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"sizing" Leather: How's It Done

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As a newbie I'm asking things that probably don't even register as first-rung questions but here's a little combination.

I'm looking to build a simple project or five as part of my introduction to leatherworking--and I'm starting to see where this just might get to be habit forming. I see consistent references to stock that is 2oz or 6oz or whatever. Is that ounces per square foot or something along those lines? Does the weight (I'm guessing an indicator of thickness) indicate what type of leather it may be (deer, goat, cow, elephant, full or split) or is it just one of several qualifiers that I will eventually learn to fit into the equation of a wise buy?

Not complaining, just happily ignorant and working on being thoroughly overwhelmed.

Thanks.

ara

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As a newbie I'm asking things that probably don't even register as first-rung questions but here's a little combination.

I'm looking to build a simple project or five as part of my introduction to leatherworking--and I'm starting to see where this just might get to be habit forming. I see consistent references to stock that is 2oz or 6oz or whatever. Is that ounces per square foot or something along those lines? Does the weight (I'm guessing an indicator of thickness) indicate what type of leather it may be (deer, goat, cow, elephant, full or split) or is it just one of several qualifiers that I will eventually learn to fit into the equation of a wise buy?

Not complaining, just happily ignorant and working on being thoroughly overwhelmed.

Thanks.

ara

Hi Ara:

I know what you mean. I spent several months trying to understand the different leather weights. I found this and bookmarked it. Perhaps it will help you.

http://www.brettunsv...onversions.html

I hope that helps some. I can't find it now but I did see a site somewhere that compared the thicknesses to American coins. **** ha ha ha... just saw that Coin info near the bottom of that page!

Syl

Edited by Sylvia

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Holy crow that seems complicated - 1 ounce = 1/64th of an inch, give er take - easy peasy :) (8/64 = 8 oz = approx 1/8 thick) Can't remember where I got that from but it seems to work.

I have a digital micrometer (for reasons besides leather) that I use all the time when judging leather - I find a piece of leather that "feels right" for the job at hand, measure the thickness in inches, and then multiply the answer by 64 to get the "ounce" weight that I need to order. So far the combination of micrometer and intuition has done good :)

Hope it helps

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Things would be much easier and understandable if the metric system would be used in your part of the world! :innocent:

/ Knut

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Thanks so much for the link, Syl. Most helpful.

For what it's worth I've gotten a larger mallet, a couple of stamps (3, actually), some thread (brown & black), needles, a few curved specialty needles, and I'm ordering some stain and edge stain and some other stuff I have in a cart. Also already got a stitch layout embosser set. I need a stamping board and for now my thought is to get a poly cutting board. Please tell me if you think that is a mistake and what your suggestion is either way. For cutting (for now) I will likely just stick with my Stanley razor knife that I used as a contractor and pick up an xacto knife or set. A dial-type hole punch is on the horizon but for now I'm thinking of using my existing Dremel tool with small bits for making stitch holes. Awls in the future possibly but not immediate unless experienced people tell me different.

Immediate projects (not started yet but will get appropriate leather bought and start January sometime) are a pocket pouch or two for keys and the ever valuable "stuff" that eats pants Then a hawk sheath out of 8 oz hide, I'm guessing cow, for a Cold Steel Trail Hawk I've had for a while. Very handy tool and there is an excellent 3-part video series on YouTube I'll use. Once that's done the plan is to design and execute a belt loop for the hawk with an integrated pouch for a maintenance and sharpening file for the hawk and other blades I carry in the field. File pouch will likely be 3/4" wide by 6-8" long to receive a single cut file with the tang cut off. One thought is to oil the interior of the file holster 1) to retard water intrusion into the rust-hungry file housing area and 2) to keep a hint of light oil in the immediate proximity of the file itself. The great outdoors is not real friendly toward unprotected tool steel.

Note to self: I'll need snaps and an anvil/setting outfit for this. Also need water proofing finish. Oil? Water base acrylic of some sort?

I'm really excited to get into this.

Again. Syl, thank you. Leatherworker is a great site!

ara

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Thanks so much for the link, Syl. Most helpful.

For what it's worth I've gotten a larger mallet, a couple of stamps (3, actually), some thread (brown & black), needles, a few curved specialty needles, and I'm ordering some stain and edge stain and some other stuff I have in a cart. Also already got a stitch layout embosser set. I need a stamping board and for now my thought is to get a poly cutting board. Please tell me if you think that is a mistake and what your suggestion is either way. For cutting (for now) I will likely just stick with my Stanley razor knife that I used as a contractor and pick up an xacto knife or set. A dial-type hole punch is on the horizon but for now I'm thinking of using my existing Dremel tool with small bits for making stitch holes. Awls in the future possibly but not immediate unless experienced people tell me different.

Immediate projects (not started yet but will get appropriate leather bought and start January sometime) are a pocket pouch or two for keys and the ever valuable "stuff" that eats pants Then a hawk sheath out of 8 oz hide, I'm guessing cow, for a Cold Steel Trail Hawk I've had for a while. Very handy tool and there is an excellent 3-part video series on YouTube I'll use. Once that's done the plan is to design and execute a belt loop for the hawk with an integrated pouch for a maintenance and sharpening file for the hawk and other blades I carry in the field. File pouch will likely be 3/4" wide by 6-8" long to receive a single cut file with the tang cut off. One thought is to oil the interior of the file holster 1) to retard water intrusion into the rust-hungry file housing area and 2) to keep a hint of light oil in the immediate proximity of the file itself. The great outdoors is not real friendly toward unprotected tool steel.

