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Lippy

Splitter Blade Micro-Bevel Or Not?

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For those of you who own a pull-through splitter do you prefer a micro-bevel on the blade's cutting edge? I just purchased the small Tandy/Craftool splitter and noticed it comes with a very slight/small micro-bevel on the angled side of the blade. Straight out of the box the blade was only okay. After a little polishing of the blade's flat edge using 600 grit wet-dry paper laid on flat glass along with a little stropping it was much better. Most leather samples pulled through with just a little effort on my part. That said . . . would I get a sharper edge and better cut if I removed the blade's top side micro-bevel?

As for sharpening the flat side, isn't a piece of plate glass a flat enough surface for the wet-dry paper sharpening/polishing? I've read some posts suggesting the use of a granite "machinist grade" precision surface stone. Is that over-kill?

Actually, I'm please with my little splitter. It get's the job done without breaking the bank! Just trying to improve it's performance.

Thanks for your time,

Lippy

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I have some knowledge but not a pro. My understanding is that you do not want a secondary bevel on a splitter blade. Hone it down to a single bevel on a sheet of glass with 600 wet/dry paper held in place with spray glue. Once you have a single bevel switch to crocus cloth (about 2000 grit) paper. You will be amazed how well it will cut. I think Tandy puts the secondary bevel on them because it is faster and easier for the overseas factory to do. I just bought one of the skiving knives Tandy has on sale and the edge also has a large secondary bevel on it. It is not even usable as it is.

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Hey Electrathon,

Thanks for your suggestions.

Good luck with your classes at Oregon Leather. Heard last years classes went really well.

Cheers,

Lippy

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I had the opposite experience. On my Heritage, it was tough to use. After the local shop put a micro bevel on it, I could pull through 4 inch wide pieces with just my thumb and index finger.

Unfortunately, they are impossible to maintain by myself.

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As a former wholesale knife salesman I did a lot of testing on hand sharpening and also did a lot of hand sharpening. The only couple of things that I would add to this conversion is be to be careful of the temper at the micro edge. If dry sanding even by hand, take it very slow. You would be surprised how easy it is to heat a micro edge red hot. If it cools to fast it becomes brittle and if it cools too slowly it loses it gets soft and does not hold a edge long. You can only see this red hot micro edge in the dark under a microscope. It is very hard to detect as it cools almost as fast as it is generated. Also don't forget to strop the wire off of the edge. Most commercial new products, even if sharpened properly still have the wire edge on them that will roll at first cut a make them appear dull. That is one of the things that famous custom tool makers take extra time with that makes there products superior out of the box. The edges that I use a lot, I have touched up on a machine from time to time by a pro. -- Tex

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Hey Electrathon,

Thanks for your suggestions.

Good luck with your classes at Oregon Leather. Heard last years classes went really well.

Cheers,

Lippy

One of the things Paul is going to cover is sharpening. He is very smart in this area. Still space available. Aaron

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Electrathon,

It's a timing issue. I'll try to make it next time.

Paul is a great guy and I'm surprised he hasn't stepped in with a comment on my micro-bevel question.

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Hi,

I am not an expert on blades or splitters. However, I understand that the power of a micro bevel is that you do not have to polish the whole edge, only the small secondary edge. And perhaps a small edge creates less drag too (on some materials). The drawback on a leather splitter blade would be the angle of this secondary edge, it would not be perfect. I do not understand why a micro bevel will hold up longer than a conventional edge. And if you cannot maintain it yourself what use would it be in a pull true splitter (or a leather knife). Tandy blades are not the ones that keep sharp very long, will an extra edge give them better steel?

This remains me about the discussion we had about hollow ground and regular ground splitter blades. I have still to see some of this new stuff beat what they made 100 years ago, not in my life time I think.

Tor

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:rofl: I am afraid this is cutting edge technology

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By having a secondary bevel on the blade it changes the angle of cutting to a more blunt angle. This is extreme but think a maul instead of a knife. The more blunt edge does not cut as well but it holds an edge longer. It is also a lot easier to sharpen at the factory. Look at your blade and how rough the grind is on the primary bevel, it would be harder to properly polish out the entire edge so they tip it up and do a final grind. Even their final grind is poor, but it is what it is, you did not buy it because it was quality, you bought it because it was cheap. You can take it in to a sharpening shop, or for almost no money and a lot of time you can hone it to a scary sharp single bevel. The only issue that is sort of an unknown is the quality of the knife blade. Low quality steel is easy to sharpen and fast to dull.

:rofl: I am afraid this is cutting edge technology

Now we have knife humor...

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By having a secondary bevel on the blade it changes the angle of cutting to a more blunt angle. This is extreme but think a maul instead of a knife. The more blunt edge does not cut as well but it holds an edge longer. It is also a lot easier to sharpen at the factory. Look at your blade and how rough the grind is on the primary bevel, it would be harder to properly polish out the entire edge so they tip it up and do a final grind. Even their final grind is poor, but it is what it is, you did not buy it because it was quality, you bought it because it was cheap. You can take it in to a sharpening shop, or for almost no money and a lot of time you can hone it to a scary sharp single bevel. The only issue that is sort of an unknown is the quality of the knife blade. Low quality steel is easy to sharpen and fast to dull.

Now we have knife humor...

I agree with your every word

Tor

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