Major Cracks...

[PirateWolf]

Hi there,

I just dyed and finished a little keychain; when I went to bend the leather around the key ring, cracks developed (picture attached). Does anyone know why this happened? I used the Eco-Flo Pro dye line and the coorisponding matte finish.

Super new so feel free to throw out any ideas!

Thank you!!

[RiverCity]

I can't tell you for sure why it cracked. Maybe finish was too thick?

But a tip, if you fold and or crease the leather before you finish it, it puts less stress on a topcoat when you do final assembly.

Chuck

[TomG]

Based on the photo and looking at the holes, I'd say that 1 - the leather is too thick at the bend. That's more than the finish cracking. So - you need to skive it down about 50% thickness from before the bend to the tip.

2 - Wet the back of the leather and let it sit for a few minutes to soak in before you bend it.

And like RiverCity said, let the thing dry after bending and then put your finish on.

[PirateWolf]

Ahhh ok. Great advice, thank you so much!!

Tom, sorry, now I have another question for you: "you need to skive it down about 50% thickness from before the bend to the tip" - how would I do this?

Thanks again!

[TomG]

You use a skiver. Tandy has a couple and other suppliers do as well. Usually around $15 or so.

As you get more involved, you might invest in a leather splitter. But then you're talking $300 and up unless you can find a good one used. they key word being "good".

Here's photos of the 2 from Tandy...

[PirateWolf]

Thank you so much!! Have a great day!

[Northmount]

Your photo shows the surface of the leather actually cracked, not just the finish. So cure is like mentioned above, skive the leather thinner, and dampen the leather so the surface can stretch without cracking. If your leather is really dry, maybe even old, so really dried out, you need to add some natural oils to help condition the leather, but don't get carried away with it. More is not better!

Tom

[coop]

I have been using fiebings dyes and eco flo super sheen as the finish. I haven't had any issues with it till now, but I have a strap that I finished last month and went to punch the holes today, when the finish started cracking on it. It continued to crack throughout the whole strap. What advice is there too prevent this the strap is 6-7 oz. I did not oil this one before dying could that have been the cause? I don't want to put out anymore straps till I figure out the cause. Most straps I work and flex the leather throughout the process.

[Tree Reaper]

I use neatsfoot oil on just about everything I make out of leather.

The finish will crack if it's too thick but if the leather is cracking then it could be too dry or too stale.

I will also skive and wet on sharp bends.

Edited December 15, 2013 by Tree Reaper

[lightingale]

With dog collars, I bend them over the buckle area right after tooling, while the leather is still cased. If it's not cased, I wet it with a sponge.

I also dye and finish it while it's already bent into the shape I want.

[coop]

I will start oiling the leather before dying. I am also using a better quality leather now also. Once the finish is applied how can you keep the leather conditioned?

[Ski]

I always bend the leather while its wet, before I dye.

Resolene (aka super sheen?) is like plastic to me, and does not like to be bent to excess. As mentioned above, I then apply carnauba crème, neatsfoot oil, and if needed seal it with resolene. Hope this helps

[Cyberthrasher]

Resolene (aka super sheen?) is like plastic to me, and does not like to be bent to excess. As mentioned above, I then apply carnauba crème, neatsfoot oil, and if needed seal it with resolene. Hope this helps

Resolene and Super Sheen are NOT the same product. Super Sheen is an attempt at copying Resolene, but should never be classified as the same. But, it is true that if you apply Resolene wrong it will come out like plastic and crack under stress. ALWAYS apply it 50/50 with water and use several LIGHT coats to build up your coverage.

[Ski]

Yes Cyberthrasher that's what I do. No idea about super sheen never used it but I hear its very similar, hence why I mentioned it may be the cause of the cracks in above picture.

[coop]

I've been using the Super Sheen with no issues so far and use light coats. I have wondered about the Resolene but I had heard some horror stories about that also. I'm thinking it was just some really dried out leather and I haven't been in the habit of oiling my leather before finishing. The cracks were deep and not just in the finish. Lesson learned on keeping the leather hydrated.

[Chief31794]

There are many finishes on the market and IMO Super Sheen is the next to the last one on the list. I like Clear Lac best, Resolene (Cut 50/50 with distilled water) next, Angelus High Gloss (isn't really high gloss), TanKote (Cut 50/50 with Distilled Water), Fiebings Aussie if weather protection is an issue. The worst product I've tried is Saddle Lac and then comes super sheen from tandy just a little ahead of Saddle Lac.

Just my opinion, I'm sure others have their favorites.

Chief

[Cyberthrasher]

Just my opinion, I'm sure others have their favorites.

Chief

I haven't tried Angelus, but mine are Resolene, Clear-Lac, RTC Sheridan Resist, then Tan-Kote. I'm slowing trying to build up to using more Clear-Lac. My first experience with it was a disaster because I didn't know what I was doing. It kind of scarred me a little. That said, I saved my first ever bottle of Super Sheen. I use it when I'm teaching someone how to do stuff. It's gotta be good for something.

[TomG]

There are many finishes on the market and IMO Super Sheen is the next to the last one on the list. I like Clear Lac best, Resolene (Cut 50/50 with distilled water) next, Angelus High Gloss (isn't really high gloss), TanKote (Cut 50/50 with Distilled Water), Fiebings Aussie if weather protection is an issue. The worst product I've tried is Saddle Lac and then comes super sheen from tandy just a little ahead of Saddle Lac.

Chief

I haven't used Clear Lac, but I have used Saddle Lac. The only issue I've had so far is that it seems hard to spray on a very light coat. And too thick of a coat will make it actually flake off.

In your experience, what is the difference and why do you not like the SL?

[Chief31794]

I haven't used Clear Lac, but I have used Saddle Lac. The only issue I've had so far is that it seems hard to spray on a very light coat. And too thick of a coat will make it actually flake off.

In your experience, what is the difference and why do you not like the SL?

Same thing as you. Try some clear lac, I apply it with sheep wool and basically rub it in, it is a lacquer based finish, dries quickly, doesn't flake or crack and looks really good. There are some dyes that it will "dissolve" it seems so I use it mostly on Angelus Dyes, Fiebing Antique Dyes. I don't use it on Fiebings USMC, when I use Fiebings USMC I use Resolene (50/50) on it.

Saddle Lac would probably be okay if it were not in a spray can and you could cut it 50/50 with Distilled Water. But to me it is too tacky and too thick.

Like I said, thats just my opinion.

Chief

[OdinUK]

I've had some success with Saddle Lac, I hold the can about 8 inches above the work and spray a light coat and keep it moving reasonably fast but consistent, as if using a paint spray gun. I practiced on some scraps at first till I got the hang of what gave me a suitable thin coating. Keep the coatings thin. I usually apply one thin coat, sometimes I apply another thin coat after the first has completely dried, I tend to leave it overnight. I use this method on my back patches and its worked well (if you require a slightly glossy finish). After every couple of passes I wipe the buildup at the nozzle, if you don't do this you can get some splatter which can spoil a job.

I have recently been experimenting with Cyberthrasher's advice with Resolene mixed 50/50, and I apply it with an airbrush. Ive had great results so far. Thanks!