Well Tell me what you think?

[Chris B]

Well I have taken your guys advice and I am driving the 2.5/3 hours it takes to get to my local tandy. And I missed the first class but I have caught up. At least I think lol. Any way here is a picture and I did resize it but it might be still to big. But I do know i have to work on my pear shader and my detail cuts. I have to figure out where to shade and not too. And also, I cant figure out on what happened with my detail cuts, why didnt they open up? Was my leather too wet or dry? Well dont hold back and let me know what you all think.

Thanks,

Chris

[Mike Craw]

Hey Welder!

First off, for a first project, that's a pretty good start. I agree with the advice you got about taking classes. It's a great help, to me at least, to be able to watch something done right in front of me. If you find you can't make the classes because of time, weather, work, family or whatever, your next best option is video classes. My recommendation has been, and continues to be, the two DVD set called "The Art of Leather Carving and Floral Layout" by Jeremiah Watt. They're pretty pricey, but I've never seen anything else that is as complete. He covers every aspect of the carving and tooling with close-ups as he's doing it. I've been at this since 1981, and I still refer to the DVS's especially for tips on designing lay-outs.

As far as a critique goes, you will find that your swivel knife is hard tool to master, but once it's brought under control the results are very satisfying. Any time you have any scrap leather, case it and just do curves and decorative cuts. Shading comes with practice and will become second nature before too long. My guess is that your observation about the decorative cuts is right, and it's probably because the leather got a little too dry.

Other people on this site have refered to our hobby/business as an obsession or a sickness (in fact there's a disclaimer on the Home Page) but it's a wonderful way to express yourself and you have found the most knowledgeable and helpful bunch of folks around. Welcome, and keep working to improve.

Mike

[Chris B]

Thanks Mike for the reply. Where could I buy those 2 dvds you told me about?

Thanks,

Chris

[Mike Craw]

Hey!

Jeremiah Watt has his own website where he sells his saddles, tools, and instructional DVD's. It's www.ranch2arena.com and when you go on that site, make sure you look at the custom saddles he tooled. It will fire you up about tooling.

By the way, I have no ties to Jeremiah or his operation. I just think his DVD's are probably the best for a begining or intermediate leather tooler I've ever seen.

Mike

[Vikefan]

Well I have taken your guys advice and I am driving the 2.5/3 hours it takes to get to my local tandy. And I missed the first class but I have caught up. At least I think lol. Any way here is a picture and I did resize it but it might be still to big. But I do know i have to work on my pear shader and my detail cuts. I have to figure out where to shade and not too. And also, I cant figure out on what happened with my detail cuts, why didnt they open up? Was my leather too wet or dry? Well dont hold back and let me know what you all think.

Thanks,

Chris

It looks awesome! Very nice indeed.

[DonnieBlaze]

nice work. your tandy actualy knows how to teach leather craft. i took classes at my tandy and wound up teaching my self (still learning). they had no idea what they were doing we now have a new manager hopefuly he knows mor about carving leather then the last one. anyhow enough of my rambling that is some nice work there

[Luke Hatley]

that is a Start. the next time that you are at the Tandy buy the book Craft Tools Tech Tips, I will be a lot of help to you.

[JLSleather]

that is a Start.

Yep, a start. Now you have somewhere to go from. I've attached a photo (including yours) that may make short work of a couple of simple "fixes" that make considerable differences. I'm going to give you some concrete solutions; that said, I'll point out that you're clear over there and kaint sock me ina eye

Note the red circle. You have beveled these lines on the wrong side of the line. Look at the red contour line in the pattern. This line should be cut FIRST, giving the illusion that the scroll is INSIDE of it (lower, if it's easier to see it that way). Don't switch sides (see inside red oval).

One more ... Look at the red shading on the blossom. Here's the issue -- it's not the shading DOWN that's critical, it's making the NOT shaded portion appear RAISED. More important than the "peared" area in this design is what's left NOT shaded. The red is only to make the "natural" stand up.

All that said, I would add that - particularly for a "beginner" -- your backgrounding is very smooth. Usually, new guys have a background issue, but apparently one you're not having a problem with. Stay at it, and you'll be fine...

[WyomingSlick]

You said, "Don't hold back" so I won't. Softly I would say, "That is a waste of good leather and your time." I have taught a few in my time in 4-H. And I have seen worse. I don't know how your class is structured, but when I have students, the first thing they learn is to achieve a good transfer of the pattern to the leather. This is where Craftaids are so perfect as they achieve this step easily. I urge all beginners to use Craftaids - there will be plenty of time later to develop their tracing skills and develop their own designs. I also have beginning students start with as simple floral patterns as possible. This pattern has too many small curves for a novice. Craftaid patterns #6584, 4110, or 6594 would be better "starters." For most of my students, we start with one of the patterns in the many books where each step in the tooling process is shown in the order performed. This is usually a halfback pattern as the successful ones can be used to make moneyclips.

Then we come to the swivel knife. Looking at your work, I don't see that you have spent much time practicing with the knife, or your knife is dull, or the leather wasn't properly cased, OR - all of the above. Have your instructor or another experianced hidepounder evaluate the condition of your knife and leather. Once you have ensured that those two factors are okay, then it is a matter primarily of knife control. That only comes from practice and more practice! And while you are practicing with your swivel knife, your hand may get tired. That is a good time to practice beveling on some of those cuts you just made. And learning to use the veiners and camoflauges. And etc.

Now to return to my statement regarding wasting your time. I wish to clarify that for you. What I mean by that; is that it is a waste of time to bevel, shade, cam, vein, etc.... a piece of work that was not carved well to start with. It is like trying to build a brick house on a foundation made of cardboard boxes. So, I do want to strongly emphasize that you get the swivel knife down pat to begin with, and build your skills from there. If you strive to always do the best you can, and learn from your mistakes, it will all come together......and the compliments and pride will follow.

Attachments of interest. These are scans of my first billfold made around 1966 when I was in 4-H. It was a gift to my Dad, who passed away a few years back. It recieved a blue ribbon at fair as I recall, which was fine for a 10 year old kid. Looking at it now, some forty years later, the failings in the work are obvious to me, but I think it still reflects well on the 4-H leader who taught kids to do this. Thank you, Mr. Hahn.

[King's X]

Hey Welder

Use these to practice your swivel knife cuts. It is what I practice with, not daily but regularly. They have helped me improve greatly, but it will take time. Do you have the 'leatherworking manual?' it is a good step my step process for someone starting out. I also have the Al Stohlman home study course manual if you are interested? I agree on the craft tool tips book. As much information as you can get your hands on to read, read and try as you go is best. I agree Wy-slick, the pattern you tried was rather difficult for a beginner. Our basic course that we teach at Tandy every month consist of a halfback with simple lines and another halfback with swivel cuts that we use to instruct/practice the day of the class.

Good luck

Edited January 18, 2010 by King's X