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Revolver Holster Questions

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Am I missing something?

Really asking in reference to conceal carry. Unless the holster comes up above the top of the cylinder, there is no retention to speak of (compared to a semi auto). But it seems to me that coming above the cylinder would really mess up a draw and re holster. What I mean is that the leather above the cylinder giving retention would get in the way of smooth draw and re holstering Especially when carrying inside the waist band.

I am beginning to think a thumb break is the only other option? And have really considered telling people I don't do revolvers, but don't want to do that.

Really could use some pointers. I don't want to sell things I am not happy with and so far I just aint happy with my revolver holsters. I don't carry a revolver so I keep asking question to people that do, but there insight is not from a builders perspective...........that's where you come in (I hope).

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I also do not make a lot of holsters for revolvers, . . . few of my customers have or carry them.

I couldn't quickly find any other pictures but these two, . . . one of course is a cowboy rig (Duke rig to be specific) and it shows how deep I generally do my revolver holsters.

The second one was for a cowboy out west who had a revolver, . . . just like mine, . . . but a shorter barrel. He uses his single action .45LC for concealed carry, . . . in a pancake style, . . . with a thumb break.

Personally, . . . I like the old style clam shell holster for small revolvers, . . . when I carry my Colt Det. Spec, . . . it is in a clam shell.

May God bless,

Dwight

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Deleted my initial response here. I'm gonna 'wait n see' with this one. But here's the fraction of my post that remained........

'Retention" is not about creating a 'catch' somewhere on the weapon. Keep in mind that many LW people aren't holster makers (and because someone has folded a piece of leather and sewn it, does not make a 'holster maker'). And someone making a comment (including me) followed by 8 er 10 people saying "yeah, what HE said" does not make it true...

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I wear revolvers daily. Usually a Ruger SP101.

I make my holsters with a hammer guard front and back. I like the retention. If I could stand on my head, my revolver will stay in the holster.

Reholstering is no problem. I practice a lot. I have been involved with carrying handguns off an on professionally and privately for almost 40 years.

I recommend buying a revolver and carry concealed with whatever design you come up with.

I do not carry IWB but I have included a photo of a holster that can be worn IWB or OWB by attaching the straps to the holster with screws.

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I don't build many concealed carry holsters for revolvers, the few I have done were paddle holsters with retention screws for J framed sized pistols. These have worked well according to those that have used them. My design is based pretty close to a Don Hume holster a guy brought in.

I do build lots of western holsters for single action pistols and retention isn't an issue as long as you make the holster to fit.

If you do want to build revolver holsters look at some that people use and like then try to use those designs as a starting point. Lots of good revolver holsters out there to get inspiration from. If you don't want to build them then don't, my list of things I don't or won't build continues to grow as I realize what I am willing to mess around with and what I really don't want to bother with.

Good luck, Josh

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You said ... [ Especially when carrying inside the waist band. ] ... so one assumes you're talking IWB. Belt tension will provide all the retention you need. Stay away from that pancake desigjn, install a stiffener in your mouthband, either metal or polymer. Use pull-dot snaps. Google "summer special for revolver" and you'll find pics. If you want the fat roll protector incorporate that into you design. You don't need thumb breaks or retention straps for adequate retention. I don't have a photo handy, but there were lots of them when I googled - all based on the late Bruce Nelson's Summer Special.

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Josh that's an excellent rig, looks good too. The first time I saw that design was circe 1965, by Bucheimer. I don't know if you put stiffeners in there but the original Bucheimers had heavy pieces of wire that create some spring tension ... anyway, Nice Work!

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I guess I'll throw my two cents worth in. I am a retired federal agent, Instructor at the Federal Law Enforcement Training Center, Firearms Instructor, and holster maker for myself and others who carry for a living for over 30 years. Two things: First, when your mind accepts the fact that things are really bad enough to pull your gun, you will not feel the little bit of resistance that comes from a molded holster.

Second, if you are not a law enforcement officer and things are not calmed down to the point that you can use both hands to put your weapon back in its holster, re-holstering is not something you should be worried about!

If you are a LEO, you have been taught and practiced the techniques that go with re-holstering when making an arrest. I read the question as regarding a citizen with a CCW and I don't believe that re-holstering is a huge priority. When the cavalry arrives you will undoubtedly be directed to place your weapon on the ground and step away. After things are sorted out, there will be plenty of time to safely re-holster.

For what it's worth...

Mike

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Excellent comments and pointers. I am making two for one gun right now and am going to bring the leather up over the cylinder and see how it works out.

Seems like every time I conquer obstacles, someone throws another in the way. I think the learning curves will never go away.

thanks again

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I have had great luck just building them like pretty much the same as my semi-auto styles. I will add that as a pistol instructor, I am a stickler for just the right amount of retention. The draw must be smooth and fast but the gun must stay in during daily activities and simulated hand to hand/grappling.

