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What Is Best Surface Material For Hole Punching On Bench.

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Hi,

as the title says What is best surface material for hole punching on the bench.I have used plastic/nylon kitchen chopping boards which are ruining the sharp edges on my punches,

I have used the green self heal cutting boards too but they do not heal from punch holes and that ruins the boards and both things can work out quite expensive.

Would appreciate all and any advice from those who know,

many thanks

JJ.

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We have these pounding boards that are about 2" thick. When they get all scarred up I take the belt sander to them. But I usually put a piece of scrap leather down first ,it helps keep my work from getting marked up and helps keep my punches in a little better shape.

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Check out your local rubber supplier and ask for red sheet. It is a high density rubber that will give you long life(12 yrs and counting) and clean cuts. I am still using 2 sq.ft. that I bought 12 years ago, and no dull tools.

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Check out your local rubber supplier and ask for red sheet. It is a high density rubber that will give you long life(12 yrs and counting) and clean cuts. I am still using 2 sq.ft. that I bought 12 years ago, and no dull tools.

Theres some of this stuff at the place I work and when I saw it I thought it would be good.

I use an oak board I made with a poly cutting board on it and a couple pieces of scrap leather on top of that when i use my chisels.

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I've used the black 'poundo' stuff Tandy sells; white-in fact several colors-of 'poly' cutting boards; a chunk of that reddish board several places claim is the backing surface for clickers and other presses; and (several species of) wood. Truthfully, the best surface I've found is any of those aforementioned covered with a thick piece of scrap saddle skirting (12-14 oz or thicker). There is no doubt as to when the 'surface' is shot/wasted/ruined and needs replacing, it doesn't mark or pattern and I got a bag of it (about 20 pounds) for cheap.

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The only surface that does not dull the cutting edges of punches is lead. This metal is solid enough to ensure a clean hole but soft enough to provide little resistance to the punch. With practice one can feel when the punch is through the leather. I make my lead punching pad by melting down lead roof flashing or any other scrap lead eg fishing "sinkers". This is then poured into a round or rectangular metal saucepan or such to the depth of approx 15mm(1/2"). When one side is too badly pock marked, flip it over and use the reverse side. This will last for months and when needed, just melt it down again for a new, smooth surface.

Warning only melt down lead in the open - I use an old camping stove.

Guaranteed that your punches will stay sharper for longer. Can also be used for strap end punches etc.

Cheers, Lois

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The only surface that does not dull the cutting edges of punches is lead. This metal is solid enough to ensure a clean hole but soft enough to provide little resistance to the punch. With practice one can feel when the punch is through the leather. I make my lead punching pad by melting down lead roof flashing or any other scrap lead eg fishing "sinkers". This is then poured into a round or rectangular metal saucepan or such to the depth of approx 15mm(1/2"). When one side is too badly pock marked, flip it over and use the reverse side. This will last for months and when needed, just melt it down again for a new, smooth surface.

Warning only melt down lead in the open - I use an old camping stove.

Guaranteed that your punches will stay sharper for longer. Can also be used for strap end punches etc.

Cheers, Lois

I'm sorry but using a toxic substance like lead for such a simple task is just silly

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Yes, according to 'Leatherwork - a Practical Guide' by Chris Taylor the best & traditional base or surface for punching holes in leather is lead. Say 6" diameter or square, and about 1" thick. He gives advice on making one.

Sometimes you see such blocks on Ebay.

Unfortunately I haven't used such a block, but I have made one. I left the block and the old pan in my back yard for a couple of hours to cool while I had my dinner, and someone stole it!

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Just for grins I looked up sources for lead online and found the attached information. Cheaper than I thought, less than $32.00 for a 6" diameter x 1" thick disc. Of course you have to pay shipping and it is heavy as lead!

post-60051-0-55458400-1430572894_thumb.j

Edited by Tugadude

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Another vote here for end grain wood. You can probably check at Home Depot, or Lowes , and ask for the scrap pieces from their lumber section. Just cut them uniformly glue well and clamp together. Or if that isn't available, a single pine stud is typically less than $5. The end grain of wood will spread around the punch instead of coming out in plugs, so you'll have good longevity, and once you have the 'board' glued up, you can mount it to another surface for more mass. While it may not be as protective for the punch as lead, I'd rather sharpen punches a little more often than deal with the lead exposure. Or need to go through the "This product contains lead...." hassle with paperwork, regulations, etc.

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Hi,

as the title says What is best surface material for hole punching on the bench.I have used plastic/nylon kitchen chopping boards which are ruining the sharp edges on my punches,

I have used the green self heal cutting boards too but they do not heal from punch holes and that ruins the boards and both things can work out quite expensive.

