Tae Report post Posted July 10, 2008 Hello, I'm contemplating making my own stamps. The big catch is that I only own a few tools, mainly a dremel tool and files. I also own small power tools (circular saw, jig saw, drill) and hand tools (saws, files), but they don't seem as useful. I got a suggestion at the Tandy store that I can make them out of derlin rods. I found some on eBay (they were called aerlin/acetal rods), so I'll try the 1/4" rods. The thing I probably need most is a bench grinder, but I'm going to try to use the grinder bits on the dremel for now. Does anyone have any suggestions for me? I would appreciate any input. cheers, Tae Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted July 10, 2008 GO WITH WHAT YOU HAVE .........AND LETS SEE HOW IT TURNS OUT........... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Elton Joorisity Report post Posted July 10, 2008 I make a lot of my own stamps. If you want to try making metal ones, buy 10" common spikes. The metal is pretty good and you can make 2 tools out of one spike. You can also use smaller nails. The basic tools you will need are as follows: small vise, bastard file, good set of needle files, various grits of emery cloth and sand paper, polishing compound, and a hacksaw. A 50 lpi and 75 lpi (lpi being lines per inch) checkering file would be handy. They are used for making both lined and checkered tools. A 60 lpi is also available but harder to find. Most of the rough shaping can be done with a bastard file. An axe file is also a good file to consider having in the tool box. You sill also quickly become a file collector!!! I will try to post impressions of some of the tools I have made. Eventually you can start using stainless steel bolts. There is nothing more rewarding than takin an ugly looking nail and turning it into a useful tool!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robert Report post Posted July 12, 2008 (edited) I did a tutorial on this site some months back, but i think it got lost in the "big crash." Maybe this will help. I use a bench grinder, but you can use files - it just takes longer. If you are making a tool such as a beveler, you can just saw the bolt head off and use the bolt stem (or use a spike as noted above). Making your own tools 12-8-07 Tools I used for this project Bench grinder Mill file Coarse emery cloth Medium emery cloth 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper Rag wheel on bench grinder, with Ryobi stainless polishing compound Rag wheel on hand held drill with white rouge Brownells checkering file – 75 Lines per inch Hacksaw (to cut the threads off) Magnifying glasses [/size] I work on tools away from my leather bench… you don't want metal filings on your bench or on your leather. For this project, I am going to make a Sheridan style thumbprint. Pear shaders and Thumbprints are easiest to make because they relatively easy, and I, for one, like to have a variety – different sizes, long lined, cross lined, cross hatched, etc., and if they are slightly different shapes, so much the better. Thumbprints have a flatter bottom and are not generally walked like a pearshader, so this particular tool is pretty flat, but make it any way that suits you. Also, many thumbprints don't taper to a point on the end, and are used essentially as two different tools – each end is a different size and can be used as needed. However, I like having a more tapered end that will fit into the end of my "stickers" or "vines", whatever you call them. Leaf liners and center liners are easy too – they look flat on the face but have a slight curvature. Bevelers have to be shaped right or they leave tracks, and you want you different size bevellers to have the same angle, so they are a little tougher, but not too bad. For the thumbprint in this project, the general process I followed is: 1. I use stainless steel bolts, at least 5.5 inches long (I have started using 6"). I typically use 3 sizes – ¼, 5/16, and 3/8. The smaller ones are less than $2 each, and the larger are just over $2. You can use regular bolts or nails or anything, just check for corrosion before you use it – just stamp it on some scrap. I used regular zinc covered bolts for a while, and they work just fine – I have several that are part of my regularly used tools. 2. Leave the bolt threads on – you can use that to clamp in your vise while you work, then saw them off. I like tools with a final length of either 4.25" or 4.5" long. 3. Draw the rough shape of your tool on the bolt head with a Sharpie. This gives you a rough idea of how much metal to remove on a grinder before you get to the more detailed work. 4. Use a grinder to rough out the outside shape – I do this very rough. I don't try to do any curvature with a grinder (for example, I don't do the bottom of a shader with the grinder). Picture 1 is the tool and the impression when I finish with the grinder. Note it is very rough, and large. The grinder is just for bulk metal removal… but it takes too much off too fast to be used for detail work. http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4390.jpg 5. Once you have the rough shape, use a mill file to give you tool shape. I find it easiest to have a finished tool to compare to as I go. Many tools have subtle curves that you don't really notice until you try to make your own. Stamp your new tool into test leather often to make sure you are getting the shape you want. Note the second impression – it is a little smaller, and has a little more shape. This is about the point I stop using the file and go to emory cloth. http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4394.jpg 6. Continue to refine the shape. Once you are happy with the rough shape, use coarse emory cloth to put the final shape to it. Impression #3 is about the point at which I stopped using the coarse emory cloth. The scrap in the picture is to give you an idea of how often I am testing the stamp as I go. http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4395.jpg 7. Continue to refine the shape - use medium emory cloth then 600 grit to work out the grinder and file marks. Impression #4 is taken while I was using the medium emory cloth. See how much smaller the stamp is getting? Don't take too much off with the grinder… it is easy to make a tool smaller, but you can't make it larger! http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4396.jpg 8. At this point, I will clean up the tool and take it to my bench and do some testing with it. Typically, that leads me back to step 6 with the coarse emory cloth. Repeat as many times as necessary (hey, nobody said this was simple J). Impression #5 is taken while I was working with the 600 grit paper in the testing stage. See on the face of the tool – you can see very fine marks that I haven't worked out yet – I will work those out too. http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4398.jpg 9. Once you like the shape, use 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper to put a nice polish on it. Then I put the smooth tool to use and make sure it walks if it is a walking tool, and just generally make sure it is going to work. http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4399.jpg 6. Then polish with a rag wheel on a bench grinder (I use rouge for stainless first, followed by a different wheel with white rouge on it). Then it is time for the lining tool. On this tool, I am using a 75 LPI file from Brownells (www.brownells.com). I try to get one end of the tool face, then line it up and get the other end of the tool face. I use magnifying glasses to get the lines lined up after I have run the file across the face once. It is tough to line them up, and takes practice. Don't be afraid to file off the lines and start again. The good news is that, even it isn't perfect, nobody will notice on your leather! I studied one of my good tools from a custom maker under a magnifying glass, and the lines aren't perfect, but you can't tell that in the stamp impression. http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4400.jpg 7. Then back to the scrap, to test some more now that the lining is done. http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4402.jpg 8. Once you are happy with it, take a fine brush and some household cleaner (even a tooth brush) and clean out any filings, and clean up the metal dust. Then cut the tool to the right length with a hacksaw and clean up the rough end. Do some final polishing, then you have your finished tool! http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4403.jpg 7. Here are a few of my tools. There are a couple of leaf liners, a small and a medium thumbprint, a set of fine bevellers (75 LPI) and a set of coarser (50 LPI). http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4404.jpg Hope this is helpful. Have fun… jump in and start filing – that's the best way to learn. Edited July 12, 2008 by robert Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tae Report post Posted July 12, 2008 Wow! Thanks so much for all the tips! I will start buying a few things I need to start off. Probably some files and a vise would be a good start. I will post progress here if I run into some trouble. Tae Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
