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They have a couple different weights 5-7 and 7-9 just curious what you guys use for your holsters probably for a full size 1911? I just wanna play with some horse and this seemed like a good way to start.

Thanks,

Eric

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Use the 7-9 unless you want to line it.

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Horsehide is considerably more dense than cowhide. This provides equal strength with less bulk, as well as greater resistance to moisture infiltration. These attributes make horsehide a good choice for use in holsters when bulk and moisture resistance are considerations (particularly IWB-style and shoulder holsters).

There is a learning curve to overcome. When you start working with horsehide you will find that some methods that work well with cowhide will not work the same with horsehide. In the shop we routinely soak holsters in water for forming, and cowhide usually requires only a few seconds of immersion (about 1 second per "ounce" of leather weight is typical) to become sufficiently pliable for initial forming. Horsehide holsters can require soaking in water for 30 minutes or more before they can be formed, and the heavier pieces of horsehide can remain very firm and a bit difficult to work even after longer immersion. The application of some heat during the forming process can help to make the horsehide form more easily (about 105 to 110F while the horsehide is wet seems to be about right).

Generally speaking, my experience has been that horsehide of about 2 "ounces" less weight will provide results comparable to cowhide of about 2 "ounces" greater weight. Also, the horsehide products are usually more firm and rigid after forming. Each "ounce" in leather weight equates to approx. 1/64" thickness, so a reduction of 2 "ounces" on each side of a holster is about 1/16" in overall thickness (bulk reduction), or about 1/2 the thickness of an 8-oz. piece of cowhide.

The weight of leather selected for a holster can be different for various holster styles and for different handguns. Larger and heavier handguns will usually benefit from thicker and stronger leather in the holster body, while smaller and lighter handguns can be supported by lighter weights of leather.

I would suggest that you start off with a small quantity of both weights. After doing a few projects with each you will have a better feel for which would be most suitable for a given project. If you are ordering the horse butts you will find that the thicknesses will vary considerably in each piece, with the center sections generally being at or close to the stated weight and the ends and edges usually thinner. Selecting specific portions to lay out your patterns can allow you to make use of most of the leather for different needs.

We generally use horsehide of about 5/6 oz. for most IWB-style holsters and find the results to be good. A couple of belts that I made with two layers of the same weight horsehide about 4 years ago continue to wear like iron.

There never seems to be enough good quality horsehide to reliably get all that we might like to have. Only one North American tannery produces veg-tanned horsehide (Horweens) and most of the production is dedicated to the shoe making trade, baseballs, and others. Since adding horsehide products several years ago I have found it best to place orders well in advance of when I expect to run low, otherwise there could be extended periods during which I could not produce orders as received. I have generally limited the use of horsehide to IWB-style and shoulder holsters largely for this reason.

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Thanks for the great responses so far folks!!

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Sweet Lord! 7-9 oz. horsehide would be a bear to cut! I only use 6 - 7 oz. on my IWB holster with a 3 oz. cowhide liner. I can't imagine trying to wet mold a 7-9 oz. horse holster that is line with a 6 - 7 oz. piece of horse. Talking about some strong hands and determination. :D I buy all of my horse fresh from Horween, and I can't imagine if it were laying around for a few months.

Edited by RoosterShooter

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