Care and Maintenance of Display Saddles

[Curbstrap2]

I need some advice for care and maintenance of saddles that are on display. These would be indoors, but subjected to lights, dust, heating and air conditioning, humidity etc. Not used on horses. Some have not been ridden in many years. My biggest concerns are the wool fleece (keeping critters out), leather integrity and counteracting rust on hardware.

Any help, insight or advice is appreciated. Thank you.

[bruce johnson]

No simple answers and some of this varies by area. I have heard back from museum people at the NCWHM on OKC, BBHC in COdy, and the Autry. Also some private collectors.

For the wool, in this area we don't seem to have as much insect larvae problem as other parts of the country. I have had recommendations from those areas of moth balls in a net bag hanging under the saddle rack, some sprays directly on the wool (Raid residual was one recommendation), and sprinkling borax or one of the silicate flea powders directly into the wool.

For the iron hardware - take off the latigos and leave them off or replace them with a veg tan alternative. The hardware can have the rust removed by steel wool or brass brushes, polished up, and then a preventative applied (WD 40 seems popular) like an oil or wax. Polish brass and leave as is or lightly lacquer.

For the leather - all over the board. Recommendations I have had are for the most part no oil, although one did recommend olive oil for really dry cardboard leather before messing with the saddle, another was a Lexol fan. Most of the museum folk that responded said pastes - Skidmore's, Feibing's saddle soap, Leather Therapy, or something in a burgundy can from Australia (Williams I am sure). I like RM Williams a lot. That is my general first reach for the good stuff anyway. It soaks in pretty quickly, and polishes up nicely when absorbed. I don't use any finishes on the lookers. The most common recommendation was to not apply these conditioners warm or set the piece in the sun to speed absorption. Warm rooms and a few days is better. Thin coats, give each coat a few days, and only then reapply if you seriously think it needs it.

Keep any of the oils and pastes off any rawhide. Some of these oldies will have a seamless piece of rawhide over the horn. Resist the urge to condition it, it is a calf scrotum and part of history.

My biggest problem is polishing the hardware like silver and brass. I use wadding and really work to keep it off the leather.

[gtwister09]

Bruce gave some good information... Instead of the WD-40 for the iron hardware, we have used another one called Strong Arm Spray that appears to work much better. Strong Arm Sprays

Regards,

Ben

[Traveller]

Some of these oldies will have a seamless piece of rawhide over the horn. Resist the urge to condition it, it is a calf scrotum and part of history.

Who knew? (Well, you did, apparently, and now so do I!)

There's a bit of an "ick" factor to rawhide that I had no idea existed... precious thing that I am....

[Curbstrap2]

No simple answers and some of this varies by area. I have heard back from museum people at the NCWHM on OKC, BBHC in COdy, and the Autry. Also some private collectors.

For the wool, in this area we don't seem to have as much insect larvae problem as other parts of the country. I have had recommendations from those areas of moth balls in a net bag hanging under the saddle rack, some sprays directly on the wool (Raid residual was one recommendation), and sprinkling borax or one of the silicate flea powders directly into the wool.

For the iron hardware - take off the latigos and leave them off or replace them with a veg tan alternative. The hardware can have the rust removed by steel wool or brass brushes, polished up, and then a preventative applied (WD 40 seems popular) like an oil or wax. Polish brass and leave as is or lightly lacquer.

For the leather - all over the board. Recommendations I have had are for the most part no oil, although one did recommend olive oil for really dry cardboard leather before messing with the saddle, another was a Lexol fan. Most of the museum folk that responded said pastes - Skidmore's, Feibing's saddle soap, Leather Therapy, or something in a burgundy can from Australia (Williams I am sure). I like RM Williams a lot. That is my general first reach for the good stuff anyway. It soaks in pretty quickly, and polishes up nicely when absorbed. I don't use any finishes on the lookers. The most common recommendation was to not apply these conditioners warm or set the piece in the sun to speed absorption. Warm rooms and a few days is better. Thin coats, give each coat a few days, and only then reapply if you seriously think it needs it.

Keep any of the oils and pastes off any rawhide. Some of these oldies will have a seamless piece of rawhide over the horn. Resist the urge to condition it, it is a calf scrotum and part of history.

My biggest problem is polishing the hardware like silver and brass. I use wadding and really work to keep it off the leather.

Thanks Bruce! Thats great information.

Bruce gave some good information... Instead of the WD-40 for the iron hardware, we have used another one called Strong Arm Spray that appears to work much better. Strong Arm Sprays

Regards,

Ben

Thanks Ben.

[gtwister09]

If it has Tires or Testicles it's gonna give you trouble.

That's too funny!!!

[Saddlebag]

If it has Tires or Testicles it's gonna give you trouble.

I am amused. ha ha ha ha ha.