Another Edging Thread - How Do You Paint Your Edges?

[KandB]

Hi everyone,

I've been poring over the forum threads learning all I can about finishing edges - burnishing and all - I want to do Bob Park's method, but in all my experiences I've run into a problem when it comes to using edge paints: how do you paint JUST the edge and not have any of the paint spill on to the front or back of the leather? I've tried a paint brush, dauber, q-tip, sponge - they almost always result in some paint on the front and back instead of only on the edge - and I see Bob (and everyone else who knows how to do this) has amazing contrasting edges with not a drop of colour on the front or back. So - what's the secret?

I was looking at one of those electric edging tools - will that help?

I work mainly in oil tanned 4-6oz and I'd like to have my edges neatly finished so they don't fray and fold.

Thanks!

[Dwight]

You and I share a common anomaly, . . . can't do the edge thingy.

FWIW, . . . I gave up, . . . just plain quit. I sand my edges smooth, . . . use my edging tool(s), . . . and using a little water, . . . (emphasis on "little" ), . . . I burnish with either a 1 horsepower / 1725 rpm motor with a 3/4 inch wooden rod, . . . or my Dremel, . . . or a combination of both.

If I cannot get it to lay down like I want it to, . . . I very sparingly add some virgin beeswax, . . . or cake/bar glycerin soap.

My edges are very clean looking, . . . polished, . . . just not colored.

Once I add my usual finish of Resolene, . . . they look very good, . . . and in most cases the burnishing process itself causes the edges to become a shade or two darker than the original, . . . but that is never a guarantee, . . . sometimes it reverts back to the dyed color.

May God bless,

Dwight

[TomG]

Some folks use a piece of 1/2" felt, dip in dye or edge dressing and pull along the edge.

I usually use a modified wool dauber. I take it outside and use a lighter to burn it until it's about 1/4" in diameter. It's not critical.

Once it's the size I want, I blow it out and knock the shell off. This leaves a hard, roundish ball with a handle. Dip into dye or edge dressing and apply to the edge.

I usually use the edge dressing as if I miss and get a little on the front, I can wipe it off as long as I do it immediately.

All of this is after I do the edge burnishing stuff.

Edited September 30, 2013 by TomG

[Tree Reaper]

I use a foam brush, mink oil on the finished side and masking tape on the flesh side.

[PappyUSA]

I use a 3” paint roller with oil dye or 50/50 trag and just lightly drag it along the edge and seldom make a boo boo. I don't use those fluffy type rollers I use the thin cheap ones.

[Spartan]

From time to time I use a permanent marker.

[WScott]

This was a good thread. Especially the sand after paint, paint again, sand, paint again...You can get some smooth edges this way.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=50391&hl=

[Cyberthrasher]

I only use Dye on my edges, or the occasional marker for a touch up. So, with that in mind, a properly slicked/burnished edge will prevent the dye from bleeding through to the front and back of the leather, restricting it to the edge only. From there, it's just practice in making sure that the edge is all you touch with your applicator - whether it's a sponge, dauber, roller, etc...... Lately I've been switching between the sponge brush and a burnt wool dauber. Another trick is to apply your finish (resolene, lac, whatever) to the front and back before doing your edges. That way if you slip, you can usually hurry up and wipe it off before it has time to settle through the finish.

[Basically Bob]

A couple of things that I have found really helpful ...

- burnish in the same direction that the leather was cut. You will know which direction is correct by rubbing a finger lightly over the edge of the leather - one direction is normally smoother than the other - that's the direction to burnish.

- I get the cleanest lines by using good quality wool felt, cut in a strip, folded over and held in a wooden clothes pin - as illustrated in Al Stohlman's "The Art of Making Leather Cases (volume one). It also really helps to singe the fuzz off of the edge of the wool with a lighter. I prefer this over wool daubers.

Here's the process I like:

- lightly wet the edge and burnish.

- dye

-burnish

- lightly apply gum trag

-burnish

-lightly apply leather balm and wax

=burnish/polish

I burnish, either with a piece of light canvas (cut from a painter's drop sheet) by hand or a canvas covered cylinder on my drill press. ... or both.

[KandB]

Thanks everyone -

I tried burning a dauber and it was definitely better - I'll try out all the other tools you all suggested and see what gives me the best one. I had used a paintbrush (a fine one) for edgepaint before, but I still got dye on the flesh side and I don't want to ruin an entire bag at the finishing stage!

Has anyone tried finishing edges on oil tanned leather, rather than vegtan and latigo? I tried the technique Bob Parks mentions on my oil tanned work, and it didn't really make a noticeable difference -whereas on my latigo projects it was amazing.

[WScott]

Oil tan is definitely a different beast.

I have used neatsfoot oil but gotta be careful not to slop it all over, also done gum trag that seemed to do well on the Horween. Both sealed with bees wax or saddle soap

Have also just left it as a cut edge for a more rustic look to a bag.

[KandB]

I normally leave it as a cut edge - but I don't like seeing a project that has several layers, with the layers folding/splitting because they haven't been finished together.

[WScott]

I have been babbling on about Horween Chromexel in a couple posts.

