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GONG

Juki Juki Tsc-441

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Thank´s guys!

I refresh my question since I don´t know the language in this yet.

I wan´t to buy an original machine. Are there Japaneese and American made Jukis?

My original question..

Hi Leatherworkers.

I´ve been spending thousand of hours on the internet finding out about witch sewing machine would be the best for my projects.

The conclusion is the japanese Juki tsc-441. Heard that the US Jukis are crapier than the Japans, could that be true?

There is one catch though.. I´m not a wealthy guy and only the head is 70.000 skr here in Sweden.

And then a 220 v servo motor witch has good power on top.

Does anyone know were in the world I can order this machine at a lower cost?

Or were there might be used ones?

Would be so thankful for some guiding in this..

Mattias

liljaoffshore@gmail.com

Edited by GONG

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No.

Art

Thank´s guys!

I refresh my question since I don´t know the language in this yet.

I wan´t to buy an original machine. Are there Japaneese and American made Jukis?

My original question..

Hi Leatherworkers.

I´ve been spending thousand of hours on the internet finding out about witch sewing machine would be the best for my projects.

The conclusion is the japanese Juki tsc-441. Heard that the US Jukis are crapier than the Japans, could that be true?

There is one catch though.. I´m not a wealthy guy and only the head is 70.000 skr here in Sweden.

And then a 220 v servo motor witch has good power on top.

Does anyone know were in the world I can order this machine at a lower cost?

Or were there might be used ones?

Would be so thankful for some guiding in this..

Mattias

liljaoffshore@gmail.com

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Hi,

First, Juki is made in Japan not in USA (and maybe in China too) The TSC 441 is a very popular model that is copied a lot by Chinese manufacturers. These copies, called china clones are imported to the US marked and sold under different brands like Cobra and Cowboy. They are set up to sew leather up to 7/8 of an inch and have many accessories for use on leather. The Chinese produce most of the big sewing machine brands now, even Dürkopp Adler, and the quality is much better than before. Not many buy an original Juki 441 anymore when a good clone is available for a third of the price. The clones can even sew thicker and have more extras than the original. A lot of our member use them daily and are satisfied with them. However, if you decide you want to buy an original Juki 441, the head only cost about 32000 to 35000 NOK in Norway. I cannot believe it cost as much as 70000 SEK in Sweden. One of the best copies of the 441 is made by Global (Global also make machines for Dürkopp Adler). Global is a well-known company, I believe the head is about 25000 NOK. It is also possible to buy a clone complete with stand and motor (an other brand) for that same price here in Norway.

Trox

Thank´s guys!

I refresh my question since I don´t know the language in this yet.

I wan´t to buy an original machine. Are there Japaneese and American made Jukis?

My original question..

Hi Leatherworkers.

I´ve been spending thousand of hours on the internet finding out about witch sewing machine would be the best for my projects.

The conclusion is the japanese Juki tsc-441. Heard that the US Jukis are crapier than the Japans, could that be true?

There is one catch though.. I´m not a wealthy guy and only the head is 70.000 skr here in Sweden.

And then a 220 v servo motor witch has good power on top.

Does anyone know were in the world I can order this machine at a lower cost?

Or were there might be used ones?

Would be so thankful for some guiding in this..

Mattias

liljaoffshore@gmail.com

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If you get a TSC-441 from Juki (or a Juki dealer) it will come set-up to sew canvas or other heavy material, dacron, sunbrella, etc. There will have to be modifications made to sew leather. The dealers like Cobra, Cowboy, and Techsew know how to do this as they do it for their own machines (even the clones come out of the box to sew fabric). So figure on the cost of the Juki, and the amount to change it over to leather production. The dependability of the Juki is not THAT much greater than the respectable clones, aka dealers at the top of the page. If you worry about that, you could buy two clones completely set-up for the price of the bare bones Juki.

Art

Thank´s guys!

I refresh my question since I don´t know the language in this yet.

I wan´t to buy an original machine. Are there Japaneese and American made Jukis?

