Italian Shoes Antique Effect

[newyorkleather]

This is a topic that I have been researching for quite a while, so I thought I would bring it up with some of the experts here on the forum. I am trying to achieve the beautiful luster that is present in handcrafted Italian men's shoes. The French shoemakers also do this effect on shoes and call it "patine e glacage" (most notably a brand called Berluti).

A picture is worth a thousand words, so I have posted a few sample images.

Though on the basic level, I know that antiquing and color variations can be achieved by using different coats of lighter and darker dye with a carnauba wax finish, experience shows me that you cannot quite get that lovely transition of color that way, as dyes tend to have a more blotchy demarkation instead of the "brush off" effect that is present with these Italian shoes. it would seem that the Italian shoemakers use a combination of creams, polishes, acetone (to lighten already dyed leather), special crust calfskins, and burnishing brushes. It still escapes me, however, how they are able to get those subtle shading effects in areas like perforation holes, in the stitching areas and around the tip and heel. From what I can tell -- and from extensive experimentation -- this simply cannot be achieved using conventional dyes or antiquing products. I have tried using dark shoe creams and polishes over a lighter dye and it simply doesn't darken the areas where they are applied. I wonder, therefore, what they are using to get those deep "chiaroscuro" effects on the leather.

Does anyone have experience of suggestions to provide?

Edited March 6, 2011 by newyorkleather

[Ferg]

This is a topic that I have been researching for quite a while, so I thought I would bring it up with some of the experts here on the forum. I am trying to achieve the beautiful luster that is present in handcrafted Italian men's shoes. The French shoemakers also do this effect on shoes and call it "patine e glacage" (most notably a brand called Berluti).

A picture is worth a thousand words, so I have posted a few sample images.

Though on the basic level, I know that antiquing and color variations can be achieved by using different coats of lighter and darker dye with a carnauba wax finish, experience shows me that you cannot quite get that lovely transition of color that way, as dyes tend to have a more blotchy demarkation instead of the "brush off" effect that is present with these Italian shoes. it would seem that the Italian shoemakers use a combination of creams, polishes, acetone (to lighten already dyed leather), special crust calfskins, and burnishing brushes. It still escapes me, however, how they are able to get those subtle shading effects in areas like perforation holes, in the stitching areas and around the tip and heel. From what I can tell -- and from extensive experimentation -- this simply cannot be achieved using conventional dyes or antiquing products. I have tried using dark shoe creams and polishes over a lighter dye and it simply doesn't darken the areas where they are applied. I wonder, therefore, what they are using to get those deep "chiaroscuro" effects on the leather.

Does anyone have experience of suggestions to provide?

I believe you could arrive at the effect using an Air Brush to apply the stain.

ferg

[newyorkleather]

I believe you could arrive at the effect using an Air Brush to apply the stain.

ferg

Thank you for the insight. It would seem that an airbrush would work to provide a darker cloudy effect in specific areas like the toe and heel, but I'm not quite sure it would give the nuances of the naturally aged effect. I think the ideal solution would be a dye that gets applied as a cream so that it doesn't all soak into the leather immediately but can be worked in with light coats. Perhaps a mixture of dye and polish or wax would work? Here is another picture that shows the effect of a darker color that seems to be worked in gradually with a cloth instead of being dyed heavily with a sponge.

[Ferg]

Thank you for the insight. It would seem that an airbrush would work to provide a darker cloudy effect in specific areas like the toe and heel, but I'm not quite sure it would give the nuances of the naturally aged effect. I think the ideal solution would be a dye that gets applied as a cream so that it doesn't all soak into the leather immediately but can be worked in with light coats. Perhaps a mixture of dye and polish or wax would work? Here is another picture that shows the effect of a darker color that seems to be worked in gradually with a cloth instead of being dyed heavily with a sponge.

If you are wanting to do this type of work, "break a leg" and buy an air brush. You will be amazed at what you can accomplish.

Personally, I wouldn't waste my time with trying to use cream dyes to accomplish this affect.

ferg

[Ton23]

Hello, I am new to shoemaking. I am now into finishing a shoe. Any advise what are the steps on finishing a shoe? 

Edited April 28, 2018 by Ton23

[Ton23]

On 07/03/2011 at 8:45 AM, Ferg said:

If you are wanting to do this type of work, "break a leg" and buy an air brush. You will be amazed at what you can accomplish.

Personally, I wouldn't waste my time with trying to use cream dyes to accomplish this affect.

ferg

Hello, I am new to shoemaking. I am now into finishing a shoe. Any advise what are the steps on finishing a shoe? 

[MY63]

I don't make shoes I don't have that skill set. I was recently asked to make a Fountain pen case for some really large pens inspired by a pair of English brogue shoes.

This is what I came up with. 

2018-04-22_09-22-19 by my0771, on Flickr

I left it with a mat effect burnishing and polishing will bring it to your desired finish. 

I used Fiebings Antique finish which I applied with a dauber and wiped off with dry kitchen towel. If it remained dark in an area I wanted light I rubbed it with a wet towel.

Air brushing dark dye over a lighter finish would give a similar effect.

[Ferg]

I am in no way criticizing folks who make the "Funky" looking shoes, whatever floats your boat.

If I ever decide to make a pair of good hand made shoes I want them to look like my well worn "Rockford" Loafers.

I figure the best way to get to that point is, very carefully take an old comfortable pair I have apart. Take many photos with a lot of commentary and markings. Find a pair of wooden lasts that will come close to my feet, I can alter them, and dive in. I don't wish to buy machinery I don't have, I may decide this is a pipe dream that I don't wish to encounter.

I have an idea this is going to be something I will pursue in the future. I think it would be a blast!!!

 

Ferg