Glassy edges

[ThisIsMyFirstRodeo]

Hey all,

I guess it’s a 2-part question, so I’ll start with the easier first…

1) All things being equal, does Tokonole give a glassier edge than gum trag?

And the considerably more subjective,

2) How do you achieve the glassiest edge?

Currently, I started using an extremely tedious and time-consuming method that seems to be achieving good results, but compared to high-end retail pieces, I know I can do better. 
This particular method is alternating wet (damp) sanding and slicking through progressive grits out to 12000 grit, where I’m finally using gum trag while slicking. Build up a couple layers of slicked trag, smooth out with the damp 12k pad, and repeat until happy enough. 

Im well aware that this is quite excessive, which is why I’m asking. 
Fair disclosure: I did consider 4000 grit to be more than acceptable, which is still probably excessive as well. I’m simply looking for perfection, or as close as I can attain. 
 

Thanks, and may you never burn your bacon,

— AZR

[TonyV]

(1) I've used and gotten good results with tokenole, beeswax, water, spit, NFO and other edging agents and various combinations of the foregoing, but I haven't gotten around to trying gum trag, yet.   It's more about burnishing and buffing than in the chemical used IMO.  I'll use tokenol if I want to make the most of my burnishing, but I might try gum trag some day soon.

(2)  Leathercrafters love a well-burnished, glossy edge, which is a mark of quality and takes some work and effort, but a 'glassy' edge with all that extra steps, work, complications and materials are a waste of time, IMO.  Unless it's a sit on the table and never touch it art piece, leather edges will get scuffed, scratched, bent, twisted and otherwise 'shatter' the glassy edge in less time than it took to create it, whereas a well-burnished edge will last longer and is simple to touch up or restore.

I think you mean 400 grit (extra fine) and 1200 grit (super fine) sandpaper.  I see no need to go any finer than 600 grit in any case.  The finest paper I've ever used on edges before using edge paint ( a wall clock) is 400 grit.

YMMV

[Hildebrand]

I typically do 220 grit then 600 grit and wet with water apply glycerin saddle soap and burnish with a canvas cloth, got this from Don Gonzales Youtube video.  Seems to give me the best edge and works well with dyed edges, I have read some of the burnishing agents won't let die penetrate so you have to make sure your order of operations is right.  Edges is where I have noticed the most difference with different quality of leather, Herman Oak slicks and burnished much quicker and with less prep work than the Tandy leather I have used.

Todd

[ThisIsMyFirstRodeo]

21 hours ago, TonyV said:

(1) I've used and gotten good results with tokenole, beeswax, water, spit, NFO and other edging agents and various combinations of the foregoing, but I haven't gotten around to trying gum trag, yet.   It's more about burnishing and buffing than in the chemical used IMO.  I'll use tokenol if I want to make the most of my burnishing, but I might try gum trag some day soon.

(2)  Leathercrafters love a well-burnished, glossy edge, which is a mark of quality and takes some work and effort, but a 'glassy' edge with all that extra steps, work, complications and materials are a waste of time, IMO.  Unless it's a sit on the table and never touch it art piece, leather edges will get scuffed, scratched, bent, twisted and otherwise 'shatter' the glassy edge in less time than it took to create it, whereas a well-burnished edge will last longer and is simple to touch up or restore.

I think you mean 400 grit (extra fine) and 1200 grit (super fine) sandpaper.  I see no need to go any finer than 600 grit in any case.  The finest paper I've ever used on edges before using edge paint ( a wall clock) is 400 grit.

YMMV

Tony, actually it does go all the way to 12k. (Micro Mesh set, found at Woodcraft). It isn’t ANSI or Euro (p-XXX), I believe it is a Japanese scale. 
Right now, I’m using this method mainly because I’m almost out of trag, so I’m trying to conserve it where I can. 
You aren’t wrong with the futility of the task. It really is just an exercise in perfection to learn how I can charge another $100/bag. 
 

Todd, I imagine that you are correct with your assessment of leather quality. Currently I’m actually using what I think is a decent chrome-tan, but it’s my first step away from veg tan into chrome. 
Out of curiosity, does the saddle soap pull the dye out of the leather? Haven’t used it for anything aside from cleaning primarily upholstery leather.

— AZR

Edited May 4 by ThisIsMyFirstRodeo
Extra info

[dikman]

Chrome-tan, notoriously difficult to get a good finished edge. Me, I go for a nice polished edge (veg) using beeswax. I figure there's no point in overdoing it because with leather goods that are used the edge is the first thing that starts wearing. Then again, I've mainly made holsters and gunbelts and they tend to get knocked around a bit.