Edge painting prior to burnishing

[Curious Observer]

I’m planning on buying black fiebings dye to hit edges on small items and belts before burnishing. Should I get the alcohol based or the other one? Thanks for reading and sharing your insights. Feel free to share your favorite sequence, methods or anything else you use to achieve your best results. Thanks again, Mario 

[alfredleatherworks]

Just to help clarify, you’re not painting the edge, that is a different process that typically uses a product called edge paint, such as a Fiebings product called Edge Kote. What you are describing is simply dying the edge.

My preferred way to finish veg-tan edges is to dye them and burnish them, as you said you want to do. I’ve done it using Fiebings regular dyes, their Pro dyes, Angelus dyes, and even the whole range of Tandy products from their oil dyes to their water dyes and stains. It shouldn’t matter what product you use to dye the edges as long as it gives you the look you’re going for. I like to use the same product on my edges, and if need be the flesh (or suede) side, that I use on the skin side. I like how this has worked out for me. 

My process is pretty simple. I dye my edges, then I dye the skin side. The edges typically take several applications of dye to get dark enough; I think I usually do at least three applications. Once the dye dries I buff the piece with a soft lint-free cloth or shearling scrap which helps remove excess dye that didn’t soak in, and then I burnish my edges. I typically use Tokonole these days as it’s a one-step process and gives amazing results. There’s other products out there, and I’ve had success with most of them, I just really like the Tokonole.

The one time I’ve found where the type of dye really, really matters is dip-dying. I will only do this with Fiebings Pro dyes because the oil-based pigment in it gives a better end result vs the powder-based pigments in their regular line of dyes. Angelus dyes are also a powder-based pigment, fwiw. I generally don’t use the Tandy brand dyes anymore, and never did try dip-dying with them. I just like the colors and the end results I get from the Fiebings and Angelus brands.

[Cumberland Highpower]

Alfred's advice is pretty spot on.

All of the dye is "alcohol based"  but the pro dye is a different formula.    I personally only use the Pro Dye.  Doesn't overly dry the leather and has better results as far as finish/look.

If you plan to burnish after edge painting, you really need an edge paint designed for it. (Such as Fenice)  It just depends on what you're looking achieve. Some of the paints that are not designed for burnishing are better than others as well. (durability). A good example (to me) of a poor edge paint is LCI.

Always when you're dying any leather, edges or dip dying, etc a major factor in the finish quality is the leather itself.   Some leathers such as Herman Oak dry quickly and evenly.   If your dye is too cold it will not absorb well either.

 

 

Edited August 1 by Cumberland Highpower

[alfredleatherworks]

Edge painting uses an edge paint or edge or edge kote product, or an actual paint (I’ve seen Angelus paint used with good success). It is a technique which uses a surface coat that only penetrates the outer leather fibers for adhesion. You do not typically “burnish” with this technique. You sand lightly between coats until you achieve a smooth, even surface. Heat is sometimes used in this process, typically with a hand tool heated over an alcohol burner or with an electric machine, though this requires using an edge paint designed for this.

Edge dying uses any type of dye or stain to color the leather fibers, which penetrates the leather fibers deeper just as dying the surface does. This is typically followed by burnishing.

Burnishing uses light moisture to soften the leather fibers and then pressure and friction to compress those fibers until they form a firm/hard and polished surface. This can be done with one-step products like Tokonole or gum tragacanth, or with multi-step techniques like liquid saddle soap to start and beeswax to finish. This technique can be done with or without dying the edges or flesh/suede side of the leather first.

My preferred choice of dyes are alcohol based meaning the carrying liquid is an alcohol or similar solvent-based liquid. These dry quickly as compared to water dyes (slower drying) or oil dyes (slowest drying). Dyes like the regular line of Fiebings are an alcohol carrying liquid with a powder based pigment. Their Pro dyes are a similar alcohol base with an oil based pigment which, because it is liquid, absorbs more evenly into the leather fibers, and more deeply. 

Water or oil based dyes use their namesake as the carrying liquid. Water based dyes usually use a powder based pigment, though oil dyes can use either powder or oil based pigments. 

Temperature can affect both the leather and the dye, though unless you’re in extreme heat or cold it usually isn’t enough of a factor to worry about. Still, it’s something to consider depending on location and time of year. The biggest thing is don’t let your dye freeze. Some specifically say they can handle a freeze, but it’s generally best not to let that happen. 

The type of burnisher used can have a small effect on the way the burnishing turns out. For example, hardwood gives a better burnish than soft wood. Glass gives a good burnish, but so does metal, though honestly bone or antler give the best burnish. Short of bone or antler, I prefer a good hardwood though I’ve found little difference between them other than how it feels in my hand. Also, burnishing isn’t supposed to be a high-speed process. Even when using a burnishing machine you generally achieve the best results with slower speeds. Pressure should be enough to gently compress and polish the leather fibers but not enough to smash the surface and/or bulge out the sides. 

— Riley

Edited August 1 by alfredleatherworks

[Curious Observer]

Hi Riley,

 I’m truly grateful for the comprehensive response to my question. It is exactly what I was curious (like my handle here says) about, how to make that important and so heavily pursued good outcome in leather work better in my work. I appreciate how you covered different options and the why and how. 
 

I was about to get some dye as I had tried edge kote, but was not crazy about the result. I have some water based Fiebings but suspected that the alcohol based one might be faster. I picked up the black pro as planned and is helping. Made mental note to back up a bit on speed and pressure as you pointed out. Maybe some day I’ll reach the holy grail of the “glass” edge. 

[alfredleatherworks]

10 hours ago, Curious Observer said:

Hi Riley,

 I’m truly grateful for the comprehensive response to my question. It is exactly what I was curious (like my handle here says) about, how to make that important and so heavily pursued good outcome in leather work better in my work. I appreciate how you covered different options and the why and how. 
 

I was about to get some dye as I had tried edge kote, but was not crazy about the result. I have some water based Fiebings but suspected that the alcohol based one might be faster. I picked up the black pro as planned and is helping. Made mental note to back up a bit on speed and pressure as you pointed out. Maybe some day I’ll reach the holy grail of the “glass” edge. 

Glad I could be helpful! Teaching is one of my favorite things and I enjoy the opportunity to share what I’ve learned.

[billybopp]

If you're looking for a brown or black burnished, there's a "cheat-code" now that Tokonole is available in black and brown in addition to the more usual neutral color.  It works great!

- Bill