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There are some "tricks" in providing tension. As a long time competitor in Cowboy Action Shooting, IDPA, IPSC, and others, you can build a holster using certain points to retain the handgun. Would you think this has retention? Sure it does. You can run hell bent for leather and the revolver will not come out. But it does not look it, huh?

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Retention is not about molding behind the cylinder. Retention is about building a suitably tight holster. And that goes back to getting the stitch lines in tight, and molded to all the right curves. That said, I find revolvers to have slightly less retention than semis. Mainly because I do all flat back holsters and the revolver simply is not flat. Not that it has no retention, just less retention because the main contact on the back side is just the cylinder. If you make a more standard style holster, then there is probably equal contact front and back. I've had no complaints doing them flat on the back though.

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This is 4.5 lbs of S&W 500 that had to be pulled out. I put the strap on it because he mentioned riding 4 wheelers with it, but it was plenty snug.

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I agree about the stitch line being key to retention. I also find that the molding gives the maker additional control of retention. Be careful about molding above the cylinder as it gets tight real fast. I like the trigger gaurd molding to give me the click in and our feel.

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Another way to think about it is that retention means that there is less volume in the holster initial than that of the gun. You want to be putting a slightly larger object into a slightly smaller space. At that point friction takes over and retains the gun,some of the detailed boning can add to that friction, but most of it should come from a good slightly tight fit. To do that you have to get those stitches in close or the holster will open up too much. It will always open up some, just the nature of leather breaking in, but if the stitch line is too wide it will open up out to the widest point where it is not stitched/glued.

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Chief, that works to a point. The SASS leather guys never mold (Mernickle, Kirkpatrick, Red Cent :) ). The flat sided "pocket" will almost always exert pressure on the cylinder (just on the edge) and, to some degree, on the tip of the barrel. Most of us never store the gun in the holster. Some will place a tennis ball in the mouth of the holster to retain the big hole for re-holstering on the move. But that's another story.

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Mike Craw's post above is outstanding advice that should be read and read again until it is completely understood.

So many of the things that people obsess about are so far down the list of priorities that they are essentially meaningless. A large part of the holster making business is providing sound advice to customers and, when necessary, injecting a dose of reality.

By the way, about 60% of my holster orders are for revolvers. Those makers who believe that revolvers are outdated, or otherwise unworthy of consideration, are just helping to build a market niche for other makers.

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Have not been able to post as i have not gotten internet at our new place yet and i just dont like surfing on the phone. Another week or so before i get internet.

Several outstanding comments. I am just getting to where i can know whether or not to be confident in my more regular holsters. Seems like new uncertainties withe the revolver. Will see if i cAn get a pi. Of a revol er i have been working on.post-23581-0-48848200-1424743476_thumb.j

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Finally back to having internet.

Was not happy with the above pic, so made some changes to it and it was a pair that was ordered.

Happier with these revolver holsters than any so far, only done 3 I think though.

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That photographs well. Is that tool chest drawer liner, maybe?

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Finally back to having internet.

Was not happy with the above pic, so made some changes to it and it was a pair that was ordered.

Happier with these revolver holsters than any so far, only done 3 I think though.

Quite honestly, . . . constructive notes, . . . if you wear either of these daily for 2 months, . . . the gun will probably fall out of either of them when you lean back in your recliner.

The artwork is good, . . . stitches are definitely passable, . . . and while the molding is more than I prefer, . . . it's good.

Where you missed it is the single most important part, . . . your stitch lines are in Mississippi, . . . the gun is in Alabama. Tighten those stitches all the way up to the edge of the molding.

If you don't, . . . because the holsters are outside the waist band, . . . there is nothing to "hold them steady", . . . the butt of the gun will rock back and forth as you walk, turn, sit, or otherwise move. It will waller out the excess you left and make it more of a bag than a holster.

But, . . . this is the fun of learning a new craft. You are on your way, . . . looking good so far, . . . just tighten em up.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited by Dwight

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I think they look pretty good. I don't think these will fail do to the stitching being too loose because you are nice and tight at the trigger guard at the top of the holster and along the bottom of the barrel. They may start to allow the gun to sit too deep because you do have some extra room there. Things to improve on would be to tighten up the stitching to follow the contour of the gun better and the main thing I saw is your edges. Not sure how you are finishing edges now but they look like they could use the most work to me.

All in all pretty nice work, keep it up.

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yeah, I altered the stitch line ever so slightly after the one with the clip but see what you mean by bringing up the one under the trigger guard. the elusive stitch line is always the challenge. I don't "think" they will losen up that much but I have the one that I re did and plan on using it on the ranch with snake shot in it and will certainly watch with interest how it does.

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Red, would you be willing to take a picture of that holster from the backside please? That things looks awfully interesting.

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