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Used Sewing Machine Tips

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Im still a novice at this so here goes Im thinking about purchasing a used or rebuilt walking foot sewing machine for my leather work hobby. I very rarely work with heavy leathers i usaully stay under 7 oz. Im kind of on a tight budget and looking to spend no more than $900 at this point im looking at a Singer 211g156 and a Pfaff 145 any ideas on these machines or other machines i should consider. One day i hope to move up to a better new machine but right now its not in my budget. Thanks

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Im still a novice at this so here goes Im thinking about purchasing a used or rebuilt walking foot sewing machine for my leather work hobby. I very rarely work with heavy leathers i usaully stay under 7 oz. Im kind of on a tight budget and looking to spend no more than $900 at this point im looking at a Singer 211g156 and a Pfaff 145 any ideas on these machines or other machines i should consider. One day i hope to move up to a better new machine but right now its not in my budget. Thanks

You should be able to find a medium-weight used machine like a pfaff 145, singer 211 etc for around $900. If you're buying locally, make sure to bring some leather with you and try the machine before buying. If you're buying online make sure the machine is tested and adjusted for sewing leather.

Ron

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You should be able to find a medium-weight used machine like a pfaff 145, singer 211 etc for around $900. If you're buying locally, make sure to bring some leather with you and try the machine before buying. If you're buying online make sure the machine is tested and adjusted for sewing leather.

Ron

What do you think about the JUKI LU563

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The first tip I give a lot of people - and I am a dealer - is to come here and research their needs so you have started off doing the best thing possible!

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I also would opt for a Singer 211 walking foot ,but I tink you can do better then 900 dollar....these babies are regulary sold for 4-600 dollars....with the money saved, buy you a nice Servo motor and all is well!!

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Nice Ludvig Adler 205-370 clone for sale in the used forum 1250 $, thats a bargain, these cost more than 3k new.

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Im thinking about purchasing a used or rebuilt sewing machine for my leather work. I am working with heavy leather under 7 oz. Im on a tight budget and looking to spend no more than $300 at this point im looking for help in getting some recamendations from you. I'm looking at the HEAVY DUTY WHITE 1315 INDUSTRIAL STRENGTH SEWING MACHINE.

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the White 1315 is not going to be a good leather sewing machine. For under 300 it will be difficult but not impossible. might look for a singer 15-91

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Im thinking about purchasing a used or rebuilt sewing machine for my leather work. I am working with heavy leather under 7 oz. Im on a tight budget and looking to spend no more than $300 at this point im looking for help in getting some recamendations from you. I'm looking at the HEAVY DUTY WHITE 1315 INDUSTRIAL STRENGTH SEWING MACHINE.

You need to first off decide what thick leather is. To you, it might be 1/4" total thickness counting all layers. For someone else, it is 3/4" total thickness. There is a lot of difference between the machines you would use to handle this. So first, what is your total thickness? What thread size do you intend to use? How hard is the leather? Do you need a cylinder or a flat bed machine? You need to define these types of parameters first. Then a dealer (see the ads at the top of the page) can help you find the machine you need for your work. Most often, the first machine a new to the art person buys is not suitable for the job they are working on. Put your money into a machine that is capable.

Tom

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The thickest would be an Inch thick total. It is double shoulder leather because i have to tool in the patterns then tann it and sew it.

Thank you Tom for your help.

Edited by HotRodjlr

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Tom is right what is thick to one person is thin to another.BUT you mention an inch thick the White 1315(those people selling these "industrial strength machines) should all be thrown off there for all the hype they advertise because most of them can barely sew 1/4".

So if you are really serious about want to sew an inch of leather you will need a Randall Unionlock this machine has a needle & awl.This machine sews thicker because the awl punches a hole for the needle to go in creating less drag on the needle.

Now if you go down to 3/4" then any of the Adler 205 or Juki 441 type of machine will work.

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The 15 class is a good machine - for what it was designed for - and will be ok for wallet liners with No69 thread.

What about the Singer Egyptian Sphinx Model 15?

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Bob, I want to belt the crap out of people who use the term "industrial strength" as it is about as valid as "half pregnant".

The Singer 15 is good and the Pfaff 30 is better (just ask Cindy Peters) but they have their limits. A guy rang me two days ago wanting to buy a 20U clone but when I asked the right questions it turned out he just wanted to sew wallet liners with #69 thread and he had a Pfaff 30 in his collection so I told him to use the Pfaff and save his pennies until he wanted a machine for heavier work. Strangely (in the long run) I do a lot of business with people I initially turn away. I like to build a relationship of trust rather than just a commercial relationship!

