Finishing Question

[desertw0lf]

Have a question - can I dye a product, oil it up with Neatsfoot oil, and then use Carnuba wax as a final finish without using eco-flo or other type of acrylic topcoat?

So :

Eco-Flo Black Dye,

Good coating of neatsfoot,

Rubdown with Carnuba wax, and buff with a microfiber cloth?

Or is that not enough for say, an IWB holster?

[Dwight]

This is a personal experience, . . . based on one incident, . . .

I used Eco Flow Black on a rough out shoulder holster some years ago.

I decided to forgo the usual Resolene treatment, . . . wanted to keep it really soft and pliable.

Rubbed it down really good to get rid of the powdered residue after it dried. Wore it a few days later to a funeral. It ruined my tee shirt, got black dye all over me. Yeah, I was unhappy.

Gave away the bottle of dye, use only oil based dyes now. Have not had any other similar incident.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Luke Hatley]

If it was me.....as long as there is Fiebings Black Oil Dye, that is the only dye

that i will use.....then finish the item like you said.

[whinewine]

Have a question - can I dye a product, oil it up with Neatsfoot oil, and then use Carnuba wax as a final finish without using eco-flo or other type of acrylic topcoat?

So :

Eco-Flo Black Dye,

Good coating of neatsfoot,

Rubdown with Carnuba wax, and buff with a microfiber cloth?

Or is that not enough for say, an IWB holster?

Short answer,

NO, if the dye is an eco flo product.

Eco flo is water based, so, in a moist/damp/wet environment, it needs to be sealed against H2O. Carnuba is only water resistant, as is tankote & a host of other 'finishes'. An acrylic top coat is ok; my personal choice is neatlac or clearlac or saddlelac: I would rather go for a shiny finish than have someones' clothes ruined because of dye bleed. Certain things like Aussie & Pecards do quite a good job (haven't tried Snoseal, but that might work well, too), but they can leave a greasy/oily finish, that, until totally absorbed, can also bleed onto clothes. Stuff like that is better suited for motorcycle seats, boots & the like, primarily as a water proofing & conditioning agent. I did a sheridan finish on a purse once, using antique, neatsfoot & Aussie:I packed it away at the end of the season & when I took it out for the first show of the next year, it was covered with a great deal of oily/waxy residue (obviously too much neatsfoot & perhaps Aussie). By wrapping in paper towels & using a heat gun, I finally got most of the oil/Aussie to migrate into the paper towels. Just my experience: the key is to experiment & find what works, but just remember, if it's water based, it needs to be appropriately sealed, especially in damp environments.