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Random Saddle Making Questions

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1) I saw a post about stretching stirrups and when in process to do it? I read Dusty Johnson book and video and read first two Stohlman books and didn't see anything about stretching the leathers. Do you all do anything to stretch the leathers?

2) if you are going to do a full tool and dye job, do you tool and finish all the pieces before you put on saddle? But in thinking if you do that, it will get all distorted when stretching and putting on saddle.so maybe I just answered my own question?

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Myself, I'd never heard of stretching the stirrup leathers before that particular post. I've never done it and don't know anyone that does it.

You need to stamp the swell cover once it's on, since it will be really stretched. I fit the seat, let it dry, then stamp it, so it's "roughly fit" before it's stamped...plus the seat is thick leather and won't stretch much. Rest of the saddle can be stamped before it's installed for the final time.

1) I saw a post about stretching stirrups and when in process to do it? I read Dusty Johnson book and video and read first two Stohlman books and didn't see anything about stretching the leathers. Do you all do anything to stretch the leathers?

2) if you are going to do a full tool and dye job, do you tool and finish all the pieces before you put on saddle? But in thinking if you do that, it will get all distorted when stretching and putting on saddle.so maybe I just answered my own question?

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#1 Stirrup leathers should get stretched enough when you twist and stretch or set fender/leather assembly which is the practice of most top makers. Best results if done after final assembly but before any oil or other finish is applied. Answer to ?2 as you see is 'it depends'. Most will be done in between initial fitting and final assembly with exceptions.

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I prestretch my leathers. They stay more even. I get them sloppy wet and when they are closer to dry, I run a slicker over then and then screw one end to a board. I take spikes and lever the other end until they don't stretch anymore and screw that end down. Some guys stick a can under them to really get them tight. Once I have the fenders done and the leathers on, I wet them again. When everything is about casing wet, I set the twist and stretch the fender and leather together. You can do this on a stretcher or a tree on your drawdown. On the drawdown run a post through the stirrups and use the bar to put pressure on it, hang a anvil, or something like that. That sets the twist and makes a new ride a lot easier.

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thanks guys, that helps a few major questions i had!

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I do just like Bruce does. The left one will "grow" if you don't stretch them. I do a lot of repairs and it is pretty common to see the left blevins set on a higher hole than the right side on factory saddles. I have seen almost 2 inches difference between left and right leathers.

Stohlman does touch on this in volume 2.

CW

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Stretching replacement stirrup leathers before they are mated to the fender is very important to do on new stirrup leathers, even on older saddles. If this is not done the new leather will stretch and put an excessive amount of weight on older fender leather,which will result in ripping at the fender leg. In our shop we cut a piece of leather 6 1/4 inches wide, wet it, when it's ready we clamp both ends of the strap down and block up the center until it won't stretch any more. We leave it to dry out good, then we cut that strap down into two 3" straps, the leather is also slicked. after leathers have been install on the fenders and placed on the saddle we wet and set the turn in them. We do all stirrup leathers this way on both new saddles and replacement leathers.

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I do just like Bruce does. The left one will "grow" if you don't stretch them. I do a lot of repairs and it is pretty common to see the left blevins set on a higher hole than the right side on factory saddles. I have seen almost 2 inches difference between left and right leathers.

Stohlman does touch on this in volume 2.

CW

Problem with factories is that they believe if the leather is big enough, it good enough to use. I have seen them use the belly to cut out leather and fenders. Every saddle part has a place on a side of leather that it should be cut from. All my fenders and leathers come right from the back. I have never seen any that came back with stretch in them. One other thing I do. I assemble them with a 1/4" gap between the leather and the bend in the fender bottom. That way the leather is taking all the weight without any on the fender.

Edited by PcCowboy

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Generally we carve the entire saddle before it goes onto the tree. But of course this is according to the shape of the pommel and just how radical the stretch will be. Then you may have to just touch up the lines on the front but normally the process doesn't distort the carving.

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