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I just finished a holster based on a previous holster I made, but this time I added collar brass my Dad wore in 1949 in the South African Engineer Corps. All hardware used on the holster is brass to go with the collar brass. The collar brass is mounted with the original pin in the back and can be removed if it needs to be cleaned. I did not want to make it a permanent mount since I wanted to keep the collar brass in its original state without any modifications.

I think overall it came out as planned, but I had a few execution issues. In a few areas the stitching line was not a consistent distance from the edge which is something I should focus on a bit more next time. The leather selection also wasn't that good, but that is all I had left. The leather selection is not a big deal since it is my holster. The holster retention is also better than I was hoping for, but I am thinking of trying to stretch it a bit more. Since the band holding the collar brass is so low, and the retention is more than what I anticipated, the holster is being pulled up when I draw the gun. I think what I want to do is put a piece of retention leather on the inside of the belt loop at the belt width distance from the top. This will then keep the holster from being pulled up. It wasn't part of the original design so I will probably stretch it first and then see if I still need to include it.

Any comments will be appreciated.

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post-43944-0-69905500-1387597029_thumb.p

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I like the design, Vaalpens. (I also love Sigs!). Very cool that you were able to use your Dad's collar brass..:)

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Because you have the suicide strap across the top, . . . I wouldn't worry too much about retention, . . . I'd stretch it.

One little "cheating" way you could easily overcome it is to go into the holster a bit below the belt width you want, . . . put a Chicago screw through the holster coming out of the back and through the loop. Looking at the holster itself, . . . it looks like you actually could put one on each side, . . . and both would miss the weapon itself if you drew them up tight.

But, . . . you did good, . . . I'm an old softie, personally, when I look at personalizing a piece with something as you did with the collar device, . . . and I really like that touch.

May God bless,

Dwight

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I like the design, Vaalpens. (I also love Sigs!). Very cool that you were able to use your Dad's collar brass.. :)

Ran, thanks for the nice comments. Sig is also my favorite gun. My next one will probably be a Sig 1911.

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Because you have the suicide strap across the top, . . . I wouldn't worry too much about retention, . . . I'd stretch it.

One little "cheating" way you could easily overcome it is to go into the holster a bit below the belt width you want, . . . put a Chicago screw through the holster coming out of the back and through the loop. Looking at the holster itself, . . . it looks like you actually could put one on each side, . . . and both would miss the weapon itself if you drew them up tight.

But, . . . you did good, . . . I'm an old softie, personally, when I look at personalizing a piece with something as you did with the collar device, . . . and I really like that touch.

May God bless,

Dwight

Dwight, thanks for the advise and nice comments. You are correct, the strap was incorporated because I was looking for less retention, but obviously got more than expected. The position of my stitch line probably did not completely include the thickness of the lined leather in the calculation. I was also thinking of using Chicago screws, but my concern is that it would be too much hardware in the back. I am probably leaning towards just stitching a piece of leather stop on the inside of the belt loop but I will first try an stretch it more. The nice thing about my design is that I can remove the strap from the belt loop if I want to redo the strap or add something to the belt loop.

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Vaalpens, I have to ask the question. Apparently you don't bevel and sand your edges. And it looks like you do not burnish much. No agenda and no criticism. Just because or what?

Ooops!! neat holster. I also like the medal. Sets the holster off and the color really makes it pop.

Edited by Red Cent

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Vaalpens, I have to ask the question. Apparently you don't bevel and sand your edges. And it looks like you do not burnish much. No agenda and no criticism. Just because or what?

Ooops!! neat holster. I also like the medal. Sets the holster off and the color really makes it pop.

Red Cent, I do bevel, sand and burnish the edges. Maybe I'm just not doing a good enough job. I thought I did a decent job on the edges, but probably not yet up to par. I will take some pictures of the edges during the day time and I would appreciate if you can give some additional comments on where I can improve. Edging and burnishing is probably one of those areas that takes time to master. Thanks for the constructive comments.

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No criticism here. Some love the raw edges. Some like the look of cleaned up edges without burnishing. And I am no way qualified to criticize anyone. Just curious. I do about what HidePounder does. He has a tutorial on this ite.

I guess what I noticed is the "corners" along the edges of the holster. From all I have read and practiced is "sand, sand, sand". I shape with a rubber sanding block using 120 grit. Then I take the long stuff off with 220. Most of the time I will finish it off with 400. With all this stuff removed and providing smooth curves, I find water and the wheel will slick the edge beautifully. Here is where there are numerous ways to capture the edge.

The eternal search continues for the perfect stuff to get a glass slick rounded edge and keep it.

Your edges are very clean and looks smooth. Again just curious.

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Nice job Vaalpens! I really like it.

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No criticism here. Some love the raw edges. Some like the look of cleaned up edges without burnishing. And I am no way qualified to criticize anyone. Just curious. I do about what HidePounder does. He has a tutorial on this ite.

I guess what I noticed is the "corners" along the edges of the holster. From all I have read and practiced is "sand, sand, sand". I shape with a rubber sanding block using 120 grit. Then I take the long stuff off with 220. Most of the time I will finish it off with 400. With all this stuff removed and providing smooth curves, I find water and the wheel will slick the edge beautifully. Here is where there are numerous ways to capture the edge.

The eternal search continues for the perfect stuff to get a glass slick rounded edge and keep it.

Your edges are very clean and looks smooth. Again just curious.

Red Cent, Thanks again for the advise. I looked a bit closer at my edges and I can now see what you are describing. It seems I used the edge beveler after sanding which left it without smooth edges. It is probably because I finished some of the edges then did the assembly and trimming and then edges again. Looks like one of those areas where my execution was not that good. Thanks again for the constructive input.

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Nice job Vaalpens! I really like it.

Jack, Thanks for the kind words and thanks again for giving me the idea to incorporate the collar brass.

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