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stanly

Low Voc Contact Cement?

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I've found that sometimes the Tanners Bond #C-1339 from Tandy just doesn't stick as well as I'd like.

Anyone tried this:

saw a "new" product from DAP at lumber store (daygo orange package, abut a 6 or 8 oz tube), claims to have 10 min set time.

http://www.dap.com/p...=76&SubcatID=10

01310.jpg

:whatdoyouthink:

reading the MSDS doesn't seem all that friendly until u read the info on other products.

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Unfortionatly, my experience with contact cement is the stick is very proportional to the smell. One that does not smell will likely fail.

Aaron

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I have a gallon of the green label Contact Cement found at Home Depot............works really well and no smell at all. This is good since I work out of my master bedroom.

Good luck

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I went ahead and bought a tube of the DAP® STRONGSTIK® Instant Grab Adhesive to try it out. It was about $3.60 for 5oz tube only thing label mentions as hazardious ingredient is Ethylene Glycol and crystalline silica. Will update on effectiveness.

Wonder how compares to the green label contact cement?

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I decided to test the 4 glues I found locally (hardware + Tandy).

While I didn't get all the way through due to hardward fail, I'm going to put up result anyway before wkend.

I'm also putting up the rig I'm using to test with in hope that others will join in and make this a more comprehensive test - esp like to hear from the green Weldwood, Masters, any homebrew that people use.

1.- 2" wide strip of TV dinner box folded in half and glued with shiny side out.

2.- use test glue to glue 2 of these strips (now 1" wide) toghther in a lap jount at end so there is 1/2" overlap.

3.- You should now should have 2 strips glued end to end by a 1/2" lap joint

4.- reinforce one of non glue test ends of strip by by glueing a 2" doubled strip around the end - this is end weight hangs from. (I punched hole and hung weight from nail/shoelace)

5.- attach weight system of choice (I'm went with fluid oz) and pick up slowly to avoid shock load.

glues: Gorilla glue (wood) Tanners Bond Strong Stik Hotmelt glue

fail: 1 gal + 20oz hardware hardward

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Ethylene Glycol is antifreeze. It's not volatile and shouldn't be a problem (unless you eat it!) It's listed as hazardous because Congress included it on the Hazardous Air Pollutant list in the 1990 Amendments to the Clean Air Act. They used annual production records to decide what they should list and a lot of antifreeze is manufactured. (Hydrogen sulfide, which is very toxic, is NOT on that same list. There are very few scientists in government.)

Gorilla glue is extremely strong and sticky. It's a polyurethane material that requires a bit of water to initiate polymerization. It tends to foam up, making it tough for some applications and it does give off some diisocyanates as it cures. I can't say for sure, buy it may damage leather over the long term.

Hotmelt glues might be your best bet. Very little emissions.

If you're just looking for something to tack a seam together, you might try "stick" glues.

Before someone mentions Superglue, it gives off cyanoacrylates, which can be irritating if you're in an area without ventillation.

Epoxys don't give off much in the way of fumes, but you have to mix them each time.

Elmer's glue (or the Wood glue alternatives) are good for indoor use, but they take awhile to dry.

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Looks like I can't edit, so....

over wkend-found out 1"x1/2" glue area was way too much unless I wanted to windup lifting 10gal., revised to 1/4"x1".

(Chart interpolated to reflect)

I'll continue as soon as I can rig to support/lift 5gal+

(milk jugs seem to be leaking @ caps)

glues:

Gorilla glue (wood)= 74oz

Tanners Bond = 1 gal+ 50oz

Strong Stik = 5gal+

Hotmelt glue = 5gal+

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