My original question..

Hi Leatherworkers.

I´ve been spending thousand of hours on the internet finding out about witch sewing machine would be the best for my projects.

The conclusion is the japanese Juki tsc-441. Heard that the US Jukis are crapier than the Japans, could that be true?

There is one catch though.. I´m not a wealthy guy and only the head is 70.000 skr here in Sweden.

And then a 220 v servo motor witch has good power on top.

Does anyone know were in the world I can order this machine at a lower cost?

Or were there might be used ones?

Would be so thankful for some guiding in this..

Mattias

liljaoffshore@gmail.com

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Thanks Trox and Art

Finally remembered my password.

Thanks for your nice replies! I´ve decided to buy an original Juki tsc-441. My products (obviously my designs) have been cloned and that didn´t feel good.

Do you know a Juki dealer that keep low prices?

I can easily drive to Norway to get it. Is it 32-35.000 + VAT?

Got a price from Poland.. 3600 E + VAT 23%.

From the States (5200 USD)

Prices Juki tsc-441 head only.

All Best

GONG

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Thanks Trox and Art

Finally remembered my password.

Thanks for your nice replies! I´ve decided to buy an original Juki tsc-441. My products (obviously my designs) have been cloned and that didn´t feel good.

Do you know a Juki dealer that keep low prices?

I can easily drive to Norway to get it. Is it 32-35.000 + VAT?

Got a price from Poland.. 3600 E + VAT 23%.

From the States (5200 USD)

Prices Juki tsc-441 head only.

All Best

GONG

Tjenare Gong,

 

I cannot believe the price is so much different, normally Norway is much more expensive country than Sweden. I asked my contact in Amatec.no Oslo, and he told me the price is from 30000 to 35000 NOK for the head only. That is the normal price, I have requested prices from that and an other company for export to Sweden. I may also know of a used one for sale, I will give you that price to if I am not buying it my self. I will send you a PM and post the prices here too when I get the quotes.

Trox

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Tjenere Trox!

Wow Thanks dude! I will never tell a norwegian joke again it feels like..

For shure I´m interested in the used one if you´re not.

It´s true.. The machine head is ex. works, ex. VAT (25%) 56.000 sek. And that´s negotiated from 59. Forget that I will buy it in Sweden!

I´ve heard that some things actually swedes go and get in Norway. Guns are classic offcourse.

I have tested a Durkopp-Adler 205-307 at a dealer. It was nice. We drove full speed on four layers of webbing together 15 mm.

There was a EFKA 670W motor on it. He said that the new generation servo motors don´t need a speed reducer.

I´m new in this so they can tell me anything and I belive it. But it was strong and extremly slow or really fast, and no steps what I could feel.

Think he used 6# thread.

Anyway I think the Juki tsc-441 looks neater. And the Durkopp was 75.000sek complete + VAT 25%. Haha.

Looking forward to hear more!

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Tjenere Trox!

Wow Thanks dude! I will never tell a norwegian joke again it feels like..

For shure I´m interested in the used one if you´re not.

It´s true.. The machine head is ex. works, ex. VAT (25%) 56.000 sek. And that´s negotiated from 59. Forget that I will buy it in Sweden!

I´ve heard that some things actually swedes go and get in Norway. Guns are classic offcourse.

I have tested a Durkopp-Adler 205-307 at a dealer. It was nice. We drove full speed on four layers of webbing together 15 mm.

There was a EFKA 670W motor on it. He said that the new generation servo motors don´t need a speed reducer.

I´m new in this so they can tell me anything and I belive it. But it was strong and extremly slow or really fast, and no steps what I could feel.

Think he used 6# thread.

Anyway I think the Juki tsc-441 looks neater. And the Durkopp was 75.000sek complete + VAT 25%. Haha.

Looking forward to hear more!

Tjenere Gong,

We do not mind a good joke, we are also telling jokes about Swedes. However, I keep it out of the Forum and the web.

Looks like you met a very greedy dealer. There is no reason for such high prices, or do you have import taxes on new sewing machines in Sweden?

