Adler 30-7

[Horand]

I bought this 30-3 Adler on original treadle foot stand.  I would like to transfer the head to a servo motor with speed reducer and table.  

Is there anything that i should be aware of when considering table choices and servo motor.

On a side note I have no official estimate but Southwest Sewing machines in Houston gave me an unofficial quote of about $800 for the above mentioned.   They said that the servo motor needed an internal speed reducer.  They said this made it more expensive.  Please share your knowledge on this.  

[Northmount]

6 hours ago, Horand said:

I bought this 30-3 Adler on original treadle foot stand.  I would like to transfer the head to a servo motor with speed reducer and table.  

I moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines.  This is where the machine guys hang out.

[shoepatcher]

Your Adler is a 1950's , 1960's machine.  It is a big bobbin high lift machine.  It uses needle system 332LG and 332LL LG.  first is round point, second is leather point.  What people do not know is Adler shoepatcher can get out of time as far as the needle bar goes..  If you want to install a servo motor on it, I can walk you thru how to do it. Been working with shoe patchers of various makes and models for over 40 years.  Let me know.

[shoepatcher]

Something does not seem correct on this machine.  Plate says it is a 30-7 but it looks like a short arm.  Can I get more pics of the machine.

glenn

[Tigweldor]

I would give you this advice : keep the treadle -- for the time being.

First thing, replace the piece of wooden board that is acting as the makeshift rod from treadle to flywheel.

Note the distance between the holes and replace it with 2 ball end heads as used on pneumatic cylinders - connected on each end of a piece of ready rod and secured by 2 lock nuts to maintain proper length, once adjusted.

If you want to make it look pretty - slide a piece of copper or brass pipe over the ready rod - makes it look like a solid copper /brass rod.

This is what I am talking about - just get proper fit bearing size for your shaft stubs on treadle  and flywheel = measurement listed under "D"    : https://www.pneuparts.com/en/group/ball-end-head-for-pneumatic-cylinders-iso-15552

The link is just so you know what to get - maybe you can find a different source if the metric sizes won´t fit - which I doubt on an Adler..

If you then also buy the green round rubber/plastic drive belt that you can glue/melt together - you will have one main advantage over a servo motor - you can still operate your hand wheel without a lot of fuss and without having to install a belt tensioner.

Especially in the beginning, until you get to thoroughly know your machine, you will be using your hand wheel a lot - believe me.

Once you oil the treadle well, it will spinn very freely and without any noise. It usually has a tension adjustment screw with a lock nut on one side -- take it apart and clean/oil the pivoting surfaces on both sides of the treadle - some steel wool and acetone will remove stubborn caked on old grease residue.

A new brushless servo motor with on/off switch and speed control, all stemming from Chinesistan, costs about 150 bucks.

A speed reducer consists of 2 bearing blocks , a shaft, 2 taperlock bushings (TB 1610) and 2 SPZ pulleys to fit the bushings (50 and 190mm) - cost comes to about 60 bucks and you have a 3,8 : 1 reduction.

Although the SPZ is a 10mm V-belt  ---- if you get a toothed V belt - the treadle as well as the machine pulley can handle traction at proper belt tension, even though it was originally designed for an 8mm/5/16" round belt.

Another thing : if you want to use a continuous V-belt - you will have to cut a slot for the belt between the now only 2 belt holes in the back of table.

An angle head grinder with a 1mm cutting disc makes short work of that chore - you don´t even have to take the machine of the table.

If you then disconnect the bolt holding treadle support to frame - you can snake the belt through the gap onto the bottom pulley.

Like I said, another 15 dineros for 2 new drive belts and some small coin for bolts, nuts and washers from you local hardware store.......

So when you finally go that route - you can DIY for under 250 bucks - saves way over 500 from an 800 dollar quote.

That will buy you a lot of needles, thread and leather.

 

Greetings

Hans

 

Edited April 19 by Tigweldor

[Tigweldor]

Here is what you will have to do to the stock Singer 29 / Adler 30 table, if you want to run a continuous V-belt.

I didn´t cut the strip full hole diameter - kind of like the dog bone look.

Sanding the inside surfaces took longer than making the cut.

Table top thickness at that point was 7mm - but it is cast iron - cuts like butter with a thin 1mm cutting disc.

Edited April 19 by Tigweldor