Watch Strap Prototype

[tossik]

Do you always use Blanchard N.10? Great work by the way!

[cjmt]

Do you always use Blanchard N.10? Great work by the way!

Thanks! I do for watch straps. You could go finer but it's a nice stitch size I think

Charlie

[hitokiri8]

I just stumbled on this thread and love the work you're doing! Definitely among the best watch straps I've seen. Curious about how you're achieving the desired thicknesses/weight of the leather. Are you ordering in 1mm thicknesses or splitting down to those thicknesses using a machine? Or perhaps by hand?

Keep up the great work and I'll have to save up to purchase a strap!

[cjmt]

I just stumbled on this thread and love the work you're doing! Definitely among the best watch straps I've seen. Curious about how you're achieving the desired thicknesses/weight of the leather. Are you ordering in 1mm thicknesses or splitting down to those thicknesses using a machine? Or perhaps by hand?

Keep up the great work and I'll have to save up to purchase a strap!

Thanks for the kind words! Sorry I haven't replied earlier, I missed the post. Most of our straps are made using leather thats already the right thickness from the tannery or merchant - much easier that way, though given a big enough splitter it could be done on site.

Charlie

[mishkin]

I also recently came across this thread. Charlie thank you so much for sharing all the knowledge and showing such nice watch straps. Would you mind revealing how you create such fine creases on the edges of the straps?

[cjmt]

I also recently came across this thread. Charlie thank you so much for sharing all the knowledge and showing such nice watch straps. Would you mind revealing how you create such fine creases on the edges of the straps?

I use a filiteuse with a creasing attachment but you could narrow bladed traditional creasing iron as well, the effect would be similar.

Charlie

[mishkin]

I use a filiteuse with a creasing attachment but you could narrow bladed traditional creasing iron as well, the effect would be similar.

Charlie

Thanks, Charlie.

[Pip]

Yes, basically exactly that, some goat or thinned bridle leather stitched around a spacer. We hand stitch everything, including these. They are basically very simple things - the devil is in the detail though and I find you (or at least I) have to try really hard on something this little and fiddly to get the finish and detail just right, they are very unforgiving and really show up flaws in your work.

Charlie

Yes I get you, been trying for days to get one right but still not happy with the edges. Did you use edge seal, or some such, or just burnish?

Pip

[Madebynick]

Charlie!

This was very inspiring work! I had been meaning to try a watch strap for a while now. Here is my first attempt (without edge treatment / hot glazing - pictures to follow detailing this process)

Thank you.

Edited April 3, 2015 by Madebynick

[cjmt]

Looks good!

[jwallace]

Sorry for resurrecting an old topic, but I just wanted to comment how helpful this thread has been. I also make watch straps and the information shared here has been both informative and inspiring.

@cjmt: I particularly liked your comment about using the finest materials. When I began, it was with two scrap packs from Tandy and Saddleback leather, obviously of marginal quality. I'm a small-time hobbyist and I've sold a few straps on Etsy, but man was it was tough to purchase that first side of Horween leather! Nonetheless, I see the difference in quality and even workability. The better materials, the easier the work (though it's never really "easy").

Edited May 27, 2015 by jwallace

[cjmt]

Glad it's been some help!

Charlie

[cjmt]

Couple of recent photos as nothing new has been posted for a while!

Charlie

[hitokiri8]

Beautiful work as always Charlie. What types of leather are those last two?

[cjmt]

Thank you. The brown strap is Sedgwick bridle leather and the lighter strap is Gold Barenia

Charlie

[Eemo]

A couple of questions. Using the watch strap, do you do any measures to prevent the buckle holes from stretching too much?

I find that some of my straps, after a year of use, become too loose to wear.

Another, what is your preferences for the lining?

thanks!

bonus pics of some of my straps.

[cjmt]

I've never found stretching of the holes or strap to be a problem. Maybe the leather your using is too thin or soft?

For lining on the whole we use un-dyed veg tan. It looks nice and feels comfortable to the touch

[izmarkie]

Beautiful work. Nice straps from all in this thread.

I'm getting the stitching, construction, and edges down on my watch straps, but one thing I'm really struggling with is cutting tapered straps. Charlie, how are you cutting your tapers?

I have done better by cutting slightly wide, gluing, then cutting to an outline or template once folded. Even this hasn't been totally consistent for me. I have seen videos of people cutting exotic leather tops and other linings separately with scissors but I can't imagine doing that myself without the edges being totally off.

I actually drew up what I wanted in CAD and printed to card stock for 18 mm lugs and 16 mm buckle. On softer stuff like suede it's hard to keep the template in place and keep the leather from moving enough to cut accurately. Sometimes I cut along a template and I find that I had the knife at a slight angle in spots while I'm trying to follow the curve instead of running the knife along a straight edge. I also contemplated getting my CAD templates for a few sizes made on a CNC machine so I have a metal template to hold down tight and run my knife along the edge.

Do I just need to work on steadying my hand, or is there a better way of cutting even tapers?

Thanks,

Alex

[Eemo]

hey alex,

I do a drawing with a mm paper:

and make the core piece/padding out of that one. then gluing, cutting etc the top leather plus the lining is pretty easy.

[tossik]

Couple of recent photos as nothing new has been posted for a while!

Charlie

Beautiful,

What thread size is that? I am planning on getting #10 Blanchard, and want to get best matching thread for it.

[cjmt]

Thanks Tossik. We tend to use 632

Regarding cutting the taper, a sharp knife, a pattern and practice is the best way. A steady hand comes through skill withy the tools, which comes with time (years not days) at the bench, imho at least

Charlie

[Eemo]

I got a question, anyone ever made a curved end strap?

[cjmt]

I got a question, anyone ever made a curved end strap?

Just using curved Spring bars will go along way towards getting a curved ended strap

[izmarkie]

I'm finding that a light touch and multiple passes with the knife really helps.

Also, I drew up a tapered strap template in CAD, and cardstock didn't cut it. Just got these from front panel express.

[25b]

Just got these from front panel express.

Got what from front panel express??