Traditional English Stitching Clamp

[chouinardragon]

Hi,

Anyone uses traditional English stitching clamp? The one like Blanchard sells. Picture attached (picture from a Japan leather tool seller).

I can't stab the awl vertically to the leather and it's not laying flat on my left thigh, it's kind of facing toward me.

Any tips when using it? Thanks!

Chris

[gary]

Chris,

I use a saddler's clam (or clams or clamps or clamp - depends who you talk to).

They are used with the base on the floor and the jaws are held between the legs with one jaw to left and one to the right. The leather is held in the jaws vertically so you have to stab and stitch horizontally left to right (or vice versa). You'll need to sit on a high chair or stool to get the leather at a comfortable working height.

I'm not sure about the set you are looking at but traditionally, saddler's clams were made of barrel staves - hence the shape - and are held together at the base ('1' in the attached photo) by a bolt. There is a bolt with a wing nut part way up the clams (at '2') that allows adjustment of the jaws' tension. At '3' there may be a staple on the inside of the jaw to which an adjustable strap may be attached and passed through a corresponding hole at '4' and then down to a stirrup which allows you to adjust jaw tension with your foot and can keep the clam more stable.

I keep a stack of odd-shaped bits of wood, plastic and foam nearby so I can put them inside anything I'm sewing that isn't a plain, flat shape which helps hold them in the jaws. You can also make or buy additional smaller clams that fit inside the jaws to allow you to sew rounds or keepers.

You may want to dress the inside of the jaws so they don't mark any leather you are sewing.

Hope that's of some help.

Gary

[chouinardragon]

Gary,

You said "The leather is held in the jaws vertically so you have to stab and stitch horizontally left to right (or vice versa)" but my stitch clamp is made to fold. So, the leather is not held in the jaws vertically.

The stitch clamp I have is used with the base on the floor and is held between on my left thigh and right let. I'm not a native English speaker, I can't express myself exactly, so please see attached picture.

It was taken at Hermes Festival of Crafts, showing a leatherworker who stitched a Kelly bag.

It seems that this kind of stitch clamp is not common in the US...

I have no idea if anyone here stitches in this way ... but I really need to know how to stitch in this way perfectly. Do you have any idea?

Chris

Chris,

I use a saddler's clam (or clams or clamps or clamp - depends who you talk to).

They are used with the base on the floor and the jaws are held between the legs with one jaw to left and one to the right. The leather is held in the jaws vertically so you have to stab and stitch horizontally left to right (or vice versa). You'll need to sit on a high chair or stool to get the leather at a comfortable working height.

I'm not sure about the set you are looking at but traditionally, saddler's clams were made of barrel staves - hence the shape - and are held together at the base ('1' in the attached photo) by a bolt. There is a bolt with a wing nut part way up the clams (at '2') that allows adjustment of the jaws' tension. At '3' there may be a staple on the inside of the jaw to which an adjustable strap may be attached and passed through a corresponding hole at '4' and then down to a stirrup which allows you to adjust jaw tension with your foot and can keep the clam more stable.

I keep a stack of odd-shaped bits of wood, plastic and foam nearby so I can put them inside anything I'm sewing that isn't a plain, flat shape which helps hold them in the jaws. You can also make or buy additional smaller clams that fit inside the jaws to allow you to sew rounds or keepers.

You may want to dress the inside of the jaws so they don't mark any leather you are sewing.

Hope that's of some help.

Gary

[gary]

Gary,

You said "The leather is held in the jaws vertically so you have to stab and stitch horizontally left to right (or vice versa)" but my stitch clamp is made to fold. So, the leather is not held in the jaws vertically.

The stitch clamp I have is used with the base on the floor and is held between on my left thigh and right let. I'm not a native English speaker, I can't express myself exactly, so please see attached picture.

It was taken at Hermes Festival of Crafts, showing a leatherworker who stitched a Kelly bag.

It seems that this kind of stitch clamp is not common in the US...

I have no idea if anyone here stitches in this way ... but I really need to know how to stitch in this way perfectly. Do you have any idea?

Chris

The clams are held vertically between the legs. This means that the leather is held vertically. You can lean the clams to one side or the other by about 40 dgrees.

I see in the picture that one of the jaws folds but I presume this is not to change the angle of the clams in use but to allow one jaw to move relative to the other so that they will open and close.

I would say from the photograph that, if I was using those clams, I would sit on a higher chair so that the clams are vertical.

I do not always need to see the stitch holes as I use a stitch pricker and can usually feel where the next stitch is to be. The position that chap is in looks awfully uncomfortable.

I will try and find someone to take a photo of me using my clams so you can see what I mean.

Gary

[gary]

The clams are held vertically between the legs. This means that the leather is held vertically. You can lean the clams to one side or the other by about 40 dgrees.

I see in the picture that one of the jaws folds but I presume this is not to change the angle of the clams in use but to allow one jaw to move relative to the other so that they will open and close.

I would say from the photograph that, if I was using those clams, I would sit on a higher chair so that the clams are vertical.

I do not always need to see the stitch holes as I use a stitch pricker and can usually feel where the next stitch is to be. The position that chap is in looks awfully uncomfortable.

