Edge Finishing Problem - Discolored Leather Near Edge

[danboy295]

Hi All,

I have been having some issues with discolored edges and I am trying to figure out the cause and how to avoid them. After I burnish my edges, dye, and finish my piece, I am noticing discoloration near the edges. See the included photo, specifically along the edges near the Nerf blaster. The dye doesn't appear to take as cleanly near the edge as it does on other portions of the leather

My burnishing process was adapted from Bob Park's tutorial here on Leatherworker.net based on what I own. Steps I am using are below:

1) Bevel and sand my edges,

2) Wet the edges with water

3) rub glycerine soap into the edges

4) burnish by hand with canvas until edges are smooth

I am applying Fiebing's Professional Oil Dye via wool dobber when dyeing. I am seeing the issue with Dark Brown and Saddle Tan, but not when using Black. The dye is not penetrating despite several carefully applying several coats of dye.

My best guess is I am getting glycerine soap onto the surface of the leather when I am applying it to the edges. Or perhaps I am accidentally burnishing a portion of the top of leather as I am rubbing the edges with the canvas cloth. Before I have been dyeing, I have been taking a look at the surface of the leather and I am not seeing any obvious signs of excessive glycerine soap residue or inconsistent texture from over burnishing. I am stumped.

Has anyone encountered this issue and can you give me feedback on how to avoid it?

Edited April 4, 2014 by danboy295

[Tree Reaper]

"burnish my edges, dye, and finish my piece"

dye, finish with sealer, burnish, assemble.

Edited April 4, 2014 by Tree Reaper

[WinterBear]

That is exactly it. The glycerine in the soap itself is preventing the dye penetration. It is less of a problem with black because the dye is so dark that an area that has slightly less dye penetration is completely hidden/darkened by what dye does penetrate.

I know some people bevel, then dye, then burnish to avoid this, but I'm not sure how well that works and what problems that may entail either. (it may mean that the unburnished edges may pick up more dye, or may dye unevenly, for instance). Some also will only burnish first with water to prevent the fats in soaps and conditioners from getting on the surfaces they wish to dye, and to keep the dye from penetrating the edge so much. They will then often re-burnish with glycerine or wax after dying to finish the edge and bring the edge to its final gloss.

Edit: Seems Tree Reaper popped in as I was typing. Yeah, what he said.

Edited April 4, 2014 by WinterBear

[Red Cent]

I have stopped using the glycerin bar soap. And, in most cases, beeswax and/or parafin. On another post.

After I cut and glue, I square all the edges with a band sander and/or a drum sander. I bevel then I sand with a hand held hook and loop rubber block with 220 grit. I finish with a sponge that is impregnated with fine grit. Sponge forms a great rounded edge and removes the "hair" from the edge. I apply water with my fingertips (sparingly) and burnish with my home made dowel rod burnishing tool on a drill press. At this point, I usually have a glass smooth edge. I use Fieblings brown and black edge dye. When fully dry, I burnish again. Another glass smooth surface. Then, normally, I apply an acrylic I bought at Zack White. It is a proprietary coating that he doesn't advertise. My little plastic bottle has #250 hand written. I also have a large bottle of #300 also hand written. Let it thoroughly dry, buff with a t-shirt and a good edge jumps out at you:).

Sometimes, after the dye, some bumps may appear that are remedied with the sponge. Burnish again.

I have gotten away from the glycerin bar soap, beeswax, and/or paraffin for the most part. If a certain piece is stuborn, I may resort to beeswax:).