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David

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Beautiful work David as always. One question about the seat building process, is it normal practice to put the finish on after the seat is assembled?

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Boy, that came out great Dave! Beautiful job as I always expect from you.

Art

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Beautiful work David as always. One question about the seat building process, is it normal practice to put the finish on after the seat is assembled?

Kustomezer,

I'm not sure what "normal" practice is since I'm a totally self taught seat builder. I do it this way for a couple reasons. Once leather has been dyed, the leather becomes very stiff. This would make it very difficult for me to lace it together. I pull my edge lacing very tight and stiff "sharp" edges on holes and edge of the leather would not be a good thing for me. Secondly and most importantly. Dyeing is a wet process, and the last thing I want is for the leathers to shrink.

Thanks for taking a look,

Dave Theobald

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Looks Great as always!

How was that evo to carve? Tight in the fin area?

I got a customer that wants a Shovelhead motor on his seat.

I love Shovelheads so it'll make it more fun for me.

Here's a picture of my Bobber i just finished , I won 1st place in the Bobber Class at the Southwest Veterans Bike show a couple of months ago.

Oil tank, Rear fender, chain guard, oil filter/license plate bracket all brass grips,pegs,brake and shift levers, 2 inch stainless steel exhaust pipes with brass and stainless baffles, and custom leather seat all hand made by me.

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Edited by Sawyer

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just a couple more pics

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Tom,

It was very tight to carve the fins. Just go slow and don't rush it. It will look great. Let me know if you find a line drawing of shovelhead. I've been looking for one.

Beautiful ride. Very impressive list of hand made pieces to and they all look great. Congrats on the win at the Southwest Veterans Bike show. It was well deserved.

I see there is carving on the seat. Is it a seat you have shown here before?

The seat in this thread is a Fab Kevin seat pan and is the HEAVIEST pan I've ever been given to work with. The pan was work of art all by its self.

Thanks for checking out the seat.

Dave Theobald

Edited by David

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here's a pic of the seat, it was on here about a year ago.

this is the 1st seat i ever did, i needed one for the bobber and thought i made pretty much of the parts anyway, i might as well try the seat too.

Thanks for the tips.

I'll keep my eyes open for a shovelhead pic

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Thanks David for the reply. Makes sense to finish it after it's assembled. I have tons to learn and it helps so much to hear how people who have been doing it for awhile have done it, thanks!

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Very Nice work David! :You_Rock_Emoticon:

As an Aspiring Leather worker and Tattoo artist, it is always nice to see a Master at work.

I always learn so much.

One question, With all the holes dose the seat act as a sponge after it rains?

Thanks,

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Very Nice work David! :You_Rock_Emoticon:

As an Aspiring Leather worker and Tattoo artist, it is always nice to see a Master at work.

I always learn so much.

One question, With all the holes dose the seat act as a sponge after it rains?

Thanks,

Greybeard,

I use closed cell foam, the stuff they use in boat seats and lawn furniture. It does not retain water.

Thanks for looking

Dave

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What type of adhesive do you use? If any?

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What type of adhesive do you use? If any?

There is no adhesive in the seat at all.

Dave Theobald

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dave your work is incredibly inspiring . one question for you, are the top and bottom leather pieces the same length and width in size on this seat.

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dave your work is incredibly inspiring . one question for you, are the top and bottom leather pieces the same length and width in size on this seat.

The top and bottom are not even close to being the same size. I've uploaded a pic of the leathers for this seat.

Dave Theobald

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Edited by David

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The top and bottom are not even close to being the same size. I've uploaded a pic of the leathers for this seat.

Dave Theobald

that is what i thought the top looks smaller but how do you get the holes to line up? i thought of making the top piece with the holes spaced properley and then putting it on a copy machine and inlarg it a few percent . i dont usually cover the bottom of the pan ,i just braid a border to the top and bend and mold it over. i tryed doing with a leather bottom and it just wouldent line up ,but the top was the smaller piece. any help,input or ideas would be greatley appreciated,

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I create a top leather with all the holes punched and a bottom leather with just two holes punched on the centerline at the front and rear of the leather.

