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Highlands858

Best Way To Cut Pigskin Lining.

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So I had to cut some lining for my first belt. It's really thin pigskin lining, and I thought I could just cut it with a razor and metal ruler, but it seems like it works away from me the further I go from my starting point. Seems like I cut a curved piece of lining leather, and that's not what I wanted. What's the best way to cut thin lining leather?

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Are you using a non-slip ruler (the kind with the cork back)? That might help keep you from wandering. If you're wandering away from the ruler, use the ruler on the other side of your cut.

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Soft leathers are best cut with either a pair of shears or a rotary cutting knife. (pizza cutter looking thing)

Also, glue your (oversized) lining to the project first and carefully cut the excess away. Way easier then trying to precisely place a backing as you're stitching or glueing.

Edited by HellfireJack

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Jack is right on with the scissor cutting. And the glue first, cut second.

My problem is getting a pigskin for a 38" belt. My pigs don't come that long. LOL I start by laying out a 1 3/4 blank with a silver pen or pencil on the backside (for a 1 1/2 inch belt). Cut you strips. I then cut the ends..say 45 degrees to the edge and skive both ends. Overlap, glue and sew together (46 thread) for a long strip.

THEN glue to your belt material, and after pounding and setting, simply cut the excess pig from the edges, for a perfect fit.

Try that.

Kevin

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All good tips above, I always glue liners first then trim. However, something else to think about is using 2/3 oz leather for the lining on a belt, I use pigskin more for wallets, purses, phone cases, etc.

Chief

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Thank you all for the sound advice. Next time I'll use scissors or shears to cut my pigskin. I like the idea of using 2-3 oz as a backing for my next belt, but the amount of stitching I'm doing on this current one is killing me. Is stitching really needed for a belt like this, or is it mostly decorative?

Thanks for any and all responses.

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I recently glued 1 and 1/2oz pig to the flesh side of veg tanned leather then use a rotary cutter on it. Mine moved around too even glued, it's very stretchy. So I used a box cutter with a new stropped blade to get the excess off. I don't understand your question though Highland. If you're going to line it, you have to sew it. I used barge and bricks laid on mine while it set up and it's still pulling away in places where it stretches and the veg tanned isn't. You don't have to line a belt, but if you do I wouldn't recommend you depend on glue alone. Just my opinion, others may have a different opinion. Cheryl

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Kayak, I just bought a whole black glazed pig from SLC and it's long enough to line twice that length.

http://springfieldleather.com/32394/Lining%2CGlazed-Pig%2CBlack%2CSqFt/

Cheryl

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You can use some wallpaper with a self glueing back just peel the back off the wall paper and lay the hide down on the paper and smooth out flip it over and cut with a rotary cutter and straight edge . Then simply peel off the wall paper . This trick works well with thin leathers and the lace cutter from Tandy gives the leather some body it dont have on its own . I still believe a 4inch wide 36inch long by 3/16 pexi glass straight edge is the only way to go ,used with a 60mm rotary cutter . Its wide enough not to move end to end and the 3/16 thickness prevents the blade from doing a up and over causing injuries. With this set up you can cut lace strings ,5 to a inch perfect end to end the length of a hide . Personaly I woud rather have sharp things moving away from me rather than pulling a razor towards my body . Hope this helps . Bill

So I had to cut some lining for my first belt. It's really thin pigskin lining, and I thought I could just cut it with a razor and metal ruler, but it seems like it works away from me the further I go from my starting point. Seems like I cut a curved piece of lining leather, and that's not what I wanted. What's the best way to cut thin lining leather?

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Bill,

I have a aluminum drywall "T" square four foot long. I hook the "T" end over the edge of my cutting table end, move the leather under it, cut with the rotary cutter.

Works real well most of the time.

ferg

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Bill,

I have a aluminum drywall "T" square four foot long. I hook the "T" end over the edge of my cutting table end, move the leather under it, cut with the rotary cutter.

Works real well most of the time.

ferg

That's what I use as well. Haven't had any major issues with it. I usually use a utility knife with the snap off blades and use a fresh blade for every one or two cuts.

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That's what I use as well. Haven't had any major issues with it. I usually use a utility knife with the snap off blades and use a fresh blade for every one or two cuts.

Do you use this method to cut straps from thicker leather as well..after a few uneven belts with a wooden strap cutter, I'm thinking of using long straight edge and one of those cutters that looks like a pizza cutter.

Edited by Invasion

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No, this is only for the first cut. After that I use a strap cutter.

I like the wood strap cutter but you have to line up your measurement again and tighten the thumb screw after each cut. If you're forcing it you can still get an uneven cut because the guide can still move inside the handle.

You have to use some finesse to keep the leather from binding which is what will ruin your belts.

How uneven are your belts? I'm making leather dog collars and they're never perfectly exactly even. They're not noticeably crooked or anything like they're cut with a sawzall, but they do have that rustic look. My customers love them and anyone that wants an exactly even straight as an arrow line I suggest that handmade might not be for them and I will often recommend they buy the stuff made overseas on machines.

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No, this is only for the first cut. After that I use a strap cutter.

I like the wood strap cutter but you have to line up your measurement again and tighten the thumb screw after each cut. If you're forcing it you can still get an uneven cut because the guide can still move inside the handle.

You have to use some finesse to keep the leather from binding which is what will ruin your belts.

How uneven are your belts? I'm making leather dog collars and they're never perfectly exactly even. They're not noticeably crooked or anything like they're cut with a sawzall, but they do have that rustic look. My customers love them and anyone that wants an exactly even straight as an arrow line I suggest that handmade might not be for them and I will often recommend they buy the stuff made overseas on machines.

Does the precut help guide the strap cutter? I have the wooden one as well. My belts are not to bad, just get narrower by about 1-2mm; to be honest I notice it, but I don't think anyone else would...hopefully ;)

I was making a collar today and lining with pigskin I cut a 2 inch wide strip the folded it over 1/2 inch each side. the idea being that if the edge comes unbonded from the bridle collar it will still look finished. First time cutting pig skin found it a little tricky to be honest. I am hoping with a roller cutter I will be able to cut nice straight 2 inch strips.

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Yes, I'm making the first cut with my straight edge and using it to guide the strap cutter. That first cut is the most important. If that's off, every cut after that will be off. And if you mess up the edge of the leather with the strap cutter, you have to straighten it out again before you can cut any more straight strips. I'm cutting 2/3oz and 6/7oz cowhide. Pigskin I'd use the roller cutter and a no skid ruler. I don't know if a strap cutter would work on pigskin I never tried it. Shears are good too if you have good quality ones. I found a box of Weiss shears at an estate sale that work really well. They keep an edge, but if you can find a good set of bend shears that'll probably be your best bet, especially if you're hiding the edges of the pigskin anyway.

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Another option is to use double horse front leather from Horween for the liner. They have it in three grades, and one of them is a lining grade. It is 2-2.5 oz.

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