Has Anyone Built Their Own Industrial Sewing Tables? --Can You Critique My Idea?

[SARK9]

Since the topic of tables came up yet again, I thought I'd add my latest DIY effort in table top replacements. This machine came with an abbreviated "L" shaped top which was quite prone to catch larger draping items as they traveled across the surface. I was able to harvest a few desk bridging sections from our engineering dept. when they upgraded all their work stations...its some type of super high density compressed fiber product which comes with a good Formica-type surface and nice edge banding. They are slightly more compact in size at 23-1/2 X 42". I leaned on a friend to cut out a nice aluminum router template on the water jet....  Perfect inletting every time from now on.

-DC

[AdamPCain]

So many nice tables I now have to redo mine

[DonInReno]

That’s a very nice template!!

[Uwe]

I built a table for a sunken 5-thread Juki MO-816 serger for a client. Not precisely a leather machine, but a rather challenging table to build.

The tabletop and suspended shelf are made of two layers of 3/4" plywood, phenolic and baltic birch plywood, screwed together. The black laser-cut acrylic rings on the suspended shelf keep the machine's rubber feet in place to keep the machine from wandering as you sew.

 

Edited July 28, 2018 by Uwe

[dikman]

Very neat job, albeit a slightly weird design . You used  lot of screws on that job Uwe.

[DonInReno]

Nice looking design

[Uwe]

8 hours ago, dikman said:

You used  lot of screws on that job Uwe.

The phenolic plywood does not lend itself to glueing because nothing sticks to that slick coating. So screws it is, and lots of them. Makes for a very solid table top, though. 

[brmax]

Thats a real nice job there Uwe. 

Its a pro version of the typical serger design, a class act!

I been meaning to ask if that plywood you use is an mdo with a seal coat on it, or possibly a formica. On another note I sure wished I had access to the metal brake as in bending the aluminum for the corner structure pieces. 

Good day

Floyd

 

ps; i just seen your other reply of phenolic plywood, Interesting. 

[thesergeant]

Some really great tables here.  Uwe, that serger table is fantastic.  

Here's my latest table for my recently acquired Juki Double Needle, Split Bar, Needle Feed sewing machine.  The head is probably 100 pounds and warped the original table it came with.  I've been using solid walnut butcher block tops for all my other tables, and absolutely love them, but recently I was at Ikea and they had an 96"x25" 'countertop' for sale for in the scratch and dent area for $100.  I couldn't resist.  It's 1.5" chipboard with a 3/32" walnut veneer.  I had to cut 2.5" off the front and back and redo the edgebanding but that didn't take long.  After I made the cutout I tested the head in the top and it just about snapped the table in half.  There was more than a 1/4" bend in the top and I knew it was just a matter of time before it started cracking like the last chipboard table top.  There was just no way the material was going to be able to support this heavy of a machine head, especially with an oversize cutout.  So, I welded a steel support structure around the perimeter of the cutout to support the machine.  No risk of bowing/breaking and the table is rock solid.  I thought the matte black legs would work well with the walnut and the black accents on the machine.  I'm going to have to paint the legs on my Juki bartacker to match now though.   The dimensions of the legs match my other tables, which were modeled after the original Singer H leg tables.  I couldn't be happier and the top was MUCH cheaper than solid walnut.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 29, 2018 by thesergeant

[dikman]

Nice looking job there, sarge. the walnut and black (satin finish?) go well together. Just be careful not to scratch it when you use it .

[Uwe]

Beautiful table @thesergeant, love the wood veneer pattern. Your camera work is just a nice. Some shots look like they're from a special issue of Elle Décor: "How to decorate with industrial sewing machines". 

[Trox]

On 28.7.2018 at 6:05 AM, Uwe said:

I built a table for a sunken 5-thread Juki MO-816 serger for a client. Not precisely a leather machine, but a rather challenging table to build.

The tabletop and suspended shelf are made of two layers of 3/4" plywood, phenolic and baltic birch plywood, screwed together. The black laser-cut acrylic rings on the suspended shelf keep the machine's rubber feet in place to keep the machine from wandering as you sew.

 

Very nice job Uwe!

[Trox]

And I love those plates too, using them for my creasing machine table I'm building soon.

[Firestar1485]

Trox ... that is a ridiculously beautiful piece of art!  Fantastic craftsmanship!

