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JRedding

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Hello Everyone,

Found this forum a couple of weeks ago and haven't had time to fill it out. My wife and I run a small saddle shop in Northeastern, Utah and thought we would share some photo's of our recent work with you. We know how much you like pictures. Hope it works.

Cheyenne_sdl1_copy.jpg

Cheyenne_top_copy.jpg

H.jpg

Your work is very professional looking! I especially like the desert scene belt. Kat

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Like everyone else, I'm very much impressed with your work. It's incredibly well-done! I'm afraid I'm going to have to ask you to explain your staining technique on those pieces -- especially the last belt in the opening post.

Thanks for sharing your fantastic artwork,

L'Bum

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Like everyone else, I'm very much impressed with your work. It's incredibly well-done! I'm afraid I'm going to have to ask you to explain your staining technique on those pieces -- especially the last belt in the opening post.

Thanks for sharing your fantastic artwork,

L'Bum

This finish is not stained at all. It is just oiled and antiqued.

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Beautiful!!!!! And how much do you want for the mesa belt?? John (aka: Discgolfer)

John, Thanks for the compliment, I do those for 225.00 it takes about six hours to complete one of those start to finish.

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Well, I did fail English a couple times in school. I think I may have misled you, I believe we're practicing the same method, except I refer to that part as flow lines and I didn't tell you that. My mistake. If that seems unorthodox someday we'll talk about my opinion on casing leather that I hear so much about on here.

JR,

You mentioned your opinions on casing leather, I would like to here more about that. I case for forming gullets ,fork covers, seats, cantel bindings, getting the stretch out of stirrup leathers. I tool fairly dry though, and just add moisture as needed with a sponge or spay bottle.Maybe you could start a new thread on this subject.

Thanks Steve

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Beautiful work...I'm impressed. RE: your saddle's finish: do you do the usual Sheridan style technique? (dye background, neatlac, antique, tan-kote?) All your work is great and I love the belt...looks like a little Sylvia Fox style painting on that one?

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Beautiful work...I'm impressed. RE: your saddle's finish: do you do the usual Sheridan style technique? (dye background, neatlac, antique, tan-kote?) All your work is great and I love the belt...looks like a little Sylvia Fox style painting on that one?

You're pretty close except I didn't dye the background, if you use small bargrounders and do the antique just right it kind of looks like you did though, I don't do dye background unless I'm asked, too much contrast for me.

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Awesome absolutely awesome !!! I love it.

ArtS

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BEAUTIFUL work. That is just amazing to me.

Regards Buff

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Thanks for your input JR. Are you using the small Barry King bargrounders? Whatever, I love the effect. And, is there any paint on that fantastic belt? The lighting in the sky above the mountains is really nice.

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How do you apply your antique and what antique do you use?

Thanks,

ArtS

You're pretty close except I didn't dye the background, if you use small bargrounders and do the antique just right it kind of looks like you did though, I don't do dye background unless I'm asked, too much contrast for me.

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Thanks for your input JR. Are you using the small Barry King bargrounders? Whatever, I love the effect. And, is there any paint on that fantastic belt? The lighting in the sky above the mountains is really nice.

I have bargrounders from Kings and some from Chuck Smith I don't remember which ones may have been used on that saddle. And the scenery part of that belt is done in acrylic and the background portion is just Feibings oil dye.

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How do you apply your antique and what antique do you use?

Thanks,

ArtS

Art, we apply antique with a small sponge for an applicator, you don't want to just smear it on and wipe it off, use a little at a time and scrub it into the tooling to fill every cut in all directions, and buff it off with a wool scrap the same way, we scrub the hell out of it, any antique that won't endure a good buffing doesn't get to stay. And we use Feibings like everybody else, the color of antique just depends on what look you're going for, mahogany, black, and sometimes sheridan brown are the only colors we ever use.

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Thanks for the info.

The reason I ask is I'm working on my second saddle. Just a beginner. I can't decide if I should just put a top coat or if I should antique it. I really liked the way your saddle looked an now you have me thinking. Attached is a picture of mine so far. It's slow going since I have so little time to work on it. What do you put on after the antique, Resolene?

ArtS

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Thanks for the info.

The reason I ask is I'm working on my second saddle. Just a beginner. I can't decide if I should just put a top coat or if I should antique it. I really liked the way your saddle looked an now you have me thinking. Attached is a picture of mine so far. It's slow going since I have so little time to work on it. What do you put on after the antique, Resolene?

ArtS

Art, I can't recomend resolene, we tried it and didn't like the results, we use tan-kote, bag-kote, harness dressing, or neat-lac depending on the finish we're trying to get. the saddle you're working on looks like a good start, you're ground work on the seat looks good. I know there a lot of ways to put one together , and no one really does it the same but I'm curious why the riggings on after the swell cover and bottom skirts? I'm only asking because if that saddle ever went in for repairs like needed a horn cover or relined someone will have to pull the riggings to do it, that's just extra work. Assuming a saddle that style will have strings, are you planning on drilling and stringing it and how with the skirts already on?

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I'll be using screws not strings. The strings will be on D rings under the conchos. The reason of that I did it that was is being a novice and not following the book as I should. LOL If it ever goes in for repairs it will be me repairing it I hope. I'll do it right next time. I haven't been happy with Resolene either. It streaks when I use it.

Would you use antique on something like this? I appreciate any help and advice I can get.

Thanks,

Art

Art, I can't recomend resolene, we tried it and didn't like the results, we use tan-kote, bag-kote, harness dressing, or neat-lac depending on the finish we're trying to get. the saddle you're working on looks like a good start, you're ground work on the seat looks good. I know there a lot of ways to put one together , and no one really does it the same but I'm curious why the riggings on after the swell cover and bottom skirts? I'm only asking because if that saddle ever went in for repairs like needed a horn cover or relined someone will have to pull the riggings to do it, that's just extra work. Assuming a saddle that style will have strings, are you planning on drilling and stringing it and how with the skirts already on?

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I'll be using screws not strings. The strings will be on D rings under the conchos. The reason of that I did it that was is being a novice and not following the book as I should. LOL If it ever goes in for repairs it will be me repairing it I hope. I'll do it right next time. I haven't been happy with Resolene either. It streaks when I use it.

Would you use antique on something like this? I appreciate any help and advice I can get.

Thanks,

Art

Art, whether you antique it or not is just a personal preference, it will look good either way. You mention following the book, what book are you referencing to?

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Harry Adams Saddlemakers Shop Manual. Actually looking back at it he did it the same way. The swell cover was on first then the rigging. Thats probably why I did it I guess.

ArtS

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The belt does look to me like you've described it. Very very nice. Thank you for replying to my posts...I appreciate the effort.

Edited by SStewart

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Beautiful, very very classy

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