Members Cactusman Posted Wednesday at 03:12 PM Members Report Posted Wednesday at 03:12 PM Yes, how many coats of ProResist do you use to insure the antiquing doesn’t “stain” the other dye colors? I end up with a thin coat of antiquing color on parts of my work I don’t want antiqued. I use three coats and I’m not satisfied. Suggestions? Experiences? Thank you for al feedback. David Quote
Members TonyV Posted Thursday at 02:30 AM Members Report Posted Thursday at 02:30 AM (edited) 1 coat. Antique is a stain that can stain just about anything it touches if it is allowed to dry, even pro-resist. So don't let it dry where you dont want. Technique counts here. Apply the antique in smaller sections and quickly wipe off before it has a chance to dry. Practice on scraps to get the feel of it ( you get some tooling practice this way, too). It might still darken the wipe-off areas a bit, but you will learn to take this into account. You can try 2 coats, or more, if you wish, but practice working smaller areas anyway. Practice is good. Edited Thursday at 02:33 AM by TonyV Quote
CFM chuck123wapati Posted Thursday at 12:17 PM CFM Report Posted Thursday at 12:17 PM Don G has an excellent vid on antiquing. Quote Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms. “I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!
Contributing Member Tim Schroeder Posted Thursday at 12:33 PM Contributing Member Report Posted Thursday at 12:33 PM (edited) The antique finish is always going to tint it a little bit. This piece has NO resist at all. I usually use Wyosheen for resist and topcoat. This piece has NO resist at all and I antiqued it three times to get the tooling dark enough. Edited Thursday at 12:35 PM by Tim Schroeder Quote
FrankHester Posted Thursday at 01:50 PM Report Posted Thursday at 01:50 PM 1 hour ago, Tim Schroeder said: The antique finish is always going to tint it a little bit. This piece has NO resist at all. I usually use Wyosheen for resist and topcoat. This piece has NO resist at all and I antiqued it three times to get the tooling dark enough. Can I ask what color of antique you used on this project. Whatever it is, it looks great. Quote
Contributing Member Tim Schroeder Posted Thursday at 07:05 PM Contributing Member Report Posted Thursday at 07:05 PM (edited) Sheridan Brown I wipe it on with trimmed sheepskin thin and fast in circles against the flow of the tooling and wipe off immediately with a cotton cloth wrapped around a block of wood. I did this piece in 5 different sections. I like the color the antique finish turns it but after you buff it out it still comes out pretty light. Edited Thursday at 09:24 PM by Tim Schroeder Quote
Contributing Member Tim Schroeder Posted Thursday at 10:49 PM Contributing Member Report Posted Thursday at 10:49 PM (edited) Also when using Pro Resist and the Wyosheen I would use a damp/wet cloth around a block of wood to wipe off the excess followed by a dry cloth around a block of wood. This wallet was done with Pro Resist with no dye. The block helps leave the antique in any depression It just has one coat of antique and the antique is not near as dark Edited Thursday at 10:53 PM by Tim Schroeder Quote
FrankHester Posted yesterday at 01:20 PM Report Posted yesterday at 01:20 PM 18 hours ago, Tim Schroeder said: Sheridan Brown I wipe it on with trimmed sheepskin thin and fast in circles against the flow of the tooling and wipe off immediately with a cotton cloth wrapped around a block of wood. I did this piece in 5 different sections. I like the color the antique finish turns it but after you buff it out it still comes out pretty light. Thanks for the info! Quote
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