Setting Rivets In A Small Pouch

[MrLentz]

Hello,

I am making a few small cases that need to be riveted on the sides. The cases are pretty small so my rivet machine (the heritage foot press from Weaver) wont get into that small of a hole. It will work great for bigger bags - but these small things just wont fit.

Anyone have a great tool idea or option for setting rivets inside small bags or pouches? I am using double capped rivets, but I guess it doesn't matter if the inside doesn't turn out pretty.

Thanks!

Edited July 2, 2014 by MrLentz

[RavenAus]

A small anvil, or even a bit of bar stock, will do it but you'll have to do it with a hand setter. I sometimes use an old plane iron to rivet areas like that, or for setting a snap I've unaccountably forgotten... Just make sure the leather is resting on a solid nsurface and there's nothing underneath that will mar the outer finish when you hit the top.

[cgleathercraft]

had the same issue once. I wont do it again without using some bar stock like RavenAus said.

I used a tack hammer that had a flat top as a base on the inside of the case. resting the handle on the floor and doing a balancing act to keep it all lined up to keep the rivet post from going sideways. It worked but was a long and tedious process that ended with a couple of smashed fingers.

Edit: In a pinch its interesting what you can do with limited tools. I'm sure that someone with some knowledge of tool making could make a press to do this exact task.

The worst part was that the customer cut off contact so I was left with a finished product and nothing to do with it. (cigarette case and I don't smoke)

Edited July 2, 2014 by cgleathercraft

[silverwingit]

+1 on the bar stock. I do this all the time with my harmonica cases. I had the local iron yard cut me an 18" length of 1"x3/4" bar stock (I actually have several lengths of different size bar stock -- I use the biggest I can fit in a given space to increase the mass as much as possible). I use c-clamps to fix a length to my work bench, leaving only the minimum amount of "overhang" to allow me to insert the bar into the given space. Since you are essentially pounding against a spring, anything to minimize the "springiness" is good. You always want as solid anvil as possible.

It's worth noting that I keep an 18" length of 1"x3" cold rolled steel bar on my bench at all times. It's a very handy anvil for setting rivets, snaps, etc., marking stitch holes with a pricking iron and so on in spots using hand setters/tools where my hand press won't fit. Use it constantly!

Thanks,

Michelle

[MrLentz]

The bar stock is definitely an option - I was just hoping for something more like a hand press, or hand tool like a modified set of pliers. I know they have something like this for a wrench but the mouth is too small.

[silverwingit]

I've seen rivet press "pliers" at hobby stores. They are very limited in their application though. The ones I've seen have such short "throats" as to make them useless for making cases or boxes. Also, the longer the throat, the longer the "moment arm" of the lever effect. Simple hinged pliers wouldn't have sufficient clamping force. You'd need some sort of compound mechanism.

While you continue your search for the perfect hand tool, I will have set dozens of rivets with my chunk of bar stock.

Michelle

[Dwight]

I had some cases some time back, . . . and I made a yellow pine insert for each one, . . . just the size for the inside, . . . but not too snug.

I then added 1/16th inch by 1 inch flat stock steel pieces where the rivets would be set.

I used a stick and grabber to stick the rivet in the hole, . . . slid in the insert, . . . set it on another piece of leather, . . . capped and whacked the rivet.

Worked perfectly.

May God bless,

Dwight

[MrLentz]

Thanks for the ideas everyone!