First Machine: Singer 78-1 Vs. Singer 96K40

[AWilliamPast]

Hello Leatherworkers!

First post. Long time reader.

I have recently decided to take a leap into the world of sewing machines to tackle some bigger projects that would be too difficult to handle with hand stitching. I have an opportunity to purchase either a Singer 78-1 or Singer 96k40 which are both available and in my budget (sadly the singer 111w was neither). The thickest leather I will be sewing will be 2x5oz leather or possibly 2x6oz whereas the smallest would be two layers of 2oz. I believe both of these machines will handle this although the high end might be pushing it.

The 78-1 has a walking foot and can handle 138 thread, which is ideal.

However, the 96k40 is fully serviced and ready to go in amazing condition. Also, 'The Wiz' on this forum has spoken fairly highly of the 96k40 as it was his first industrial machine I believe.

Any and all insights and opinions to help guide my choice is greatly appreciated.

Excited,

Alexander

Thank you for the years of learning!

[Wizcrafts]

I don't recall speaking highly of the 96k40, just mentioning that it was my first mistake when I got into sewing leather. They are tailors' machines and nothing more. The only way I got it to sew a leather vest was by converting it into a roller foot machine, which involved replacing the foot, throat plate and feed dog. After all that, it would only properly tension #69 bonded thread, into not much more than about 3/16 inch of garment leather seams. It definitely sewed better on cloth than leather.

The Singer 78-1 is a double feed machine, without feed dogs. You may or may not have trouble maintaining a consistent stitch length, depending on the nature of the material and thickness changes.

You should be setting your sights on a true, compound feed, walking foot machine for leather work. Modern w.f. machines can sew with #138 thread, top and bottom, up to 3/8 inches of compressed material. They usually have reverse levers and long maximum stitch lengths. Some can even handle #207 thread, especially those with large bobbins.

Read my sticky post at the top of the Leather Sewing Machines forum for details about the type of machines you really need to sew various types and thicknesses of leather.

[AWilliamPast]

Thank you for responding,
I apologize, I apologize I must have misinterpreted your post.

Thank you for the information. I have read through your sticky post a few times although probably not as comprehensively as I could.
What would be a decent 'modern' walking foot machine? I have come across Cobra, Juki, Alder, and Pfaff, however these have all been out of my price ranges and not available locally second hand.
A brand and model of a modern, low-end, machine would be appreciated so that i could get an idea of what and where to look for.

Thanks again,

Alexander

[Wizcrafts]

Thank you for responding,

I apologize, I apologize I must have misinterpreted your post.

Thank you for the information. I have read through your sticky post a few times although probably not as comprehensively as I could.

What would be a decent 'modern' walking foot machine? I have come across Cobra, Juki, Alder, and Pfaff, however these have all been out of my price ranges and not available locally second hand.

A brand and model of a modern, low-end, machine would be appreciated so that i could get an idea of what and where to look for.

Thanks again,

Alexander

All of the brands you listed, plus, Chandler, Consew, Cowboy and Technew, just to name a few good brands. All of these companies make excellent triple feed walking foot machines, with large bobbins and reverse, to modern standards.

[AWilliamPast]

Thanks for all the info,
It seems that I will be going with the 78-1, as anything else is either unavailable second hand or completely and utterly out of my price range. I am excited for my first machine and am confident that it will be great to learn on. Im sure it will be well worth the 200$

Is there a good post, article, or video on maintenance and cleaning that I can refer to?

Regards
Alexander

[Wizcrafts]

This is a very old machine. Oil it when you get it set up in every available oil hole, including tilting the head back and oiling the connecting rods on the bottom. Then, oil it routinely, weekly for light use, or daily after heavy use. Use industrial sewing machine Lily oil only.

Hold the threads back before you start sewing. To lock the stitches, sew backwards about three stitches, then do the Poor Man's Reverse and sew forward to the end. Do another Poor Man's reverse to lock in the last three stitches.

Clean all the tension disks and guides, plus the bobbin basket and bobbin spring. Oil the revolving shuttle in which the bobbin sits.

Do not over stress the machine. It is for light sewing. Do not pull back too hard on the leather as you sew, or you will override the walking foot and needle feed. This will cause short and long stitches.

Use bonded nylon thread if possible.

Do not run it too fast or it may overheat and seize the bearings. 10 to 12 stitches per second should be the limit after all these years.

Get leather point needles for leather. Use round points for cloth, webbing and vinyl.

[AWilliamPast]

Wow, so much information!
I am planning on using #20 or #22 leather needles and bonded nylon #138.

I will most definitely not run it too fast. For me, the slower the better - more control. My lines veer if I go too fast.

Is there a solution i should clean with? Or just removing dust with swabs and tweezers?

If there is built up greasey gunk how should i go about cleaning that?

Lily oil - I bet that tip alone saved me cash and a few headaches.

Thank you for the guidance and tips. After having my head spin sifting through all the information out there this post has made me feel as if my feet are finally on some solid ground.

I appreciate it,

Alexander