You will follow the EU prices and can buy the machine in all of Europe.

Norway is an EFTA country and follows many of the EU rules and regulations. Nevertheless, you have to check with the Swedish custom about any import taxes.

The DA 205-370 is a very good machine; it will sew the same thickness as the Juki 441. It is a more expensive machine, with superior quality and a very nice stitch.

But there is not that easy to get aftermarket saddlers attachments for the Adler as it is for the 441 (the price is much higher).

What are you going to use your machine for? If you want to use it on leather, it must be set up for it. You must change feed dog, sewing feet’s for smooth ones and maybe the needle plate too. You will need different needle plates, extra feet and guides. Buying this equipment in Norway will be very expensive, you can buy it from Cobra or Cowboy but that accessory are made for clone machines and may have to be modified to fit an Original Juki.

Then again, it maybe will fit, I do not know.

A clone machine like the Cowboy CB 4500 is already set up for the job on leather, with a foot lift on 27 mm. max sewing thickness at 22 mm. A Juki TSC 441 has a max foot lift on 20 mm. (the same as Adler 205-370) they will both sew about 16 to 17 mm. thick. Therefore, you see, it all depends of what you going to use it for.

http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb4500.html

http://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/products_e/leather_e/cat94/tsh411_tsn421_tsc441_tsu471.html

http://www.leathermachineco.com/catalog.php?item=1

http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/sewing/triple-transport-machines/prod/1013/

http://www.olafnyby.net/Brochure/brochure2.htm

The price on a tool has to be calculated down on the time you should use it, in about 5 years it maybe a new machine for sale that is much better. A price of a good clone is about 14000 NOK in USA. It is complete with every thing you need for the job. The modern Efka 1550, 600 W. will not need a speed reducer on thicknesses up to 16 mm. The older dc 1600 has 750 W. and will do that with out problems, but on thicker work, you may need one in addition.

I have two Efka a dc 1600 and an older one. You have total control with those new Efka motors.

I will be back with the quotes when I receive them.

Trox

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Tjenere Trox

Thanks again, your information and your links really put me forward in this.

It was incouraging to see pictures of your work.

I´m going to use the machine for making bags in leather and canvas (50/50).

Coming from another branch has thought me that I want to produce my own things and sell them

directly to the user that can start using them at once. Don´t even have to give them a bag to

carry it home with.

I need one machine that can do as many tasks as possible. My workshop is a boat.

The things that are important in priority order..

As thick thread as possible. (estethic)

Long stithes.

Slim under arm. (preferably diagonal as the shoe machine under).

Slim or compact design.

The motor is gonna be mounted on the back of the machine. It´s gonna be moved around a lot.

Thickness capacity is something that I can negotiate if it´s necessary.

What I like with the 441 is the openness. The 205.. is more clumsy were you suppose to have your face all day.

Starting to melt a little bit about the Cobra machine. I can order it I can also find out more and save up more money, if there is

a machine more optional.

http://www.mecval.com/index.php?topic=machinery&cat=sewing⊂=cs+93+s&plang=en

http://www.imca.net/ho-hsing/products/HVP-70-series

Can I ask if there is a trade fair anywhere (not US or Asia) that has machines. It´s so mutch to learn.

Been studying on the internet for months now. But sewing machines are not like steam-engines.

People don´t nerd out on them as on mopeds or djonk rigs.

All best Mattias

The Sieckpage was nice. Do you know any other really big dealers in northern Europe.

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Hi Mattias,

First of all, that was not my web page you looked at. It is Olav Nyby in Furnes Norway who also sells a 441 clone machine. (At the bottom of his site for 25 K Nok.)

The first clone he sold was an Artisan 3200. I do not know what brand he sells now, he imports from USA. (Not Artisan)

There are no machine that can sew all thicknesses and thread sizes.

For your kind of work, the best machine would be a medium triple feed cylinder or post bed.

