Still Learning - Stitching Hole Woes

[tylerbrinks]

I've got a project that's 90% complete - just needs stitching. I figured I'd practice a bit on scraps before giving the final piece a go. So, I have a section about 6 inches long where there are 2 pieces of 6/7 oz veg tan leather glued together. That's where I need to stitch. I glued 2 scraps of the same leather together for practice, stitching groove and all. My chisels aren't long enough to get through both pieces of leather, so I have to find some other means to get nicely spaced and even holes through both pieces.

I tried my awl and it's amazingly hard to get it through both pieces. Whether I use a lacing pony or not, the pieces pucker enough that I can't seem to get the awl to emerge in the groove on the opposite side. Even when I do, it seems like it's too hard to get the needles through, especially the 2nd one. In all the videos I've watched, it seems like awls are going through leather like a hot knife through butter. I'm assuming that either I'm doing something wrong, or that's just too much leather to push through.

The only other idea I've come across so far is to drill with a Dremel press (which I happen to have).

So, in short, can you help me sort out how to stitch through larger thicknesses of leather (how to prep, should it be moist/wet, tips to stay straight and even, end up in the grooves), or ideas on using a Dremel (or similar) drill for punching holes?

Thanks for the help - being new to the hobby isn't short of it's learning opportunity!

Edited January 6, 2013 by tylerbrinks

[JustKate]

Here are some things that have helped me:

I only use a chisel to mark where the holes go, and the awl to actually make the holes. This is because I like the holes to hold the thread very tightly once it's stitched, and when I make the holes with a punch, the holes are too big.

If your awl is not sliding easily through the entire thickness of leather without much resistance, then you need to spend some time getting the awl really, really sharp. Most awls you buy do not come ready to use, and they require some work getting them adequately sharp to be usable. From what you've said here, I think this is your main problem.

I had problems getting my awl sharp enough, until I discovered the wonders of wet/dry sandpaper in really fine grits. The needle of a stitching awl should have a diamond shape to it, and you need to maintain that shape as you sharpen the tip and edges of it.

Also, if you struggle with making holes with your awl while it's in the stitching clamp, try laying the leather down on a piece of 1/2" foam core, and pre-cutting the holes before placing them in the clamp. If you do it this way, you will need to do the stitching immediately after making the holes, because they will close up over time, and become difficult to get the needle through.

Edited January 6, 2013 by JustKate

[GlenH]

I made a knife sheith a while ago, and I used a dremel tool mounted in a press. It did the trick and was a LOT quicker than doing it by hand). Just be sure to place your piece on some other leather for the drill bit to drill in to, otherwise you'll have ragged holes on the back side.

As JustKate said above, sharpen your awl. You might also want to stick it into some beeswax before trying to punch holes in leather (that works for the needles too).

Glen

[TexasJack]

This is not an uncommon complaint and I think everyone has gone through it at one time or another.

The idea that the awl must be sharp cannot be over-emphasized. Once it's sharp, it's surprising how easily it will go through leather. (Not surprising, it can also go through your hand or finger pretty quickly, too!!)

Someone on here (and I'm sorry but I keep losing the link to that post) posted a picture of a piece of beeswax wrapped in copper wire that they use to hold the leather flat behind the point you are making with the awl. The leather stays flat and the awl gets some fresh wax once it goes through. It might be worth your while to give that a try.