One of the nice things about this waxy feeling pull up leather is it edges nicely with friction and a bit of gum trag

These guys have some if you are in the neighbourhood

http://www.lonsdaleleather.com/

[KandB]

I have some horween, I'll try it, but I have crazyhorse which is similar with pullup and it still doesn't clean up as nicely. It's not even stricken through. The Tandy stone oiled and kodiak are both not great when it comes to finishing the edges, though I suspect its more what I'm doing than the leather. Never tried gum trag though.

[WScott]

Gum trag to smooth fibers down and then some bees wax and friction to burnish.

Saddle soap works as well, but I found gum trag was faster.

Test it out on some scrap, see if it works out to your liking

Edited October 2, 2013 by WScott

[KandB]

The gum trag is amazing - thank you for the recommendation. Night and day compared to what I saw doing before!

[jackd942]

Nice thread here...lots if different styles/opinions. Guess it comes down to trial and error and what works for you.

[VonTannin]

I have had the absolute best results with those cheap foam chisel brushes you can get in almost any art or paint department of any store that has such a department.

I mark on the wooden handle what color dye, or edge paint I used the brush for, wash it out when I'm finished, and they last for a very long time.

If you're just careful when pulling the brush around you're edges you shouldn't have a problem. Occasionally it does go over the side, just prepared with a paper towel and wipe it off before it has time to set into the leather.

[treybecca]

I personally love love love Quik Slick from Sheridan leather. Much more consistent results the gum trag and less money per ounce. As for color I use a big ole pro Sharpie with a chiseled end and I get clean results everytime. I guess some folks would consider it cheating, but pretty sure they wouldn't be able to tell the difference

[axmay]

I have tried all kinds of edge finishing gums. The one I have found to be absolutely the best so far is Seiwa Tokonole. I have also learned it is important to use any finishing gum or other liquid very sparingly - I now use my finger. If it is too wet then when burnishing the leather gets "smooshed." A little goes a long way using as little pressure as possible to generate the necessary friction. This has all been trial and error and reading a lot of forums, including this one.

Seriously I love the Seiwa - I have no interest in the product. I like it because it is like a cream and viscous. It is much harder to apply too much as it would be with the gum tragacanths that I have bought in the past. Also, because it is creamy it is unlikely to spill over your edge onto the front or back of your work. It gets a really good shine.

In solidarity with the others in this thread I too find edge painting to be both an art and science - one which I have yet to master. Either my roller gets stuck and does not spin freely (often) or I find that the paint settles thin and I can still see the seam through the edge paint. I sand and try to "push" the dry paint to hide the seam. Not very effective. 

Does anyone know of a good substance to use to fill the small seam cracks that will take leather paint afterward? 

[bikermutt07]

+1 for the tokonole. It is great on the edges and saddle soap will remove it from the grain side. It is also super awesome on glass slicking the flesh side. I just used it on some 3oz. w&c for a wallet. It was almost no effort at all. Came out very shiny and polished looking.

As far as dying the edge? I usually use full strength dye (even if the surface has been diluted). It takes me 2 coats.

I do this after I sand and edge, but before I burnish.

I use a small "firm" paint brush and the edge of my work table for a guide. This is not a cheap fluffy fuzzy dollar store brush. It is a firm artist's paint brush. I clipped the end to about 20 degrees. I got it from Raysouth when he was retiring.

I hold the brush with my thumb, index, and middle fingers. I keep my ring and pinky fingers straight up against the edge of my table. This works for me.

I also use this method to apply the tokonole. I just rinse the brush in hot water after I'm finished with each process.

Edited June 4, 2017 by bikermutt07

[Myim74]

On 9/30/2013 at 6:27 AM, KandB said:

Hi everyone,

I've been poring over the forum threads learning all I can about finishing edges - burnishing and all - I want to do Bob Park's method, but in all my experiences I've run into a problem when it comes to using edge paints: how do you paint JUST the edge and not have any of the paint spill on to the front or back of the leather? I've tried a paint brush, dauber, q-tip, sponge - they almost always result in some paint on the front and back instead of only on the edge - and I see Bob (and everyone else who knows how to do this) has amazing contrasting edges with not a drop of colour on the front or back. So - what's the secret?

I was looking at one of those electric edging tools - will that help?

I work mainly in oil tanned 4-6oz and I'd like to have my edges neatly finished so they don't fray and fold.

Thanks!

Hello this might be off topic but do you know if there is any way to re liquefy harden edge paint in the bottle it came in?

 

a shame to just throw away~~

Hello this might be off topic but do you know if there is any way to re liquefy harden edge paint in the bottle it came in?

 

[fredk]

Check if its an acrylic; if it is, add alcohol - methylated spirits, IPA, vodka. Let it soak over night; shake and stir and see if it starts to dissolve into the alcohol. If it does keep repeating the adding/shaking/stirring over a number of days. If it doesn't show any signs of dissolving its too far gone.

IMHO it's cheaper and better to throw it away and buy a fresh bottle

[Myim74]

Thanks for the reply will try it out and let you know ^^