I will try and find someone to take a photo of me using my clams so you can see what I mean.

Gary

I did a quick bit of research. The clamps you illustrate is/are a French Clamps used by harness-makers. Only one arm is hinged and there is no pressure to hold an item in the jaws apart from leg pressure.

I haven't found anyone to take a photo of me but I have hashed out a quick diagram (pardon the quality) that shows how they are held.

By using it upright (or nearly upright) I reduce back-ache and can see what I'm doing on both sides of the leather by moving my head a bit without having to reposition the clams to see the back side.

[chouinardragon]

Gary,

Nice diagram, thanks. I probably know how you use stitching clamp. Basically, it's the same as stitching pony,right?

Regarding to French clamp, on the end of the French clamp is tappered, that's why they don't sit higher but lower.

It's quite uncomfortable in that position but the marks made by the pricking iron are visible.

Still figuring out how to stitch perfectly by using French clamp.

Maybe all I need is practice and practice and practice ... ...

Chris

I did a quick bit of research. The clamps you illustrate is/are a French Clamps used by harness-makers. Only one arm is hinged and there is no pressure to hold an item in the jaws apart from leg pressure.

I haven't found anyone to take a photo of me but I have hashed out a quick diagram (pardon the quality) that shows how they are held.

By using it upright (or nearly upright) I reduce back-ache and can see what I'm doing on both sides of the leather by moving my head a bit without having to reposition the clams to see the back side.

[fivewayswelshcobs]

Hi I also use clams with a stirrup to keep the pressure on the leather being stitched but mine are normally fastened to a bench with 2 straps (one on each side) just so they do not move about and they are easier to lean to the left so you can see the stitch marks. In theory the stitcher shouldn`t look at the back but I think everyone does. We were also told to sit with the legs on the left with the right foot in the stirrup (do not know if this is the same for both sexes?) but I never got the hang of that so I use the left foot in the stirrup. The advantage of fastening the clams is that when you get up the angle is much easier to find again- but everyone has their own preference and it gets easier with practice. You will need to match the seat to the clams as you need to find a comfortable height for your arms to avoid too much strain. For shows I take a stitching pony/horse as the stitching feel is very similar but at a lower height and I do not need to take my bench with me !

[gary]

Gary,

Nice diagram, thanks. I probably know how you use stitching clamp. Basically, it's the same as stitching pony,right?

Regarding to French clamp, on the end of the French clamp is tappered, that's why they don't sit higher but lower.

It's quite uncomfortable in that position but the marks made by the pricking iron are visible.

Still figuring out how to stitch perfectly by using French clamp.

Maybe all I need is practice and practice and practice ... ...

Chris

Chris,

I hope my input helped.

Gary

[evandailey]

Hi,

Anyone uses traditional English stitching clamp? The one like Blanchard sells. Picture attached (picture from a Japan leather tool seller).

I can't stab the awl vertically to the leather and it's not laying flat on my left thigh, it's kind of facing toward me.

Any tips when using it? Thanks!

Chris

Try this video.

[chouinardragon]

Thanks, buddy.

I've been watching this video over and over and over again. It really helps.

Thank you.

Chris

Try this video.

[chouinardragon]

Gary,

You really help a lot, thank you. I've been stitching these days. I'm doing okay with two layers of 5oz leather but not okay with 8oz leather.

What thickness would you recommend to start with for a beginner?

Chris

Chris,

I hope my input helped.

Gary

[chouinardragon]

Hi fivewayswelshcobs,

Thank you. I've been stitching these days and the stitches are getting better. I try to stitch mechanically and it works, though there are few stitches are irregular. I am still happy with the result.

After stitching, I feel numb on my back and left arm... I think my stitch clam is too long to work for me.

Chris

Hi I also use clams with a stirrup to keep the pressure on the leather being stitched but mine are normally fastened to a bench with 2 straps (one on each side) just so they do not move about and they are easier to lean to the left so you can see the stitch marks. In theory the stitcher shouldn`t look at the back but I think everyone does. We were also told to sit with the legs on the left with the right foot in the stirrup (do not know if this is the same for both sexes?) but I never got the hang of that so I use the left foot in the stirrup. The advantage of fastening the clams is that when you get up the angle is much easier to find again- but everyone has their own preference and it gets easier with practice. You will need to match the seat to the clams as you need to find a comfortable height for your arms to avoid too much strain. For shows I take a stitching pony/horse as the stitching feel is very similar but at a lower height and I do not need to take my bench with me !

[gary]

Gary,

You really help a lot, thank you. I've been stitching these days. I'm doing okay with two layers of 5oz leather but not okay with 8oz leather.

What thickness would you recommend to start with for a beginner?

Chris

It depends on what you're making. If you're just stitching scraps for pratice I'd start with leather that is stiff enough to give some resistance as you stitch but not so thick you have to expend a lot of muscle to push the awl through. I usually work with bridle leather or bag hide, so 2mm tp 4mm thick.

