Members RoosterShooter Posted April 25, 2014 Members Report Posted April 25, 2014 (edited) I've been making leather holsters for awhile, and have come to the conclusion that holster finishes don't belong on pouches, purses, and wallets, and visa versa. So, I have a molded leather possibles pouch that was made using veg-tan 5/6 oz. leather. I wish for it to keep as much of it's form as possible, but want it to have an oiled leather appearance. I thought about using 100% Neatsfoot oil and Angelus Lustre Cream, but I don't want it to lose it's rigidity. How should I go about keeping the rigid form, have a nice natural leather appearance, and make it soft to the feel? Thanks. Edited April 25, 2014 by RoosterShooter Quote
Members Dwight Posted April 26, 2014 Members Report Posted April 26, 2014 You very well describe my cell phone case, . . . 50/50 beeswax and nfo, . . . boiled together in a crock pot (actually in a jar in a crock pot of water). Rigid, . . . kinda shiney, . . . yet soft feeling. It's actually my favorite finish, . . . May God bless, Dwight Quote
Members RoosterShooter Posted April 26, 2014 Author Members Report Posted April 26, 2014 (edited) Dwight ... how do I apply the 50/50 beeswax and neetsfoot oil? Hand rub? I have an abundant supply of free beeswax! I raise bees and use it for anything from candles, bullet lube, and waxing zippers! Do you happen to have a pic of the case so I can see the color of the finish? Thanks Edited April 26, 2014 by RoosterShooter Quote
Members Dwight Posted April 26, 2014 Members Report Posted April 26, 2014 If you make it right, . . . it comes out looking and feeling a lot like Kiwi shoe polish, . . . just a tad harder. Use it just like you would the shoe polish. I start with pouring the mixture into muffin papers in a muffin tin, . . . makes little cakes of the stuff. I rub a cake on the project, . . . "lightly" hit it with low setting on a heat gun, . . . oil sinks in / wax flattens out, . . . play with it a while, . . . you'll get the hang of it. You can also up the ante with a tad more nfo, . . . I lucked out once on a batch, . . . it was softer and easier to use, . . . but would melt if it got very warm. I keep bees too, . . . but mine haven't done anything for the last couple of years, . . . hoping it changes this year, . . . I love honey, . . . and it is just too expensive to buy all I want. May God bless, Dwight Quote
Members iknowshaun Posted April 29, 2014 Members Report Posted April 29, 2014 Wow, I really like the idea of using alot of beeswax in the finish. I was wondering Dwight, have you found that finishing with too much wax has any affect on using something like dubbin or nfo at a later date, like it makes the leather too impermeable or too hard? Cheers Shaun Quote
Members Dwight Posted April 29, 2014 Members Report Posted April 29, 2014 Wow, I really like the idea of using alot of beeswax in the finish. I was wondering Dwight, have you found that finishing with too much wax has any affect on using something like dubbin or nfo at a later date, like it makes the leather too impermeable or too hard? Cheers Shaun Actually, the answer I would have to give you is "NO", . . . simply because I use either some brisk rubbing or a heat gun on low setting when I apply the wax (especially for touch ups later on), . . . and the heat or friction just "makes' it work. The fact that it is totally repairable at some later date, . . . for some reasonable need, . . . was what drew me to it in the first place. May God bless, Dwight Quote
Members iknowshaun Posted April 29, 2014 Members Report Posted April 29, 2014 Awesome, thank you. Cheers Shaun Quote
Members RoosterShooter Posted April 29, 2014 Author Members Report Posted April 29, 2014 Well ... he's another twist to the question. If I were to go with a different type of leather would I be better off? Like maybe a Chromexel or Latigo Retan Veg ? Quote
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