Pfaff 335 Timing Issue

[alpine luddite]

hi,

I wanted to ask for some suggestions on getting my machine up and running.

I just bought a brand new Pfaff 335, it's a cylinder arm machine. I'm setting it up as a dedicated binder for work on custom backpacks. I set up the machine this past week once it arrived and as normal walking foot it was fine. I installed the dedicated binder parts. i immediately broke a needle and now my needle hits the bobbin hook. the Pfaff manuals are not that helpful in this regard . So I'm wondering if any one else has some experience with this machine.

FYI>using #20, #22 needles, #69 & 92 thread. i mainly sew heavy nylon fabrics and webbing. all my leather sewing (lash patches and leather bottoms) I do on my Consew 206.

While this is my first posting to the forum on this site, I have been an avid reader and used the info here for setting up my own leather die cutting for my custom packs. I reproduce packs from 60's and 70's and made replica dies for the leather. my website : www.alpineluddites.com

Thanks

JC

Edited August 2, 2015 by alpine luddite

[Hockeymender]

Having two 335 machines the first thing I check is the needle/hook timing. Also check that the needle bar height is correct for the needles you are using. Also, when making these checks set the stitch length to the setting you will be using. I'm guessing you have installed binder feet.....make sure those are properly seated, and the needle passes thru the needle holes correctly. Those are the things I would start with. Others may have some ideas as well. BTW, the 335 is a great binding machine, been using mine for years with very little trouble.

[DrmCa]

If this happened to me, I would go back to the standard foot set and check slowly turning the wheel by hand if the machine stitches. If it does, then something in the binder set caused the needle to break.

Believe you or not, I could have easily broke a needle after installing the last welting foot set from eBay's Jimtally, as it had a rock chip stuck in the inside foot's needle hole. Turning the machine by hand I felt that it stopped as soon as the needle was level with the inside foot.

[alpine luddite]

Having two 335 machines the first thing I check is the needle/hook timing. Also check that the needle bar height is correct for the needles you are using. Also, when making these checks set the stitch length to the setting you will be using. I'm guessing you have installed binder feet.....make sure those are properly seated, and the needle passes thru the needle holes correctly. Those are the things I would start with. Others may have some ideas as well. BTW, the 335 is a great binding machine, been using mine for years with very little trouble.

Hi Joe,

thanks for the reply. How do i adjust the hook/needle timing? the manual doesn't make this clear. i'll double check the binder feet as well but they don't affect the needle length perse. needle goes through the hole with no problem. but i can see the needle hitting the hook.

Thanks again.

jc

[Hockeymender]

Pull off the end cap that surrounds the hook. Remove the throat plate. On the base of the hook there is a collar with two screws in it. Now it really helps if you have a set of gauges at this point, but that said, those two screws need to be loosened so the hook can be moved on it's shaft. Turn the balance wheel to move the needle bar to bottom dead center, and then raise it about 2mm (that number is variable). At this point you want to move the point of the hook to the center of the needle scarf. Re-tighten the screws on the hook shaft while keeping the hook in that sweet spot mentioned above, replace the throat plate then the end cap and thread the machine. If it's done right, the needle will pick up the bobbin thread when you cycle it thru (I always do that by hand after timing the machine). I'm sure this is all clear as mud, but it really is not that difficult to do. Hope this helps!

[alpine luddite]

Pull off the end cap that surrounds the hook. Remove the throat plate. On the base of the hook there is a collar with two screws in it. Now it really helps if you have a set of gauges at this point, but that said, those two screws need to be loosened so the hook can be moved on it's shaft. Turn the balance wheel to move the needle bar to bottom dead center, and then raise it about 2mm (that number is variable). At this point you want to move the point of the hook to the center of the needle scarf. Re-tighten the screws on the hook shaft while keeping the hook in that sweet spot mentioned above, replace the throat plate then the end cap and thread the machine. If it's done right, the needle will pick up the bobbin thread when you cycle it thru (I always do that by hand after timing the machine). I'm sure this is all clear as mud, but it really is not that difficult to do. Hope this helps!

thanks Joe.

[Cobra Steve]

Hello JC, when adding binding material you are adding extra thickness to whatever you are sewing. You may have to go to a #23 needle. If the machine works fine on regular sewing, but not when using the binder, then check the binder thoroughly when mounting it on your machine.