Tom is right what is thick to one person is thin to another.BUT you mention an inch thick the White 1315(those people selling these "industrial strength machines) should all be thrown off there for all the hype they advertise because most of them can barely sew 1/4".

So if you are really serious about want to sew an inch of leather you will need a Randall Unionlock this machine has a needle & awl.This machine sews thicker because the awl punches a hole for the needle to go in creating less drag on the needle.

Now if you go down to 3/4" then any of the Adler 205 or Juki 441 type of machine will work.

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Thanks for all the info Im going to go ahead and some some money and buy a Techsew 106 any advice on thread sizes and needle sizes would be greatly appreciated

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The White and Singer 15 are domestic machines. Anyone who sells them as "industrial strength" is a bullshit artist.

They are capable of sewing garment or light upholstery leather and nothing more.

Centennial Singer 15-91sewing machine I heard was good on thick leather?

I know I just repeated what I previously said - but in harsher terms - but it is a point I want people to see and understand.

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I ended up getting a used well maintained Juki DNU 1541 but i think it might need to be adjusted im not impressed with bottom stitch any ideas

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#1 are you sure it's threaded correctly,if so tighten the top tension alittle more or loosen the bottom.

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I have published and others have contributed to a long topic regarding the type of sewing machine you need to sew leather. Newbies to machine sewing of leather will get a lot of fetchin' up reading this before buying an old iron machine on eBay, or your local Craigslist, or Sally Ann store (with some exceptions).

The so-called "industrial strength" (often misspelled) machines are domestic machines designed to sew shirts and pants. Every one is a bottom feed, flat foot machine. They do not sew thick leather (anything over 1/4"), with many maxing out at only 3/16 inch. None of them keep multiple layers aligned, because the drive is entirely on the bottom, with the steel foot holding down the top, to keep it from lifting with the needle, which would cause skipped stitches. Most can not tension thread heavier than #69 bonded (T70), or #80 polyester jeans thread. To even sew with these relatively thin threads requires the largest needle commonly available for that class of machine (#18 or a "topstitch needle").

I read a post eralier in this topic where a member asked about a White sewing machine. If it has the same rubber friction wheel drive as the old metal body Kenmore, it barely powers through denim. The slightest resistance from the material causes the motor to slip against the handwheel and rubs a channel into the little rubber wheel on the motor. You'd end up hand-wheeling through leather, as the motor is useless.

All domestic sewing machines have teensie weensie motors on the back or inside the body. The ones that shipped with the machines of the early 20th Century were usually rated at no more than a half amp at 110 volts AC. That's about 55 watts of power.This was sufficient to power through cotton shirts. Later around the middle of the Century, motors became available rated at up to 1 amp. Now, one can buy replacement motors rated at up to 1.5 amps, or 150 watts. That is it for the domestic motors on the back of the machine. Machines with built in motors, or pod motors, cannot be upgraded.

While the 1 and 1.5 amp motors will power a machine through denim and canvas and leather vests, they bog down when you try to sew belts or pancake holsters. Their torque is somewhere around 1/10th horsepower.

In contrast, an industrial walking foot sewing machine, mounted onto a k-legs table and steel frame, is usually powered by a clutch or servo motor rated at about 500 to 600 watts. They often draw 5 amps under load and are rated at about 1/2 to 3/4 horse power. They are 4 to 5 times more powerful than the strongest domestic sewing machine motor.

Walking foot machines have triple feed from a coordinated motion of bottom feed dogs-needle and inside foot. An outside presser foot lifts to allow the feed motion, then lowers to hold the material securely between stitches and the needle ascends and the knots are formed. A typical true industrial walking foot machine can sew 3/8 inch of veg-tan, bridle, or latigo leather. They power through chrome tan like butter. These are upholstery class machines. Many have 50% larger M style bobbins. Juki machines are available with even larger, double capacity LU style bobbins. An average upholstery class machine can sew with #138 thread, top and bottom; double what any domestic machine can think of handling. Specially setup machines in this class can handle #207 thread.

Then, if one becomes serious about sewing leather, one will learn about the 441 class machines that sew over 3/4 inch, with 44 pound test #277 thread and heavier (346, 415).

Edited by Wizcrafts

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