Complete Overhaul Of Lockstitch Sewing Machine

[elZeeko]

Sewing machine college continues...

Just found a nice new-looking Brother DB2-B755-3 on Craigslist and jumped to buy it. 'Good shape, ready to go just needs oil'.

The guy delivered it and talked me up for about an hour about everything from his back pain to mountain lions and making him a holster for his sawed-off shotgun to the beater 1980s Nissan 4x4 pickups that he and his brother use to keep the brush down along the fire roads on their property ("You just square up on a 10 foot tall manzanita and gun it").

I didn't even try to turn the handwheel until he left. Luckily, it was a screaming deal. Whoever used it last either used straight veggie oil or abandoned it with oil in the pan for 20 years. The machine turns, but it is completely gummed up.

So I am in the process of taking it completely apart to clean it up. The wicks were like old candles - they just broke at my touch.

So I am looking for advice on how to disassemble the top-end of the machine.

My main questions:

Will I need a puller and press to get the upper main shaft out of the bearings and back in again?

How do I maintain the timing between the feed and the needle mechanisms when I put it back together?

Any concerns with dunking all of the parts (or even the whole head) into a solvent tank?

Can you use normal candle wick or cotton twine to replace the wicks?

Anyone know of any shop manuals or writeups on this? If not, maybe we can string together the wisdom here in this thread. Don't care if the thread wanders to other machines, just want to collect tips and tricks from people who have dug deep into their machines.

[Anne Bonnys Locker]

Do you really need to pull out the top shaft?

I generally pull of everything that cones out easily including the oil pump and use a plastic tub lined with muslin or fine cotton fabric for cleaning. Pour copious quantities of kerosene through every hole and use a variety of brushes to loosen things up. After about 2 pints of kerosene I take the machine out and look at what has collected don the cloth. If there are no metal particles - use a magnet - then there is probably minimal bearing damage. Clean the cloth and repeat until there is no more gunk coming out and the handwheel turns when gently rotated.

Oil heavily.

Next clean all the bits that came out, paying particular attention to the oil pump and what comes out of it.

Unless there is movement in places that shouldn't move then ask yourself if it needs to be replaced and therefore pulled apart.

Remember to use plenty of oil as the kerosene will leave the bearing surfaces dead dry on startup.

The less you have to strip the easier it goes back together and a digital camera is a great tool for aiding memory.

As for the wicks, order replacements for the nearest similar machine. I am sure Bob Kovar or any of the other dealers can help out and the cost will not be too high.

This is just my opinion, others may differ.

[busted]

Sewing machine college continues...

Just found a nice new-looking Brother DB2-B755-3 on Craigslist and jumped to buy it. 'Good shape, ready to go just needs oil'.

The guy delivered it and talked me up for about an hour about everything from his back pain to mountain lions and making him a holster for his sawed-off shotgun to the beater 1980s Nissan 4x4 pickups that he and his brother use to keep the brush down along the fire roads on their property ("You just square up on a 10 foot tall manzanita and gun it").

I didn't even try to turn the handwheel until he left. Luckily, it was a screaming deal. Whoever used it last either used straight veggie oil or abandoned it with oil in the pan for 20 years. The machine turns, but it is completely gummed up.

So I am in the process of taking it completely apart to clean it up. The wicks were like old candles - they just broke at my touch.

So I am looking for advice on how to disassemble the top-end of the machine.

My main questions:

Will I need a puller and press to get the upper main shaft out of the bearings and back in again?

How do I maintain the timing between the feed and the needle mechanisms when I put it back together?

Any concerns with dunking all of the parts (or even the whole head) into a solvent tank?

Can you use normal candle wick or cotton twine to replace the wicks?

Anyone know of any shop manuals or writeups on this? If not, maybe we can string together the wisdom here in this thread. Don't care if the thread wanders to other machines, just want to collect tips and tricks from people who have dug deep into their machines.

I am curious as to what type of leather you are going to sew with a machine that runs around 5000 spm? Just curious.

[elZeeko]

Linigs for bags like these:

http://zeekobag.com/leather-purses-with-matching-make-up-bags

I am curious as to what type of leather you are going to sew with a machine that runs around 5000 spm? Just curious.

[elZeeko]

Happy New Year!

I pulled apart everything that I could short of pulling the top shaft and got everything clean and smooth. Problem that I am having now is that when I run the machine, the reverse lever bumps up and down rhythmically as the machine runs.

I think that there is something sticky in the linkage between the reverse lever and feed regulator, but can't figure out how to get that linkage apart short of pulling entire top (including the shaft) apart.

Stumped.

Do you really need to pull out the top shaft?

I generally pull of everything that cones out easily including the oil pump and use a plastic tub lined with muslin or fine cotton fabric for cleaning. Pour copious quantities of kerosene through every hole and use a variety of brushes to loosen things up. After about 2 pints of kerosene I take the machine out and look at what has collected don the cloth. If there are no metal particles - use a magnet - then there is probably minimal bearing damage. Clean the cloth and repeat until there is no more gunk coming out and the handwheel turns when gently rotated.

Oil heavily.

Next clean all the bits that came out, paying particular attention to the oil pump and what comes out of it.

Unless there is movement in places that shouldn't move then ask yourself if it needs to be replaced and therefore pulled apart.

Remember to use plenty of oil as the kerosene will leave the bearing surfaces dead dry on startup.

The less you have to strip the easier it goes back together and a digital camera is a great tool for aiding memory.

As for the wicks, order replacements for the nearest similar machine. I am sure Bob Kovar or any of the other dealers can help out and the cost will not be too high.

This is just my opinion, others may differ.