Cut Out For Cylinder Arm

[rosiart]

Would someone be able to tell me the standard size of the U shaped cut out on a flat table to accommodate a cylinder arm machine?

Thanks.

[TinkerTailor]

Other than the footprint the machine base bolts to, the bolt pattern of which is machine specific, I think cylinder arm machine table shape is open ground. How much space do you need around the arm, and how much room do you need to put things down? The U shape is just a clearance cutout in a standard table to allow an operator to swing bags and things around the arm and still have a spot for a coffee cup.....without needing to buy a new table. The sewing mechanic whacked it out with a jigsaw, and finished the edge (maybe). Be careful if you do this yourself to ensure your table is still going to be structurally sound. Table design varies, and cutting out the chunk could jeopardize the strength, depending on what style of table you are looking AT.

Look at the cobra/cowboy/techsew heavy stitcher tables, they have the arm just hanging out into thin air on a single post mount.

I have seen quite a few tables for cylinder arms made by moving the left leg of a standard table 2-3 feet to the right and chopping off the left half of the table. This leaves the pedals hanging out to the left under the freed up cylinder. There is a thread called "Anyone built their own industrial table?" Look at the pics in there. There are quite a few examples to look at.

Also look at some of the threads the user "Uwe" has made, he does some pretty cool cylinder arm tables and attachments. He sells some too.

[Uwe]

I've come across some dimensioned CAD drawings in various manuals. The attached example of a table with a U-shaped cutout is from a Pfaff 335 manual (the view is of the underside of the table). Interestingly it has no dimensions for the actual cutout (approx. 11" wide and 12" deep) or how far the machine sits from the edge of the cutout. There are no hard rules for the overall shape or size and the actual mounting hole pattern will vary by machine, as TinkerTaylor said (thanks for the shout-out :-) This is as good a starting point as any for making your own table.

I had downloaded a manual for an Adler 669 machine simply because it had nice drawings of the table options:

I personally really like this convertible option where the left side folds down and out of the way when not in use:

[rosiart]

Thanks TT. I am thinking that the table is solid enough ( 1.5 inches plywood) to make the normal size cutout without losing structural strength. There doesn't appear to be anything added to the standard commercial ones to make them stronger after they have made the cutout but maybe there is?

Thanks Uwe, for the plans and also the size of the cutout. Your convertible option looks good but for the moment I have to look at altering what I have.

[mmike956]

I've been pondering the same dilemma with a table I'm preparing for a 154W101. I honestly think I'll just stay with a non cut out table top and see how it goes. As I kicked around a few ideas on the subject I've come to the conclusion that if I needed a cut out I'd just move the machine to the left edge of the table with the arm overhanging the edge or make a new table half the size with control pedal out board to the left. Once I get a table project done I'll post some pictures. I also have a 153W102 that I haven't mounted yet. Maybe I can throw together a half size table for that one. It's a lot of trouble building a table versus buying one ready for the job, but I am a welder, fabricator, so I'm compelled to build it myself unless I stumble up on another free sewing table. I can't wait on that to happen again so we already know what to do.

[coryleif]

I just eyeballed it when I made my table. Depends on what you'll be sewing, really. Wish I would've made a li'l more room under the hook, though. Next time...