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Ok here's the example of what I would like to do.,

1 layer 4oz veg tan

1 layer 1oz black cow leather

I want to sew the black leather to the bottom of the veg tan. Now the edges you can see the two seperate layers of leather. When the project is done i want it to look like there is only one layer on the edges. how does one do that? I want to use this on several ideas but have come up empty.. Any ideas or tuts greatly appreciated

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ok.... you will be doing a" Felled edge"..

the black will be sewn onto the veg tan good side to good side

now fold the black back on to its self and" top stich" on the black

close to where the first seam was sewn.

best way i can tell you.

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Just to kick it around a little... I guess edge dressing is out of the question... Total 5oz maybe a wallet or something? 2 questions- 1- Do you want the edges to be Veg or Black? and 2- What type of projects?

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ok, i guess a picture says 1000 words so let me show you this

timekeeper1_si1.jpg

He has a top layer of shark and a bottom layer of light leather. The edge appears to be all one piece without any folding.

I'd like to achieve this with belts and other items as well.

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Because you are using a crome tanned leather you won't be able to rub it and to get the effect you want. So I see your only option with those materials would be a self polishing edge paint. Here is a link to a company that would have the product you need. This is a professional level product Fiebings would also have a version of it.

LCI has a $100.00 minnimum order but you might be able to have them sample you what you need or they might be able to give you a name of a Jobber. They just purchased Dyo, after their plant blew up, so they are pretty busy right now.

David Genadek

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For small items I have had decent luck edging the top on front and back, glueing the top to a larger piece of backing leather, cut the backing along the edges then burnishing in the appropriate groove on the burnisher (gets a good bond and forms the lining leather to the rounded edge), then finish with edge paint, then top stitch.

I think the bond would hold for a small item like a watchband

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You need to skive the backer piece to a feather edge. glue the pieces down and sew.

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Because you are using a crome tanned leather you won't be able to rub it and to get the effect you want. So I see your only option with those materials would be a self polishing edge paint. Here is a link to a company that would have the product you need. This is a professional level product Fiebings would also have a version of it.

LCI has a $100.00 minnimum order but you might be able to have them sample you what you need or they might be able to give you a name of a Jobber. They just purchased Dyo, after their plant blew up, so they are pretty busy right now.

David Genadek

Does anyone know if the edge coat this company sells is thicker than Fiebing's edge kote, or is it pretty much the same? Also, would this company have colors other than brown and black?

If anyone is interested in going in on a minimum order, I'm game. I'll give them a call this week.

Ed

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Does anyone know if the edge coat this company sells is thicker than Fiebing's edge kote, or is it pretty much the same? Also, would this company have colors other than brown and black?

If anyone is interested in going in on a minimum order, I'm game. I'll give them a call this week.

Ed

I've noticed that the bottle of Fiebing's Edge Kote reads "stir before use. Never shake". However, this company's web site reads that their pigmented edge dyes should be stirred or shaken. I don't like the idea of wasting any edge coat by having to wipe off my stirring stick. I could figure a way to wipe the dye onto my application felt, but it seems it could be a bit messy. Is there really a problem with shaking Fiebing's Edge Kote?

Ed

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This stuff works real good! Much better than edge kote.

http://www.eleatherworks.com/search.php?mo...arch&page=1

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This stuff works real good! Much better than edge kote.

http://www.eleatherworks.com/search.php?mo...arch&page=1

It looks like Zack White might be reselling LCI's products.

What I found on this linked page is Fiebing's Edge Enamel... Might be interesting. Is it thicker than Edge Kote, or the is it the very same thing?

The other items are the Edge Ink, probably from LCI. Is this the stuff that works better than Fiebing's Edge Kote. If this Edge Ink is from LCI, it's good to know that they of the colors they have I need only the brown and black. I was dredding to have to decide and try from among ten different shades of brown and black.

Here's the info from LCI's website.

It seems that their Edge Coat has the heaviest viscosity. I'm calling this week to get the rundown on the differences among all the edge coating products.

Edge Ink *

A fast setting acrylic, pigmented edge dressing. Imparts a durable

high-gloss and waterproof finish. Application: spray or manual. Use as

is. Do not thin.

EDGE ENAMEL *

A fast drying acrylic edge dressing. Imparts a semi-gloss and waterproof

finish. Application: spray or manual. Use as is. Do not thin.

*

EDGE COAT *

A transparent colored edge dressing. Heavy viscosity. Application: manual.

If thinning is desired, use water only.

*

BURNISHING EDGE INK *

A fast setting carnauba wax ink that burnishes to a very high-gloss. Imparts

a smooth, waterproof, lustrous finish with excellent fill. Use as is. Do not

thin.

*

NEUTRAL CASING *

A viscous edge leveler. Also used for smoothing flesh-sides. Apply with a

soft cloth or sponge. For best results, rub in one direction.

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I just thought of a possible idea to thicken Edge Kote. What about mixing it with a medium or heavy body acrylic paint?

I'll try mixing some in a baby food jar. By the way, does anyone know of a good source for small baby food jars, which are perfect for mixing and storing small amounts of dye?

Ed

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Out of curiosity, I did a quick search on Ebay and came up with a whole bunch of empty baby food jars for sale.

I'm still amazed at what can be found on Ebay!

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I believe there is an edge sewing process called a french edge. I'm not sure of the process, but items finished like that look real good. Looks nerve wracking for small stuff to me so I never tried it.