A narrow cylinder like the Pfaff 335, Juki 145, 245, Dürkopp Adler 69, or a 669 will be good for small stuff. But they have a small bobbin and can not take heavy thread.

A medium heavy machine like the new D.A. 869, will do the job and take threads up to tkt 10 (synthetic), it is a new version of my Pfaff 345-H3 with big bobbin, high lift. Similar Juki is; LS 1340 serial. Those machines will sew up to 10-11 mm thick and be much better on soft skin and thin bag leather than the big 441 machine is.

The 441 is a machine for extreme heavy work, it has a long needle and big foot lift. Thin needles will brake easily. Those machines performs better on thicker work like harnesses,

Saddles and holsters with many layer of thick leather.

Sewing thick thread on thin leather is a difficult task, in order to make the seams look good, the thread loop must be adjusted to be in the middle of the material. Not lay on the top, or on the bottom. With thick thread and thin material there will be little to no room for the thread loop. It is possible to get right with a lot of adjustments every time. You will experience this when you start working with those heavy threads. Finishing seams with thick thread is also a challenge if you want quality work. There is a reason why bag makers uses the thread sizes they do.

I have seven sewing machines myself, rating from medium heavy to extreme heavy. I do a lot of work on leather back packs and bags; I always use the medium triple feed machines for this kind of work.

Take the material you will use in your bags, bring it with you to a sewing machine dealer and make some test seam. Measure its thickness and ask them to find the best machine for the job. All I am saying is the biggest tool is not necessary the best one for the job.

I have not received the price on the head yet, but the used 441 was already sold for 15000 Nok. Too bad.

I will send you a PM when I receive the quote.

Trox

Tjenere Trox

Thanks again, your information and your links really put me forward in this.

It was incouraging to see pictures of your work.

I´m going to use the machine for making bags in leather and canvas (50/50).

Coming from another branch has thought me that I want to produce my own things and sell them

directly to the user that can start using them at once. Don´t even have to give them a bag to

carry it home with.

I need one machine that can do as many tasks as possible. My workshop is a boat.

The things that are important in priority order..

As thick thread as possible. (estethic)

Long stithes.

Slim under arm. (preferably diagonal as the shoe machine under).

Slim or compact design.

The motor is gonna be mounted on the back of the machine. It´s gonna be moved around a lot.

Thickness capacity is something that I can negotiate if it´s necessary.

What I like with the 441 is the openness. The 205.. is more clumsy were you suppose to have your face all day.

Starting to melt a little bit about the Cobra machine. I can order it I can also find out more and save up more money, if there is

a machine more optional.

http://www.mecval.co...s+93+s&plang=en

http://www.imca.net/...s/HVP-70-series

Can I ask if there is a trade fair anywhere (not US or Asia) that has machines. It´s so mutch to learn.

Been studying on the internet for months now. But sewing machines are not like steam-engines.

People don´t nerd out on them as on mopeds or djonk rigs.

All best Mattias

The Sieckpage was nice. Do you know any other really big dealers in northern Europe.

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Tjena Trox

You have told me a lot of valuable information. Thanks! It´s big that you´re not pissed that we colonized you.

I ordered a Cobra 4 from Steve and his cowboy mates. I just couldn´t resist when I saw that picture. Can you get more cool?

But the machine seem nice and also improved. Thank´s for the tip!

The bags I sew are heavy duty. Thickest imaginable canvas and leaver. And thick webbing.

I make tool bags and bags for heavy equipement. Also if you want to look more manly you can have them.

If it gets to thin then I can use a Durkopp 239 that I bought on an add. It misses a couple of pieces but it really looks brand new.

Looking for an exploded view picture on it so the right parts can be ordered.

I bought an Eastman 134 cutter on a flea market yesterday but it´s so big.

Have you tried this? (picture)

Again Thanks a lot.