Note to self: I'll need snaps and an anvil/setting outfit for this. Also need water proofing finish. Oil? Water base acrylic of some sort?

I'm really excited to get into this.

Again. Syl, thank you. Leatherworker is a great site!

ara

Don't go buying a "stamping board." Just go to your local Granite Counter Top Place... and ask if they have any off cuts or sink cuts you can have. I got a nice hunk of Granite counter top about the size of a sink... for free. Saved gobs on shipping. This stuff is just scrap to them and it's already been paid for by the person who had the counter top installed... more than likely you'll get yours free too.

Edited by Sylvia

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I have a digital micrometer (for reasons besides leather) that I use all the time when judging leather - I find a piece of leather that "feels right" for the job at hand, measure the thickness in inches, and then multiply the answer by 64 to get the "ounce" weight that I need to order. :)

Zowie, McJeep! A gizmo!! Better, a gizmo and a PLAN!!

If I can still find my pocket slide caliper that could be a real deal.

Thank you, thank you!

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Things would be much easier and understandable if the metric system would be used in your part of the world! :innocent:

/ Knut

We use it... sometimes. I remember back when I was in 3rd grade or so they tried to convert us all to Metric. Ha! Frankly I don't see well enough to be certain of how many millimeters I am looking at.

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Zowie, McJeep! A gizmo!! Better, a gizmo and a PLAN!!

If I can still find my pocket slide caliper that could be a real deal.

Thank you, thank you!

You would be surprised how many tools you already have on hand can be used for this. I'm about to go chuck up my stamps in the garage on the hubby's drill press and see how it will work as a stamping press. (no power of course) But then again I consider myself resourceful enough to use what I have and make it work through ingenuity. The Dremel tool for a hole punch is a great idea. I know a gal at my local leather and fireworks place. LOL uses a hand drill to punch all her leather. I just used a car buffer to buff a leather purse. I also found out that a Jollytime popcorn 8 pack box fits 6 bottles of Angeles 3oz dye in their boxes perfectly. That way I can label the tops and they are contained and less likely to be dashing around in my box. (Little devils)

A tackle box works well as a leather tool box too if you aren't able to set up a shop area where you can leave things out. A small vise and a book makes a great temporary stitching pony. A spring loaded center punch is a great marking tool. I even use some of my map making tools for their stenciling abilities. (That reminds me, I need to make some map weights) I used a piece of a G string to de-burr one of my groovers recently. :eusa_naughty: not THAT kind of G string! The G string on the guitar. lol I also discovered that my paint brush and double sided water reservoir is awesome for this purpose. it holds my sponge on one side and I have water for the paint brushes on the other side.

This sort of reminds me of something that I became aware of during the past few years. It seems to me that many of our "young ones" have lost their ability to imagine the other possibilities. I think that is because they spend to much time playing with things like the computer and other "instant entertainment" electronics. I sure hope it doesn't come back to bite us. (or has it already?)

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. . .Just go to your local Granite Counter Top Place... and ask if they have any off cuts or sink cuts you can have. . .

Hold that thought--back in a flash.

Well, the two places in town are closed--it's Saturday, after all--but I left messages with each. What a great idea!

I'll let you know how that works out.

ara

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Hold that thought--back in a flash.

Well, the two places in town are closed--it's Saturday, after all--but I left messages with each. What a great idea!

I'll let you know how that works out.

ara

Ha ha ha. Yeah that's what happened to me too.

Salida Colorado huh? I have loads of Guitar playing friends down there in Colorado. Ever heard of Jim Deeming? http://www.jimsguitar.com He lives in Berthoud, I guess that's a ways north of you.

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Zowie, McJeep! A gizmo!! Better, a gizmo and a PLAN!!

If I can still find my pocket slide caliper that could be a real deal.

Thank you, thank you!

LOL, no problem - as for the dremel idea you mentioned, I'd go buy a stitching awl instead - drill bits remove leather and leave ugly tracks where the awls just *part* the actual hide and the hole heals around the thread better - the rotary hole punches for when you do lacing etc work well but are hand intensive - I prefer the single punches and a small mallet - it also allows me to clamp the piece down with a straight edge as a guide to ensure that the holes end up being true.

Have fun - LOTS to learn - I'm still a rookie but 95% of what I have learned has been from the masters on this board that are generous enough to share decades of experience.

And for what it's worth - I'm hammering away on a discarded sink cutout too LOL :)

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1324099735[/url]' post='224714']

Hi Ara:

I know what you mean. I spent several months trying to understand the different leather weights. I found this and bookmarked it. Perhaps it will help you.

http://www.brettunsv...onversions.html

I hope that helps some. I can't find it now but I did see a site somewhere that compared the thicknesses to American coins. **** ha ha ha... just saw that Coin info near the bottom of that page!

Syl

Here is another link that might help http://www.tandyleatherfactory.ca/en-cad/home/infoandservices/leatherguide/leatherguide.aspx

Edited by northmount

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nice! saved for when people start talking millimeters ;0)

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Hold that thought--back in a flash.

Well, the two places in town are closed--it's Saturday, after all--but I left messages with each. What a great idea!

I'll let you know how that works out

Well, I finally got out to the shop with my stamps and a rounder. I chucked up the camoflager, lowered the drill press table, slid a piece of board over the drill hole in the table, stuck my rounder on the table and started "pressing." It seems to work well. But I can see where a "guide" might be necessary or perhaps I need to be seated so I can have a better vantage point to see what I'm doing because while standing I managed to get the design off the line. Good thing it was just a trial run!

Here's a Picture.

post-26936-092049900 1324246108_thumb.jp

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