[myjtp]

So I have dabbled in a little wood working and was thinking of doing a butcher block style top for my Consew 206RB-2 machine.  

Should I just resurface the existing table OR make my own butcher block OR just buy a butcher block table top and cut out my own place for the sewing machine? or just stick with the old school green table and just focus on sewing dangit!

Here is a blog i found where the girl redid her table but I might want to replace the top and route out my own hole opening etc.

https://theprojectlady.com/trimming-collection-bag-for-industrial-serger-sewing-machine-diy-tutorial/

i LOVE the darker wood top and the flat black legs

the image below i think was before she painted the bottom flat black. like pictured above.

[Scottwb96]

Reviving an older thread for a follow-on question...  I am needing to build a new table for a Singer 144W302 (30" long arm) I recently acquired. The existing table has some rot where the hinge cutouts are. Luckily I can use it as a template for the cutouts so that's good!

My question(s):
1. Thought's on a minimum table thickness for this BEAST of a machine?
2. Butcher block or stacked sheets of plywood? 99% sure will be adding a white laminate to the surface.
3. Existing table is pretty MASSIVE (~72"x34") I already have 2 other tables that this one will marry up to for the flow of the larger projects. So was thinking of cutting it back a bit, something like ~30" x ~60" see any red flags with doing that?

Table will reuse the existing leg/foot hardware that's on casters...

 

Appreciate any insight/thoughts you all may have!!!

 

[kgg]

14 minutes ago, Scottwb96 said:

My question(s):
1. Thought's on a minimum table thickness for this BEAST of a machine?
2. Butcher block or stacked sheets of plywood? 99% sure will be adding a white laminate to the surface.
3. Existing table is pretty MASSIVE (~72"x34") I already have 2 other tables that this one will marry up to for the flow of the larger projects. So was thinking of cutting it back a bit, something like ~30" x ~60" see any red flags with doing that?

First off the head is going to weight in around 180 kg (400lb) and the table top has a large hole cut out of it so the table top needs to be real sturdy. I would make sure with whatever material you are going to use it is going to be able to take the load and you may wind up using additional metal support under the table top bolted or welded to the existing frame. If I'm not mistaken the original table top was 2" thick hardwood plywood with a laminated top glue to it.

I would NOT use Butcher block as it will not be as strong as plywood, will have a higher tendency to wrap / crack but it will look pretty. The thickest plywood I have seen is 1 1/4" which is actually slightly smaller due to the sanding process. If you choose to use the standard easily available 3/4" plywood and glue them together make sure the grain of one is 90 degrees opposite to the other.

I would suggest: i) additional angle iron metal bracing under the table top to help support the front and rear edge weight of the machine along the cutout section ii) use three pieces of 3/4" plywood glue together but that would depend on the type of plywood (softwood or hardwood) and iii) do some calculations on the strength of the type of plywood for the load to determine the type and size of plywood needed. Remember that plywood will warp / buckle / fail if not properly supported.

Just my thoughts.

kgg

[dikman]

A good plywood should be stronger (particularly if you laminate a couple of layers) and I agree with kgg about using metal angle iron underneath to give additional support, given the weight of the head unit. I used the same idea on one of my tables.

[Scottwb96]

Appreciate the input! The machine head isn't 400lbs (LOL) I lifted it by myself out of the back of SUV and carried it into my shop. And as "strong" as I'd like to think I am, I am definitely not 400# lifting, walking, setting down strong!!!

I was definitely planning of adding some angle iron underneath. I had also found a butcher block that was 3" thick I was considering using. The current (decaying) table was only about 1.75" thick. Was hoping that almost doubling the thickness and adding the additional supports (that aren't currently on the stand) that it would work well...

Thoughts?

[Tim Schroeder]

2 pcs of 3/4" Birch plywood glued and screwed with a 3/4" band running all the way around the outside would look like a solid chunk of wood for the table. No plywood edges. Done right and you can hardly see the seam. 

Being able to build your table can save you a lot of money. This table is a work in progress. Had a Singer 108W20 then a Singer 153W103 then a Class 4 then a Class 26 and now a Sewing Machine GA441.  The flat bed  table is a Cobra Class 4 flat bed with the rest of the scrap Formica . All the scrap Formica came from a job I did. Came up with a faster and stronger method for attaching it. No tools needed.  Big hand knobs from underneath with threaded inserts in the bottom of the flat bed table legs to hold it place. Last two pictures are the original motor and speed reducer set up. This set up will move closer to the wall because of the new location of the motor.