Would appreciate all and any advice from those who know,

many thanks

JJ.

I just use a piece of 10-12 oz leather...don't have to worry about dulling anything :)

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anyone use brass for punching surface?

wood end grain? any wood works?

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THANKS ALL,

Some really great advice and solutions there,

will try and get hold some of the clicker press back board,the lead sounds a good idea but I would have to buy from a scrap dealer or similar so I wont use that one,

I will keep all the suggestions in mind and work thru them till I find what suits me best.

MANY THANKS FOLKS

JJ.

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I use a very thick piece of hard veg tanned leather as a backing piece for punches etc on top of my bench.. works a treat and will not damage your tool edges.

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I use a piece of HDPP, 1" thick high density polypropalene, in red. I have had it for about 5 or 6 years works great.

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I'm sorry but using a toxic substance like lead for such a simple task is just silly

Sort of. There are ways to work with it safely. 1. Spray it with urethane so it doesn't oxidize to white dust, which is dangerous. Respray when you've whacked holes in it. 2. Wear nitrile gloves or wash your hands immediately. 3. Wash and dry your irons and punches often. They can take it. You're sharpening them frequently anyway. 4. Keep it in a shallow tupperware and handle that, not the lead itself.

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Sort of. There are ways to work with it safely. 1. Spray it with urethane so it doesn't oxidize to white dust, which is dangerous. Respray when you've whacked holes in it. 2. Wear nitrile gloves or wash your hands immediately. 3. Wash and dry your irons and punches often. They can take it. You're sharpening them frequently anyway. 4. Keep it in a shallow tupperware and handle that, not the lead itself.

You can't be serious :-)

Use modern techniques, a bit of thick leather, a chopping board, an lump of end grain instead of all that mucking about

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On 5/2/2015 at 9:41 PM, Fowlingpiece said:

I have always used lead. Will continue.

It's hard to argue with this logic.  No wait, it isn't:

 

Quote

Lead Poisoning By Organ System:

Lead affects every one of the body's organ systems, especially the nervous system, but also the bones and teeth, the kidneys, and the cardiovascular, immune, and reproductive systems.[42] Hearing loss and tooth decay have been linked to lead exposure,[43] as have cataracts.[44] Intrauterine and neonatal lead exposure promote tooth decay.

 

Wonder how things have gone for the last couple years....

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I use the end grain of a cedar 4"X6" post. It gives plenty of support, yet soft enough to prevent damage to a punch.

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I cannot see how using anything apart from another piece of leather can be good for keeping a sharp edge

Leather as a back stop brings the punch to a controlled stop gently, all the others Poly, wood or Lead have little give and certainly less than leather. Run your knife over a poly board and how far does it go in the same with lead and wood, yet it cuts through leather with the same force, so to me leather makes the best stop and the easiest to renew

Then again maybe i'm missing something

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On 3/22/2018 at 3:25 AM, chrisash said:

I cannot see how using anything apart from another piece of leather can be good for keeping a sharp edge

Leather as a back stop brings the punch to a controlled stop gently, all the others Poly, wood or Lead have little give and certainly less than leather. Run your knife over a poly board and how far does it go in the same with lead and wood, yet it cuts through leather with the same force, so to me leather makes the best stop and the easiest to renew

Then again maybe i'm missing something

The lead is softer than you think it is, and does make for a good backstop. That being said, lead is a very dangerous material and I wouldn't recommend it for use anywhere other than bullets and fishing sinkers. Considering the toxicity of a number of other products we work with, it would seem to me a better idea to try and reduce our exposure and not use toxic metals.

Scrap leather does a fine job, and is a by-product of the project you just made so it's not like you have to go out of your way to get more. If one layer isn't thick enough, use several.

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Lead is going to be absorbed into the leather project if it comes in contact with a lead block.  That means anyone handling the project afterwards will be coming in contact with the contaminants. Lead exposure occurs through inhalation, ingestion and absorption through the skin.  Children and pregnant women are at higher risk then men, but lead can accumulate and be stored in your body for up to 30 years.  Using a lead block when punching holes is likely to only be a minor exposure concern, however, if you do enough of it, over time you could end up with a significant chronic lead exposure.  After spending 30 years in the hazardous materials consulting field, I would discourage using a lead block as a base for leather working.

IMO, a softwood stump, or better yet a soft hardwood stump, such as a large diameter piece of aspen firewood, placed on end, with a piece of heavy leather on top of it is the best choice. 

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Since I no longer had a lead block I used an old magazine as a temporary measure, and it worked very well. That was years ago, and I'm still doing it. I just replace them when they get worn

Edited by zuludog

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