grease gears as needed. Once you grease up the universals on the bottom wheel drive shaft on the skiver you shouldn't need to break into that for a long time. 

Thanks for the generous and detailed response, Bruce.  I think I'm on my way.