Gary

[fivewayswelshcobs]

Try using a higher seat, I have found a draughtmans chair the best height for my clams as my arms are at a more normal angle but I remember when I started it took a while to find what suited me. With practice the tension in your arms and back will reduce as you relax also the stitching will improve as tension knocks the stitches out of line. If the clams are fastened it is one less thing to worry about. even now if I get tense for whatever reason my stitching is not always as good as I want.

Hi fivewayswelshcobs,

Thank you. I've been stitching these days and the stitches are getting better. I try to stitch mechanically and it works, though there are few stitches are irregular. I am still happy with the result.

After stitching, I feel numb on my back and left arm... I think my stitch clam is too long to work for me.

Chris

[chouinardragon]

Hello fivewayswelshcobs,

I've been practicing these days... I feel comfortable while stitching.

Recently, I found my stitches on the upper don't hold the angle, they are kind of "flat" (see P1). But, stitches on the other side hold the angle (see P2). Do you know why?

Pictures as attached. I stitched with 35/3 linen thread, 12 spi, on 3mm leather.

Chris

Try using a higher seat, I have found a draughtmans chair the best height for my clams as my arms are at a more normal angle but I remember when I started it took a while to find what suited me. With practice the tension in your arms and back will reduce as you relax also the stitching will improve as tension knocks the stitches out of line. If the clams are fastened it is one less thing to worry about. even now if I get tense for whatever reason my stitching is not always as good as I want.

[Chef niloc]

This place sells them, but they won't ship to the US

http://www.bowstock.co.uk/acatalog/Stitching_clamps.html

[The Hub]

I too have been looking to craft or purchase a stitching clam. In French, it is known as a "Pince à Coudre". A quick google search yielded this video, hosted on Vimeo, which appears to document the manufacture of a Vergez Blanchard stitcing clam.

http://vimeo.com/22194742

After reading an earlier post about these devices being made of barrel staves, I decided to purchase a few barrel staves from a seller on eBay. I just purchased 5 made from white oak for $25 including shipping, and I plan to use them to fashion my own stitching clam. I'll post pictures when it's finished.

[David T]

I have some experience using French stitching clamps (pince à coudre) that I hope will help others.

In order to properly use this stitching clamp, you should position the clamp between your legs at a slight angle. Rest the hinged jaw on your left thigh (if you are right-handed; reverse the instructions for left-handed). The foot of the clamp must be firmly on the floor. The stationary jaw and the weight of the rest of the clamp (plus a little bit of additional pressure applied to the clamp by your right leg) will easily hold any item in place between the jaws. Orientation should be somewhere around 20-30 degrees off of vertical, so that you can more easily see both sides of the item to be stitched. Any more vertical, though, and the item you're stitching will likely slip out because there won't be enough applied pressure to keep the jaws clamped together. You won't be able to keep the jaws firmly shut, solely by squeezing your thighs together; it's just too tiring. The stitching clamp must be tilted. However, too horizontal an angle and there will be excessive pressure on your left thigh, making it very uncomfortable.

This means a couple of things must be taken into account simultaneously, for optimal use: 1) the actual, total length of the clamp; and, 2) the height of your chair or stool.

If you tend to vary where you sit when working, and your work chairs are of wildly differing heights, your stitching experience will suffer. So, instead of looking for a higher chair, as suggested in another post, just select a comfortable seat and standardize on that height for hand-stitching. Then, the next thing to do is to CUSTOMIZE your stitching clamp by cutting off small pieces from the end of your clamp (maybe 1", or even 1/2", at a time), and continually test the "feel" of the clamp until it seems to be the right length. The clamp probably is already angled at the bottom end, where it rests on the floor; this angle should be maintained with each cut.

At the correct length, you should be able to vary the pressure on the jaws by simply opening or closing your legs slightly. The bottom end should be wedged against the floor and sticking out to the side; maybe a foot or so to the right of your legs (again, only if you happen to be right-handed). Don't be too quick to shorten the clamp excessively; it will be tough to make it longer again should you cut off too much. Eventually, you can also pad the cut end by cementing a patch of leather to the bottom to help protect your floors.

I actually had 2 chairs of different heights that I used regularly (one was a folding portable stool for doing demos at exhibits and craft fairs; the other seat was exclusively for the workshop); so, I customized a separate French stitching clamp for each chair to make it easier on me.

Of course, once you optimize the length of a French stitching clamp for yourself, it might not be comfortable for anyone else to use. Though, maybe someone could design an adjustable-height stitching clamp to make it universally usable by anyone, of any size, in a seat of almost any height!

I hope this helps.

Note: Thanks to The Hub for the video on manufacturing a French stitching clamp. Very nice. Check out the section where the craftsman mentions that the clamp has to be tilted to keep jaw pressure on the item to be stitched.

[Mijo]

Hub - If it turns out well and you make some additional ones, i'd be interested in purchasing one from you (depending on the price). I don't like the tandy lacing pony that I'm currently using and I can't seem to find a clamp on ebay.

[Capt Jas]

The fellow in the 18tu century image in the link below is demonstrating correct form for French clam use.

http://artflx.uchicago.edu/images/encyclopedie/V19/plate_19_13_1.jpeg