GONG

post-27302-069492500 1328393410_thumb.jp

Edited by GONG

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Tjenere Mattias,

Good choise, make sure you order a motor with ESP ( position). and 220v. Steve is the best Guy you can buy from. It is importent that the Dealer will support you, even when you live so far away as we do. Steve will Do just that, thats his "thing". Pls tell me what you have to pay for the shipping and the Swedish handling, when you know so. You can send me a PM or a mail. How long do you have to wait for the machine? Or did he have one in stock. I have never used a cutting machine like that, I work mostly with leather using my head knife. It's looks very modern and with out cord too, great deal. I will be with out ISP some days, because of changing to a new one. I am currently using my phone, it is a hustle. Send me a picture when you receive your new Cobra machine.

Good luck.

Thanks,

Trox

quote name='GONG' timestamp='1328394273' post='232789']

Tjena Trox

You have told me a lot of valuable information. Thanks! It´s big that you´re not pissed that we colonized you.

I ordered a Cobra 4 from Steve and his cowboy mates. I just couldn´t resist when I saw that picture. Can you get more cool?

But the machine seem nice and also improved. Thank´s for the tip!

The bags I sew are heavy duty. Thickest imaginable canvas and leaver. And thick webbing.

I make tool bags and bags for heavy equipement. Also if you want to look more manly you can have them.

If it gets to thin then I can use a Durkopp 239 that I bought on an add. It misses a couple of pieces but it really looks brand new.

Looking for an exploded view picture on it so the right parts can be ordered.

I bought an Eastman 134 cutter on a flea market yesterday but it´s so big.

Have you tried this? (picture)

Again Thanks a lot.

GONG

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Hi Trox

Hope you enjoy your new computer by now.

Steve and his men were out on some expo i Arizona but he send me a mail that they recieved the money and were gonna send the machine next week. I guess it will take a couple of weeks before it shows up. Really looking forward. You can for shure find worse people doing buisnis with. I am amazed that not more companies have that way of meeting up with customers. Yes the ESP is important I have understod and it has. Also solenoid presserfotlift and a lot of other things. I already have the motor but I can tell you I don´t understand anything yet. It´s a COMPUTER!. Have to invite a programmer friend, for dinner, I guess. Can´t even get it running.

The idea is to mount the motor on the back of the machine. Flatbelt with teeth for minimal wheel on the motor. Teeth for no slip, built in syncronizer in the motor. Maybe there has to be an external, I hope not.

http://www.imca.net/ho-hsing/products/i-70-series

Had been bothering IMCA (Global) so much that I felt like buying the motor from them. Also a very nice company. Actually you led me to them also. I just liked the Cobra head more.

I will send some pics. when Santa has been here.

All best

Tjenere Mattias,

Good choise, make sure you order a motor with ESP ( position). and 220v. Steve is the best Guy you can buy from. It is importent that the Dealer will support you, even when you live so far away as we do. Steve will Do just that, thats his "thing". Pls tell me what you have to pay for the shipping and the Swedish handling, when you know so. You can send me a PM or a mail. How long do you have to wait for the machine? Or did he have one in stock. I have never used a cutting machine like that, I work mostly with leather using my head knife. It's looks very modern and with out cord too, great deal. I will be with out ISP some days, because of changing to a new one. I am currently using my phone, it is a hustle. Send me a picture when you receive your new Cobra machine.

Good luck.

Thanks,

Trox

quote name='GONG' timestamp='1328394273' post='232789']

Tjena Trox

You have told me a lot of valuable information. Thanks! It´s big that you´re not pissed that we colonized you.

I ordered a Cobra 4 from Steve and his cowboy mates. I just couldn´t resist when I saw that picture. Can you get more cool?

But the machine seem nice and also improved. Thank´s for the tip!

The bags I sew are heavy duty. Thickest imaginable canvas and leaver. And thick webbing.

I make tool bags and bags for heavy equipement. Also if you want to look more manly you can have them.

If it gets to thin then I can use a Durkopp 239 that I bought on an add. It misses a couple of pieces but it really looks brand new.

Looking for an exploded view picture on it so the right parts can be ordered.

I bought an Eastman 134 cutter on a flea market yesterday but it´s so big.