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I just thought of a possible idea to thicken Edge Kote. What about mixing it with a medium or heavy body acrylic paint?

I'll try mixing some in a baby food jar. By the way, does anyone know of a good source for small baby food jars, which are perfect for mixing and storing small amounts of dye?

Ed

If you want really small containers, go to your local pharmacy and buy some pill bottles with threaded caps. You could also use film canisters.

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called LCI just now.

They acquired DYO Chemical. I was told the Dyo Edge Finish is what is needed:

Edge Finishes

DYO Edge Finish:

DYO Edge Finish is a non-hazardous, non-flammable, quick drying edge finish. DYO Edge Finish produces a smooth, even edge that provides the perfect finished look to your quality footwear. DYO Edge Finish is available in many popular colors and Custom Color Matching is also available. Burnishing is not required when using DYO Edge Finish, just apply and allow to dry.

Application: Spray, Manual, or Edging Machine

Manual Edge Ink:

Manual Edge Ink is a “thick,” water based edge finish that quickly fills in between the fibers of exposed leather and dries to a smooth, glossy edge. Manual Edge Ink will not crack or peel, and once dry is waterproof. Manual Edge Ink is available in popular edge colors as well as Custom Matched Colors. Burnishing is not required when using Manual Edge Ink.

Application: Manual

Custom colors are available.

You need a tax ID to order

Ed

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The one called Reliable, i believe it's a Feibings product. It works real good for me...

I dye my edges, then burnish, if I'm not waxing the edge with beeswax, I use old Reliable...fills in the little dips and things quite nicely, two coats will fill in a pothole...lol then you burnish that stuff..shines up nice. It has wax in it.

I've not tried the Zack's stuff, but he has his on line of wholesale belts he uses it on, and that looks good too, but can't tell you from my experience, Next time I'm there I'll ask him for a small bottle to try.

RDB, were you referring to Fiebings Edge Enamel or Zack's manual edge ink as being better than Fiebings Edge Kote?

ed

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The one called Reliable, i believe it's a Feibings product. It works real good for me...

I dye my edges, then burnish, if I'm not waxing the edge with beeswax, I use old Reliable...fills in the little dips and things quite nicely, two coats will fill in a pothole...lol then you burnish that stuff..shines up nice. It has wax in it.

I've not tried the Zack's stuff, but he has his on line of wholesale belts he uses it on, and that looks good too, but can't tell you from my experience, Next time I'm there I'll ask him for a small bottle to try.

RDB,

Thanks for pointing me to Zack White. I had known about the place, but was poking around the site even more. I'd like to try out some of their suedes and chrome tans. Are you at all familiar with their 5/7, 6/7 oz chrome tans, which they call oil tans?

This Fiebing's Reliable seems as if it wold be good to have on hand. I like that you can get it in black and gradations of brown.

Ed

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While I'm waiting to hear back from LCI regarding their edge finish, I thought I might try a few things from Zack White's, especially since I can get 4 oz bottles.

A good educated guess seems to suggest that Zack White's Edge Ink is the same as LCI's. I'll call tomorrow to find out more.

I thought I'd also like to try Fiebing's Edge Enamel. Anyone have experience with this relative to Fiebing's Edge Kote, which is what I'm currently using.

Ed

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RDB,

How are Zack White's wholesale prices? Would you say about 15 to 25 percent less than retail?

Ed

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The one called Reliable, i believe it's a Feibings product. It works real good for me...

I dye my edges, then burnish, if I'm not waxing the edge with beeswax, I use old Reliable...fills in the little dips and things quite nicely, two coats will fill in a pothole...lol then you burnish that stuff..shines up nice. It has wax in it.

I've not tried the Zack's stuff, but he has his on line of wholesale belts he uses it on, and that looks good too, but can't tell you from my experience, Next time I'm there I'll ask him for a small bottle to try.

I'd like to try some of this Reliable wax burnishing ink. Here's a link where you can get a good variety of browns and a black:

http://www.peasandcornco.com/shoeandleathe...inkwaxstain.asp

What is the consistency of the liquid that is applied. I'm only familiar with Edge Kote. Would you say it's thicker or thinner than Edge Kote?

Thanks,

Ed

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It's thickerer...

Zack's is about 1/2 hr away from me. Considering that I began this work up again, and the fact that just about all the other suppliers on the East Coast are out of business or moved to the west coast, I thank my lucky stars the place exists. Anything that keeps them in business, makes my life easier.

I am amazed that they carry the varied product line that they do. It's just a metal building in a tiny little rural town.

I have a NC state tax #, so I get the business discount on everything. I save at least those percentages you are talking about.....

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The one called Reliable, i believe it's a Feibings product. It works real good for me...

I dye my edges, then burnish, if I'm not waxing the edge with beeswax, I use old Reliable...fills in the little dips and things quite nicely, two coats will fill in a pothole...lol then you burnish that stuff..shines up nice. It has wax in it.

I've not tried the Zack's stuff, but he has his on line of wholesale belts he uses it on, and that looks good too, but can't tell you from my experience, Next time I'm there I'll ask him for a small bottle to try.

Just finished burnishing Edge Kote with beeswax. I like it but am now wondering how well Reliable will work. Will the Reliable Wax do a good job of dying the edge as well as filling in cracks and burnishing?

Thanks,

ed

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RDB,

How is the selection of oiled chrome tan and bridle leather at Zack White's?

Ed

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