Then I tie the front to the rear using only those two holes on the centerline and with the pan and padding sandwiched in between. Now I can pull the two leathers together and mark the rear leather for all the other holes.

It is a slow but effective method.

Dave

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I create a top leather with all the holes punched and a bottom leather with just two holes punched on the centerline at the front and rear of the leather.

Then I tie the front to the rear using only those two holes on the centerline and with the pan and padding sandwiched in between. Now I can pull the two leathers together and mark the rear leather for all the other holes.

It is a slow but effective method.

Dave

thanks for all your help Dave, Chain

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My customer just sent me a couple shots of his bike at the Easyriders Bike Show in Sacramento this past weekend.

Dave

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The seat is scrumptious. Nuf said.

:You_Rock_Emoticon::You_Rock_Emoticon::You_Rock_Emoticon:

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Nice to see it on the final project. Did the customer mention how he did at the show?

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Perfect ending to a perfect project! Thanks for your insight and guidance Dave! You are an inspiration...

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Perfect ending to a perfect project! Thanks for your insight and guidance Dave! You are an inspiration...

Thanks Troy,

I always love it when a customer sends pics of his bike to me. Not too many do it so it is a real pleasant surprise. I'm also not sure how he did at the show, but I like how the tan seat makes the whole bike pop! If that seat were black, I think the entire bike would be pretty ho hum.

Dave Theobald

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That's really a work of art. Thanks for sharing it step by step. What font did you use?

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Glad you like the finish MadMax, it is a combination of medium brown, saddle tan and sheridan paste antiquing. I like the color and hope the customer does too.

That is Leather Balm with atom wax that I use. I've never had it pull up like you describe. The only thing I have noticed is that it has a tendency to turn to a whitish powder after a year or so on a bike. Some saddle soap and a scrubbing with a toothbrush followed by Aussie cream seem to do the trick and freshen the seat up.

I used Lexol on the seat prior to antiquing and really like the even finish it gives to the project. I didn't get any antiquing splotches as can sometimes happen.

Thanks for taking a look at the project.

Dave Theobald

Dave,

I dig this topic, and I'd like to ask you a question.

On the seat I was working on, I finish the toling, and use the following products (in this order): Hi-Lite Stain Saddle Tan; Saddle Tan Gel Antique; Mink Oil, Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax.

What I notice is that the mink oil really darkened the entire project, turning uselles all the high lights doned.

My questions are:

1) Do lexol has the same effect (darkening the leather)?

2) The Atom wax doesn´t really waterproof the leather, I will try Pecard´s Leather Dressing. Is it a good choice?

Thanks for all the help that you can offer.

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Dave,

I dig this topic, and I'd like to ask you a question.

On the seat I was working on, I finish the toling, and use the following products (in this order): Hi-Lite Stain Saddle Tan; Saddle Tan Gel Antique; Mink Oil, Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax.

What I notice is that the mink oil really darkened the entire project, turning uselles all the high lights doned.

My questions are:

1) Do lexol has the same effect (darkening the leather)?

2) The Atom wax doesn´t really waterproof the leather, I will try Pecard´s Leather Dressing. Is it a good choice?

Thanks for all the help that you can offer.

Amaral,

Any kind of oil will darken leather. Mink oil, neetsfoot oil, or Lexol they will all darken the leather.

As far as water PROOFING.... I don't think anything makes the leather impervious to water. Except for NeatLac, but I hate that stuff. It can crack and peal off. All of the products you mentioned are better than nothing. Pecards is as good as any, I use Aussie Conditioner which is very similar to Pecards.

As far as you staining products that you mention, I can't speak to them, most are the EcoFlow stuff that Tandy makes and I don't use it.

Hope this helps.

Dave Theobald

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