Have you tried this? (picture)

Again Thanks a lot.

GONG

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Tjena Mattias,

Not new computer but new Internet provider (the company that deliver my broadband Internet connection) But thanks anyway.

You ordered the machine already, but you bought the motor from Imca. Can you pls. tell me the price for the head with shipping? (Send it in a Personal message if you prefer) I am also considering buying a head only. But I have to sell some of the machines I already have to get more room, he he. Say hello to Steve from me if you talk to him, He is a great guy.

The motor you bought is the new Ac motor from Ho Sing; I was wondering when they start to use this system in the sewing industry. I have been using the same system for a while on the old three phase clutch motors I have. This is the system used in all other industry today.

It is a normal AC motor and a small computer controlling the currents frequency among other. All parameters can be set; you can connect a pot meter to adjust the speed and so on. Yours is the same but more advanced. I have some machines with three phase motors, both clutches a continuous drive motors. With only single-phase current in my workshop, I had to change the motors or the electrical system, the solution was the frequency converter (a small computer controlling the AC motor and changing the current, it is the same system). With this system, I can get a three-phase clutch motor to run as slow as I want. (The machine can be set to sew one stitch a day if I want). It works very well.

However, your system is a complete solution. Which mini motor did you buy? I do not know the system with an internal synchronizer, but the normal one is mounted on the machine hand wheel. It count’s rotations and do not loose any accuracy with belt slippage. The machine hand wheels have a V belt pulley, it is a big heavy wheel to add torque and speed reduction. How do you plan to attach it to a flat-toothed belt? To do that you need a new hand wheel. Cowboy sells a bigger wheel upgrade, but it is still a V belt. The pulley on the motor must be as small as possible (50 mm or less) and the machine pulley as big as possible. The 750W AC motor would do the job, if not add a speed reducer.

Look at the big monster Adler 120 (built on license from DA of http://www.sl-spezial.de/sl/index.php/company.html ) It has a mini servo (Efka 1550 with a planet gear for extra torque) mounted on the back. If you are not sure about the strength of the motor, you can ask Steve about what he thinks; and ask him to send with a speed reducer just in case. (It depends of the AC motor you bought) Or you can ask Gregg from Keystone sewing, he sells the ho sing, many other motors and all kinds of sewing machines ( he is a member here)

You were right buying a Cobra; I have heard that Global is just a machine branding. The quality can be changing. However, Ho Sing is a pro motor. In addition, you bought a presser foot lift solenoid; it will be a great machine. You must post some pictures of it here. The Ho sing pimped boat Cobra. I cannot wait to see it. Good luck.

Trox

Hi Trox

Hope you enjoy your new computer by now.

Steve and his men were out on some expo i Arizona....

post-10237-071851900 1329091479_thumb.jp

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How about using bicycle sprockets and a chain to drive the machine from the small motor?

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Hi Wiz

It might work, but I do not understand why he cannot use a V belt like the rest of us. There is nothing special about it, only that he should use it in a boat and mount the motor on the back to save space. He will not sew very thick, handbags and such. A V-belt, the right size and profile type will work just fine.

Trox

How about using bicycle sprockets and a chain to drive the machine from the small motor?

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Hi W

Maybe that could work. One thing is that it coould create mechanical noise.

Thanks

Mattias

How about using bicycle sprockets and a chain to drive the machine from the small motor?

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If there´s gonna be a external synchronizer and that little italian speed reducer, that Trox showed this morning, I will use the v-belt. I really wonder were I can get that piece. If it´s needed.. The motor, 750W seem to have very high torque on low r.p.m.

At the moment the issue is to bring life in the motor. It´s so new that I can´t find any discussions about it. And the literature is written in a language (english) for sewing machine enginers.

And Trox.. The Shipping/handling from California-Sweden was 300$. I will get back with pictures, and info. about what the customs comes up with. But that should be 35% in VAT/toll if i´m unlucky.

