Fighting gravity with traditional-ish seax sheath

[ThisIsMyFirstRodeo]

So the seax is almost more of a long push-dagger (palm wrapped around pommel rather than butted against it), forged from a railroad spike (just twisted and drawn, 1st forged anything…) and due to the head of the spike and length of blade (11” sharpened maybe?), is exceedingly pommel-heavy. Also has a very short handle section, just to make balance worse (all slice, no chop if that makes any sense…).
 

But, because they were typically carried suspended horizontally from the belt, I’m trying to figure out how to have enough sheath to contain/control the blade without gravity and momentum taking a quick advantage while I’m moving. I don’t really want to transition to a vertical carry, as the length almost dictates a pretty deep drop from the waist to release the tip almost making more of a thigh rig.

Any thoughts on how to secure it horizontally? Again, no hilt, so no retention strap. Maybe there’s a way to form the throat around the handle for a friction fit, but I feel like the pommel weight might overcome the friction as well. Lost on this one…

— AZR

[chuck123wapati]

rr spikes are always a fun adventure in forging. Make a traditional seax sheath; they go almost full length, and you may have to make it even longer up the handle., Your balance point will be farther up, and your top/ front D-ring should be as high as possible to counteract the overbalance of the handle. You will have to play with it to find the balance point of the knife. Find that, and go from there. You want slightly more weight at the blade end.

[ThisIsMyFirstRodeo]

6 hours ago, AlZilla said:

Merged nearly identical dupes. We could remove one or the other. @ThisIsMyFirstRodeo

Sorry. And thank you. For some reason I seem to double post, haven’t solved the user-error yet. 

[ThisIsMyFirstRodeo]

2 hours ago, chuck123wapati said:

rr spikes are always a fun adventure in forging. Make a traditional seax sheath; they go almost full length, and you may have to make it even longer up the handle., Your balance point will be farther up, and your top/ front D-ring should be as high as possible to counteract the overbalance of the handle. You will have to play with it to find the balance point of the knife. Find that, and go from there. You want slightly more weight at the blade end.

I’ll try to finger out how to reduce the resolution of my pics so I can post them, and you’ll be able to see what I’m working with. Thank you for the geometry, I’ll see what I can come up with…

[Northmount]

19 hours ago, ThisIsMyFirstRodeo said:

I’ll try to finger out how to reduce the resolution of my pics so I can post them, and you’ll be able to see what I’m working with. Thank you for the geometry, I’ll see what I can come up with…

If your files are too large to post here due to file size restrictions, you need to resize your files to fit.  Please use jpg or png format files as they load automatically when the thread is opened.  

Follow this link for some helps and suggestions.  https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/15122-how-to-post-pictures-on-lw/?do=findComment&comment=551171There are lots of Apps, software, and online tools available on the web, or even built into your device to enable you to reduce your file sizes.  800 pixels in the longest dimension is quite adequate.  Smart phone screens and many monitors don't display high res files in high resolution.  People that live on the fringes of the internet appreciate smaller file sizes and high res photos may take from 10 minutes to hours to download.

 

[Northmount]

23 hours ago, ThisIsMyFirstRodeo said:

Sorry. And thank you. For some reason I seem to double post, haven’t solved the user-error yet. 

Most often it is slow network response.  Click on submit only once, wait for a response.  If you keep clicking, you will post multiple posts.

@AlZilla FYI