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Henge

The Best Rivets For Me

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I've been searching all over to find exactly what I need. If it's already posted somewhere and I missed it, my apologies.

I make things like dog collars and chokers and have found that jiffy and rapid rivets are just not strong enough.

So I need to know what what kind and where I can get rivets that:

- are silver colored to match the rest of the hardware
- are capped on both sides because sometimes they are right against people's skin
- are pretty strong

And I really would like to be able to get them without a wholesale tax code. I really don't produce enough to justify getting one.

I really appreciate any advice, information or help any one can provide. Thank you so much!

Edited by Henge

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I dont know about peoples skin.....but my favorite are the Tubelar Rivets.

but make sure they are set right.

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I'm also interested in this for my knife sheaths and dog collars/harnesses. I have found several places that sell steel and aluminum solid rivets like the copper ones you can get from Tandy, but you would have to find washers to fit them, and I'm pretty sure they have to be bought in larger quantities than I would personally need. Maybe a group-buy would work out if enough people are interested?

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I've been buying double-capped rivets from this ebay seller. These are some other make than what Tandy sells. He claims they are better, and I agree.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Quality-54-GUN-Metal-BLACK-RIVETS-LEATHER-/200464217240?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eac993498

Kate

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Those are the Belgian Jiffy rivets that Ohio Travel Bag sells.

I've been buying double-capped rivets from this ebay seller. These are some other make than what Tandy sells. He claims they are better, and I agree.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Quality-54-GUN-Metal-BLACK-RIVETS-LEATHER-/200464217240?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eac993498

Kate

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Are you sure they're attached right/hard enough (or the right size)?

I use Jiffy rivets (Belgium) and if I attache two pieces I can hang in them without them braking on me. I use a rivet press and it works beautifully:-)

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My two cents, Why would you not just use Chicago Screws? They can add style, are very strong, no need for presses or setters, allow for buckle changes, etc etc. The only rivets we work with are copper or brass, every thing else gets chicago screws.

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You might look at these. On the Home Page click tubular rivet and look far right at Roll Clinched Rivet. Scroll to mil spec. I know what you're talking about. Ray Allen puts them on their mil spec leashes and harness, and these are the closest I've seen to theirs.

http://www.hansonrivet.com/

Edited by Billsotx

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You might look at these. On the Home Page click tubular rivet and look far right at Roll Clinched Rivet. Scroll to mil spec. I know what you're talking about. Ray Allen puts them on their mil spec leashes and harness, and these are the closest I've seen to theirs.

http://www.hansonrivet.com/

Can I buy things from them without a wholesale tax i.d. code?

To answer Dusty Leather, Chicago Screws are not flat enough on both sides and an cause points of pressure or abrasion when against skin. In my experience anyway.

To answer Tina: I'm pretty sure I'm attaching them right. I've done it according to all instructions and just to make sure I've experimented with sizes in the hole, post and anything else I could think of. I even tried reinforcing them with metal glues.

Luke Hatley, I keep thinking that tubular rivets with caps instead of washers and set with a press are the way to go. But I'm not sure where I can get the proper dies for the press to set them with without a tax code.

Thank you everyone for your help and thoughts!

Edited by Henge

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I had a bit of trouble setting tandy rivets when I started out ....the main problem for me was the lower cap anvil ...one its really made for setting snaps I feel...and is used to set rivets but to me its not optimal way of doing it...I had 2 hand setters....so i had a washer welded around one....and slip in in a printle hole in my bench anvil...it gives me a solid base to start...and also can see your hammering straight on the rivet also.... I use small taps with a mallet and can feel the rivet setting...when it tightens up to where i want it...I leave it I may look at it once or twice as its tightening up...I have not had any trouble with them pulling out....some others here have...I have pulled with all i have before and cant get them apart if set right. this is my experience will post a pic of my setup also.

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I had a bit of trouble setting tandy rivets when I started out ....the main problem for me was the lower cap anvil ...one its really made for setting snaps I feel...and is used to set rivets but to me its not optimal way of doing it...I had 2 hand setters....so i had a washer welded around one....and slip in in a printle hole in my bench anvil...it gives me a solid base to start...and also can see your hammering straight on the rivet also.... I use small taps with a mallet and can feel the rivet setting...when it tightens up to where i want it...I leave it I may look at it once or twice as its tightening up...I have not had any trouble with them pulling out....some others here have...I have pulled with all i have before and cant get them apart if set right. this is my experience will post a pic of my setup also.

I've definitely felt the tandy rivets set. But they still pull out fairly quickly with normal use of the finished piece.

Thank you so much for your reply!

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