If you want to try and have your paths by you are welcome.

quote name='Trox' timestamp='1329113850' post='234042']

Hi Wiz

It might work, but I do not understand why he cannot use a V belt like the rest of us. There is nothing special about it, only that he should use it in a boat and mount the motor on the back to save space. He will not sew very thick, handbags and such. A V-belt, the right size and profile type will work just fine.

Trox

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Remember when I was a young man I had a very strong Yamaha 350cc motorbike. It was a two-stroke engine; I had to feed it with chains and sprockets. I had to drive over the border to Sweden to buy them, it was too expensive here. Every week it wanted a new drive packet. After that time, I am allergic to sprockets.

Hi W

Maybe that could work. One thing is that it coould create mechanical noise.

Thanks

Mattias

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Thanks Mattias,

But the synchronizer should be together with the motor, it is normally included in the motor package. If you do not see it (like on my Efka) it is an internal one. This new modern motor system surely calculates the belt slippage and everything. I know that the Efka counterpart, the 1550 is strong enough to propel a 441 or a 205-370 with out any speed reducer. Even on the biggest tasks. I see no reason that the Ho Sing 1 hp AC motor will not. No worries, it will be strong and slow enough. If you have the data sheet on it, send it over and I will have a look at it later. I have some experience with similar applications, and know the terms and language. You must have the motor on the top of the table because of the boats hull shape, am I correct? You must remember to mount the motor in a way that you will be able to adjust the belt tension (without a speed reducer that is no problem. With one is difficult, because you have to place the reducer in a way that makes it possible to tension both belt) you must have a place for the thread rack too. It will need a thread rack that pulls thread of the top of the thread spool (the machine want sew proper without it). In addition, you will need a belt cover to avoid thread (or anything else) in your motor, that is now in an exposed position. This is the tings you should have in mind when you building the machine stand. It might be other concerns too, it is best to study the motor instructions well before you start. (I can help you with that; I can also give you my skype number if needed) Those Instructions can be frightening, building up a machine can be very time consuming even for a trained sewing machine engineer. The Shipping price was not too bad; do you have as much as 35 % VAT? Here it is 25 %. Thanks for the invitation, if I am in Sweden I let you know. I hope this will help a bit. Send me the data sheet and I have a look.

Trox

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post-10237-005043200 1329155823_thumb.jp

post-10237-063685000 1329155850_thumb.jp

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Tja Trox

Our VAT is also 25% but toll is 10%. Thievs!

I got the syncronizer in the box. It says in the manual that if you put the motor/machine ratio 1:1 you don´t need the syncronizer. Then I thought that it can be calibrated with other gear ratio.

I got the motor running now but I might need some reading help further on. On lowest you can make one stitch in a century. And you can sew threw 18 mm norwegian plywood!

Without jokes it feels strong on low speed. The machine is gonna be moved around and used as a mobile unit. Everything mechanical will be one unit as on the pimped Adler 120.

I have watched those movieclips 10 times today. That´s a strong machine!

Got this speed controller thing you connect to a rod to the pedal. But shouldnt there be a pedal for loose use with the speed controller built in?

It will take some time.

Will be away for some days.

Thanks!

http://www.imca.net/Sites/Imca/files/manuali70M.pdf

Thanks Mattias,

But the synchronizer should be together with the motor, it is normally included in the motor package. If you do not see it (like on my Efka) it is an internal one. This new modern motor system surely calculates the belt slippage and everything. I know that the Efka counterpart, the 1550 is strong enough to propel a 441 or a 205-370 with out any speed reducer. Even on the biggest tasks. I see no reason that the Ho Sing 1 hp AC motor will not. No worries, it will be strong and slow enough. If you have the data sheet on it, send it over and I will have a look at it later. I have some experience with similar applications, and know the terms and language. You must have the motor on the top of the table because of the boats hull shape, am I correct? You must remember to mount the motor in a way that you will be able to adjust the belt tension (without a speed reducer that is no problem. With one is difficult, because you have to place the reducer in a way that makes it possible to tension both belt) you must have a place for the thread rack too. It will need a thread rack that pulls thread of the top of the thread spool (the machine want sew proper without it). In addition, you will need a belt cover to avoid thread (or anything else) in your motor, that is now in an exposed position. This is the tings you should have in mind when you building the machine stand. It might be other concerns too, it is best to study the motor instructions well before you start. (I can help you with that; I can also give you my skype number if needed) Those Instructions can be frightening, building up a machine can be very time consuming even for a trained sewing machine engineer. The Shipping price was not too bad; do you have as much as 35 % VAT? Here it is 25 %. Thanks for the invitation, if I am in Sweden I let you know. I hope this will help a bit. Send me the data sheet and I have a look.