K legs                                                        $100

Presser foot lifter pedal                          $20

Plywood & 1x3 for the lower top &                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                and thread cab                                         $40

Motor                                                         $129

Speed reducer 12" pulley off Ebay        $31

2" pulley (Dad's garage)                               0

Bearing Blocks  (Amazon)                      $13

Mercury Outboard 3/4" shaft                    0

Idler pulley (Tractor Supply)                   $12

Aluminum shafts and brake cable        $35

Lights                                                          $25

Full extension drawer guides                   $14

Cable for presser foot lifter                    $9

Rubber feet for legs                                $7

Belt for speed reducer                           $12

3 way plug                                                 $4

 

Table, Motor and speed reducer            $451 + a lot of head scratching and work.              

 

 

[Tim Schroeder]

This is my other sewing table. Corion top from an ice cream shop I remodeled. I put a lot more room to the right of the machine to set up a bobbin winding station. A little home sewing machine motor with a bobbin winder tire on the pulley. Winds 441 bobbins as fast as you want it to. As little as 5 seconds if you aren't careful.  I also have a Singer 31-20 with a roller foot I use in this table for sewing boot tops. That's what the arm rest bolted to front of the table is for. Lots of hand wheeling sewing boot tops. 

[dikman]

Very nice work, Tim, those big pulleys should give very slow speed!

Scott, if you've got a a butcher block that thick then by all means give it a try (but I would still put the angle iron underneath).

[Southerngunner]

On 3/16/2024 at 1:27 PM, Tim Schroeder said:

This is my other sewing table. Corion top from an ice cream shop I remodeled. I put a lot more room to the right of the machine to set up a bobbin winding station. A little home sewing machine motor with a bobbin winder tire on the pulley. Winds 441 bobbins as fast as you want it to. As little as 5 seconds if you aren't careful.  I also have a Singer 31-20 with a roller foot I use in this table for sewing boot tops. That's what the arm rest bolted to front of the table is for. Lots of hand wheeling sewing boot tops. 

  You are a very talented individual Sir. I will be bootlegging some of your home grown speed reducer ideas for that Cobra class  26 you sold me. Thanks for being a stand up guy to deal with. 

Great job to all the other folks for posting pics of some fantastic tables.

[Tim Schroeder]

@dikman It was more about torque. Well really about money. This has always been a hobby. Speed reducers were $175 and I have around $50 in the flat bed table speed reducer I did first. Motor is turning twice as fast as with speed reducers you can buy at the same sewing speed giving me more torque than with those speed reducers. Before I built the speed reducer I would try to sew slow with just a servo motor and it just didn't have the torque or punching power at the slow speed. Now full pedal is the fastest I would ever sew anything creating a lot more variable speed control in the foot pedal. It's not so sensitive to tiny movement.  I'm not sure about the servo motors today but I was using one of those old grunting noisy servo motors in the beginning. Repurposed it for a Naumkeag on my boot sanding machine.

@Southerngunner Really handy to be able to build your own table.  $1200 for the Class 26 I had for sale and $500 for a table with a new motor and speed reducer and somebody could have been in a New Condition Class 26 for $1700  and a little work and that's with a flip down roller guide and includes all shipping. That table is a lot more sturdy than the pedestal stands.

[Southerngunner]

On 3/18/2024 at 3:13 AM, Tim Schroeder said:

Really handy to be able to build your own table.  $1200 for the Class 26 I had for sale and $500 for a table with a new motor and speed reducer and somebody could have been in a New Condition Class 26 for $1700  and a little work and that's with a flip down roller guide and includes all shipping. That table is a lot more sturdy than the pedestal stands

Well here goes, I have started my own version of a Heavy duty table. I have 20' of 2 1/4" square tubing left over from a metal building that I had built, so since I was a welder / heavy equipment mechanic for years I decided to build the legs from that.

I will be implementing Tim's  12"/2" torque pulley set up and a new servo motor. I have started welding up the legs so I will update when I get far enough along for pictures. I will be putting casters on it because by time I add a top and the class 26 Cobra this sucker is going to be heavy