Rex 11-155R Competency Question

[amcardon]

Hey guys, I've been asked to make some 2-layer leather belts for Christmas presents but do not feel like hand sewing 8 belts! Anyway, I have access to a Rex 11-155R machine but I've never used an industrial machine before and was hoping to get some input... Does anybody on here know if that machine would be up to the task? Any suggestions on thread/needle combo? I've only ever done sewing by hand (knife sheaths, gun holsters, and a few rifle slings, all saddle stitch) so this is a whole new ball of wax for me!

[Trox]

Hi, Ask Wizcraft, he has an Rex machine and should know them.

Trox

Hey guys, I've been asked to make some 2-layer leather belts for Christmas presents but do not feel like hand sewing 8 belts! Anyway, I have access to a Rex 11-155R machine but I've never used an industrial machine before and was hoping to get some input... Does anybody on here know if that machine would be up to the task? Any suggestions on thread/needle combo? I've only ever done sewing by hand (knife sheaths, gun holsters, and a few rifle slings, all saddle stitch) so this is a whole new ball of wax for me!

[CowboyBob]

Yes,it should handle the belts ok,just be sure to hold on to the needle thread the first 3 stitches as this machine doesn't have a safety clutch & you take a chance of knocking it out of time.

Bob

[Wizcrafts]

Hi, Ask Wizcraft, he has an Rex machine and should know them.

Trox

I have no such machine! I posted an ad for a friend who had a different model Rex, which he sold about a year ago.

I have a National 300N, which I modified. It now has the specs of a Juki LU-1508 NH.

[amcardon]

Thanks guys! Hopefully I don't screw up my buddy's machine I've been looking around to buy one but as a hobbyist leatherworker in med school with 3 kids, it's just not too high on the priority list (just high on the "I want" list!).

Thanks again!

[Wizcrafts]

You will not hurt the machine if you use #138 bonded nylon thread and hold back the threads (together) each time you start a new stitch line. Once the top and bottom thread have locked together, let go and guide the work. A #22 or #23 leather point needle produces the best result with #138 thread.

The machine will have a knee lever under the table to raise the presser feet and remove the tension from the top thread. There will be an external bobbin winder at the rear, which engages with a push lever against the drive belt, then automatically releases when the bobbin is full. Load a bobbin with thread if there isn't one already loaded with the color you need. Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case so the thread feeds against the direction of rotation. This keeps it under steady tension and counteracts the tendency to unload itself inside the case, when you stop and restart suddenly (as beginners tend to do).

Bring some scrap leather to learn on and to balance the tensions to get the position of the knots inside the leather.

The machine probably has a push down lever to put the machine into reverse, to lock the stitches (backtacking). If so, do one stitch forward, then two in reverse, then let go the lever and sew the rest of the way in forward. When you come to the tip, slow down and hand wheel around it. When you reach the other end of the belt. back stitch 3 stitches and stop. Lift the presser feet with the knee lever and pull the work out. Cut the threads close to the leather and you're good to go!

If the machine has a clutch motor, you'll need to practice running the machine without thread. It will take a while to get the hang of feathering the clutch for slow speed sewing. Use your toe on the top of the floor pedal to slowly engage the clutch. It's like driving a clutch car; the same thing but different!

If the presser feet on your friend's Rex have teeth on the bottom, you will have to reduce the top spring pressure until it just holds down the leather as you sew. Then, you may have to rub out the tooth marks with a slicker or modeling spoon. If the machine has smooth feet, no problem.