Trox

[

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The motor want work well with out the sync, (position head). One to one ratio t is a bad idea it will not work. The machine itself is strong; it has built in gears that make it strong. You must have a big hand wheel to punch true heavy leather, that’s what makes a leather machine (among other things, this is a key)

 

You know how much that Adler costs? About 200 000,- Euro. And it is big, very big.

Be careful to run the motor with out a sewing machine on, it will not work the right way. The machine also has to be grounded (the current). There is a stand-alone sewing pedal, with a cable available. You will need the speed control (pedal) for sure. With all respect, do some more reading up before you start; you have a lot to learn. Read posts about what makes a good leather machine, it all applies to your machine. Your machine is build for leatherwork; find out what makes it that good. Compare it to a normal Juki 441. It is important than you know this things when set up your machine.

Then you will have some good question to ask me the next time, He he. We talk later, I do not like to read instructions my self, but we all have to. All the answers are in the forum to. Good luck,

Later

Trox

Tja Trox

Our VAT is also 25% but toll is 10%. Thievs!

I got the syncronizer in the box. It says in the manual that if you put the motor/machine ratio 1:1 you don´t need the syncronizer. Then I thought that it can be calibrated with other gear ratio.

I got the motor running now but I might need some reading help further on. On lowest you can make one stitch in a century. And you can sew threw 18 mm norwegian plywood!

Without jokes it feels strong on low speed. The machine is gonna be moved around and used as a mobile unit. Everything mechanical will be one unit as on the pimped Adler 120.

I have watched those movieclips 10 times today. That´s a strong machine!

Got this speed controller thing you connect to a rod to the pedal. But shouldnt there be a pedal for loose use with the speed controller built in?

It will take some time.

Will be away for some days.

Thanks!

http://www.imca.net/.../manuali70M.pdf

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  • Tjena Trox
    No Machine yet.. Leather Machine Company recieved the funds the 7 of feb., were going to send the machine the week after. Shipping 20-22 days. Since then promising to send it once in a while after me asking.
    Today they tell me they have send it this morning and it´s going to take 39 days to Malmö.
    This was not what I expected.
    I hope that the machine is nice.

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Hi Gong,

He did not have a machine in stock, I think everybody have to wait to get them from China. Did he not inform you about this? All the machines he gets from China goes direckt to the customers after adjustment etc. first. The shipping was slow, but it is to keep the price down?. I was sure you already was sewing on your Cobra, I can understand your your dissapoitment. You have to keep in contackt with them, not be the one customer who is on the bottom on the waiting list. This is becauce he have to many people on his waiting list, calling him every day. The Chineese can only deliver a certain ammount of machines every third month or so, all the machines go direct out. He wants more machines, but can not have them. Search the forum, this has been on here before.

I hope you get it soon,stay in touch.

  • Tjena Trox
    No Machine yet.. Leather Machine Company recieved the funds the 7 of feb., were going to send the machine the week after. Shipping 20-22 days. Since then promising to send it once in a while after me asking.
    Today they tell me they have send it this morning and it´s going to take 39 days to Malmö.
    This was not what I expected.
    I hope that the machine is nice.

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Wiz, how long will it take me to teach you lot that treadle is the only way to go? At the moment 90% of my business is hand crank and I am trying to upgrade them to treadle!

How about using bicycle sprockets and a chain to drive the machine from the small motor?

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