My Work

[rccolt45]

Hi guys,

Below you will find photos of some of my work. I have improved greately thanks to you all. But as you can see i need more help. I am most concerned with molding. I do not have a presss and mold by hand. The my lines are not as crips as I would like. I mold using my thumbs for most of it, a wooden dowl for inside the trigger gard and a kniting needls and ruler for the straight lines.

Please take a look and let me know what I can do to improve. Also - let me know if you think the only way I can get that really crip look is with a press.

thanks in advance.

Edited June 25, 2010 by rccolt45

[rccolt45]

[particle]

You most definitely don't need a holster press of any kind to produce a well defined holster. They help to "find" the gun, but you'll still need to cut in the details by hand. Get yourself a bone folder. You can probably find one at your local arts & craft store.

Do your initial forming while the holster is fresh out of the pan of water - it's easiest to manipulate and stretch the leather at this point with minimal risk of burnishing the leather. As the leather begins to dry a bit, you can start adding detail to the lines. Trying to add detail before this point in the drying stage will just be frustrating to you, as the leather will be too moist to hold any sharp detail. Begin with the round edge of the boning tool and push the leather down into the nooks and crannies - then slowly begin to turn the boning tool on edge and use it more like a knife - this will 'cut' in the detail and add definition to your holster.

Depending on how thick the leather is, and what quality of leather you're buying, .... well, regardless, it takes a lot of effort to conform the leather to the details of a firearm. I took Denster's advise and built a vacuum press since it's portable and I don't have a lot of floor space in my garage/shop. But I'm doing enough "volume" (5-10 a week) that I wanted to cut down on the initial forming effort. All of the holsters on my site were formed entirely by hand.

[rccolt45]

[Particle thanks for the info. I will find a bone folder and give it a try. Tell me who long do you holdyour holsters under the water and how long do you let them dry before you start molding?

thanks any other advice from anyone is welcome.

[particle]

I add a drop of dish soap to a pan, then fill it with water (not hot - just room temp). Then I soak the holster for 5-10 seconds, depending on how quickly it is absorbing the water. I probably favor 10 seconds, as I want to make sure the double-layer portions are plenty flexible so I can form the ejection port area first (after spending a minute or two actually forcing the gun into the freshly wet holster. But, I to answer your question - I dip then go straight to molding - I don't wait, and that's mainly because I want it as damp as possible when I attack the ejection port. The Avenger style is the worst as you're working against the stretched/compressed leather - it doesn't manipulate very easily.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

You don't need a press to get clean lines in a holster. Start out with your thumbs to get the lines to show, use a dowel to make the lines crisper and more defined, and once the holster is almost dry, chase the lines with the sharp end of a bone folder. (Springfield Leather Co. keeps real bone folders in stock - call Kevin and order a couple in case you break or chip one).

BTW, if I am using Hermann Oak or Wickett & Craig leather, I only dip the holster in for one second before pulling it out and shaking it off. Get the initial shaping done with your knuckles and thumbs while the holster is initially drying (be sure to trim your finger nails first), and do the detail work when the holster appears dry, but still feels damp. A good rule of thumb - If you are squishing water up on the surface with your boning tool, put it down for half an hour and come back to it.

[rccolt45]

Ok good advice thanks guys I have a crappy plastic bone folder from Tandy but am going to order a good one right now.

[rccolt45]

ok one more question. Right now I am using 7/8 oz leather for my IWB's. Should I go lighter do you think?

Would that help with molding?

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

I personally use 7 oz. leather for my IWB's, or two layers of 3/4 oz. bonded together. You can go lighter if you want to, and it will make the initial shaping a little easier, but it isn't really necessary to use lighter leather for good detail once you learn where the lines are on a given pistol.

[NoahL]

Personally, I like the soft lines in yours. I think that the super-crisp definition--while definitely a mark of a skilled leatherworker--can sometimes make holsters look plastic

*hides from the rocks about to be thrown at him*

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Personally, I like the soft lines in yours. I think that the super-crisp definition--while definitely a mark of a skilled leatherworker--can sometimes make holsters look plastic

*hides from the rocks about to be thrown at him*

Eh? Different strokes for different folks, I guess....

Now assume the position and prepare to take your verbal beating!!!

[mgoldschmidt]

I usually keep to my self and just read the forums and try to learn from you guys. But I have to agree with NoahL on this one. I agree it takes alot of craftsmanship to bone a holster to get all the fine lines and details. But I'm partial to the softer look. I like the look of nice hand molding to help with the retention and highlight the firearm and leave it at that. I think alot of holsters look like the leather has been sprayed on. I'm not an expert on holster building and probaly never will be as good as many of you., but I vote for the soft look. I quess I'll have to take my licks too.